'01 cobra advice needed

Sethalot

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I'm thinking of putting some money into my low mileage cobra and looking for advice. The goal is a solid 500hp that is dead reliable, my budget is 8k. So the question is can it be done and how should i go about doing it?
 

mustangvsix

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Probably a KB supercharger/vortech or something of the likes and possible internal upgrades to match for 500rwhp without a concern of going boom.
 

shurur

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Probably a KB supercharger/vortech or something of the likes and possible internal upgrades to match for 500rwhp without a concern of going boom.

procharger..but I too think you'd be pushing it at 500 RWHP with non-forged OEM internals....like a time bomb.. you might be ok at 450+ RWHP at maybe 8#...but I've heard 8# is pressing your luck...
 

mustangvsix

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procharger..but I too think you'd be pushing it at 500 RWHP with non-forged OEM internals....like a time bomb.. you might be ok at 450+ RWHP at maybe 8#...but I've heard 8# is pressing your luck...

agreed, pretty much what the standard #'s seem to be for the 01's internals.
 

qwik01cobra

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With a stock bottom end it's not gonna happen for 8k unless u can build it yourself and buy a used blower/turbo set up
 

Sethalot

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I figured FI would be the only reasonable way. You really cant get a built shortblock and supercharger for less than 8k? That seems a little backwards considering you can buy a coyote crate engine for just under 7. For the people who are making decent power what transmission are you running?
 

qwik01cobra

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I built my short block myself for $2000 and I run a novi 2000 @ 15psi and make 640hp on race gas through a t56

Cost me about 8-9k to build it all myself in my garage.
 

Sethalot

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Now if you were to lower your sights to 350-370 RWHP NA.......

The car already has the normal bolt-ons CAI, longtubes, O/R X pipe, underdrive pulleys, diablo tuner only thing missing is a throttle body swap and I would never pay 1300 for a set of cams. I would be inclined to laugh at someone who would blow 8k on a 370 horse NA motor.
 

shurur

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The car already has the normal bolt-ons CAI, longtubes, O/R X pipe, underdrive pulleys, diablo tuner only thing missing is a throttle body swap and I would never pay 1300 for a set of cams. I would be inclined to laugh at someone who would blow 8k on a 370 horse NA motor.

But the cams are what is going to get you more power for now...or boost a time-bomb...maybe 6# would make you happy until you go forged internals??...

But for 500 RWHP like folks are saying a forged build first..or maybe pick up an MMR short block for now?? or buy a kit, from them and build it yourself...I wrestled with the whole procharger thing until I saw all the preliminary build needed to be safe. $8k is a nice budget. Maybe someone will have a path for you tomorrow. I wish I knew more..sorry.
 

Sethalot

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sorry I didn't mean to come off like a jerk shurur, I just think its kinda sad how much engineering when into these engines for the amount of power you can get out of one. Im more accustomed to pushrod engines where a stroker kit, aluminum heads, and a healthy cam is all you need to make decent power NA. On the older engines that stuff is cheap compared to these modulars. I get that the cams are going to produce a little more power but 1300 is more than im willing to pay for maybe 30 hp.
 

Slowerthnyou99

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The car already has the normal bolt-ons CAI, longtubes, O/R X pipe, underdrive pulleys, diablo tuner only thing missing is a throttle body swap and I would never pay 1300 for a set of cams. I would be inclined to laugh at someone who would blow 8k on a 370 horse NA motor.


No offense but, if all of this was bought new, you spent a pretty penny for 20ish hp, cant really blame the cams being expensive there are 4 compared to other engine design.... Throttle body is probably waste of money until you start moving some serious air. If 8K is your budget I say get a forged short block, you state your car is low mileage so you should be able to just move all your stuff over. And find a centri to bolt on....

My first vote is still there, short block MMR 5, and a nice fogger, with the money you save you could throw a good tranny in there and do some gears. They clame 40hp/tq alone with just the .4 L. :rockon:
 

01yellercobra

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I figured FI would be the only reasonable way. You really cant get a built shortblock and supercharger for less than 8k? That seems a little backwards considering you can buy a coyote crate engine for just under 7. For the people who are making decent power what transmission are you running?

And with the Coyote motor you still have the powder metal rods and hyperpathetic pistons. So it's still a time bomb. How low is your mileage? I put a blower on my stock motor at around 60K and it was healthy. I put about 5K on it and the motor blew three pistons getting on the freeway one day going to work. And I wasn't even in boost. That was about 12psi and a very conservative tune.

You can probably find a blower kit and shortblock for less then 8K. But that's not what kills your budget. It's all the little things like needing a bigger MAF, bigger fuel system, etc. Then finding out your current clutch doesn't like the power level and lets go.

As for the transmission, what are your plans for the car? I ran a 3650 for a long time with a motor making around 550rwhp. But it never saw the track and I didn't do high rpm clutch dumps. I have a T-56 now, but that's mostly because I found a screaming deal on it.
 
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shurur

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Oh, then you sell your old short block and get some funds back.:beer:

AND an extra $1000 on the MMR stroker gets you the 5.3L (3.7 bore X 3.75 stroke) from the MMR 5L stroker..(3.54X3.75)..you will gain ~65# with the iron block...but you'll have a FI on the front anyway..
 

pbeechner

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Like others have said, buy an MMR shortblock, or a rotating assembly for even cheaper if you want to build it yourself...

You can get one to handle 700hp for around $3000.

Then throw either an eaton swap or a centrifugal blower on it.

Then get a budget fuel system or full system from lethal performance depending on how much is left in your budget after the eaton swap.

After that, your only barrier will be the stock transmission.
 

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