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@Coach D I’m not seeing any PM?

Deleted one picture (stereo picture), added two more. Also added mod list, I may missed one or two things.

Got one in Southern MS. Let me know if you're interested or would like more/different pictures sent. -Jordan

Sold

Yes they are. I found one on FB marketplace.

I removed the Mach system and did a 5 channel amp with touchscreen head unit, going to a 10" JL Stealth box. Looks factory and sounds great. I did have to make custom tweeter mounts for the mach tweeter location though.

Mine was doing the same. It was scary and I could feel my IRS swaying left and right...felt like a wheel was about to fall off. I had the rear wheel bearings replaced, fixed my problems. I had a dealer do it because I didn't have a press at the house.

I bought the car with what I believe is a Spec Stage 2 w/26 spline. It's a good clutch and holds...however the pedal is super stiff. If my seat didn't have a backrest to push against, I couldn't drive it.

Drivers side > Passenger side when it comes to "catch cans". Passenger side pulls air from the intake into the crankcase. It 'exhausts' out the drivers side, where the catch can is needed more.

Junkyard for tail lights because they are all the same, new OEM for headlights. I tried the knock off "OEM" style and they lasted a few months before turning yellow and rubber deteriorating. Actual OEM has been on for a few years and still look great. I don't mind tinted taillights, but if the...

I will disagree with you on that. More surface area does mean better grip, but a larger circumference will change moment about the crank. Therefore increasing 'pressure' on the crank. Will this hurt anything on a street car, probably not.

I bought the car with, I believe, a Spec 2+ clutch. It's hard to justify a $1000 McLeod setup though, just because my current clutch is 'stiff'. I think I would enjoy driving more with a less stiff clutch. It seems I have to brace myself before each shift. Just judging from feel and experience...

My clutch is stiff as heck. If there was no back rest on the seat, I couldn't drive it due to the pressure. Sometimes a 6R80 seems like a lovely mod. Overall, its great though relatively speaking. I just upgraded the sound system to all kicker and JL 10" sub. About 800w and it sounds perfect...

I will say, just because you put on a different alternator pulley size, that will not bulletproof the alternator. I would always be weary of these "stock" alternators. Anytime it dips below 12.8v while driving, start saving money.

I've had a 6lb lower with a 3.5 Upper Whipple for about 50k miles. No problems.

Agreed. Who knows, there could be no specs of metal in there and it could be the tensioner. What's the asking price? A decent bottom end rebuild could be $1500-$5000 depending on parts and things of that nature.

I knew the gauge would obviously not work, just didn't know if that would inhibit the data log. Good to know, thanks.

Is it required to have an A/F gauge? I have the Aeroforce interceptor gauge that plugs into the OBD II. Once the tuner is plugged in instead of the Aeroforce gauges, wouldn't it render the A/F gauge useless?

You'll get 100s of opinions on this. Some say let it idle for awhile, others say start it and rev it to seat the rings. I would follow the opinion of a reputable engine manufacturer/builder that have built hundreds of engines versus the guy who has built one in his garage and had success. That...

That is a very vague problem to diagnose over the internet. With that being said, I would suggest taking off each wheel and inspecting all suspension components. To your sway bar links...they are supposed to be tightened/adjusted with the weight of the car on them. Only clunks I've dealt with...

I have a Pioneer unit, I don't remember what model...my only complaint is there is no volume "knob", its a touch button.

Not sure what you're looking to buy or who will get it rebuilt, but I have the Mechman 170a with big 3 upgrade for almost 2 years (5k miles). It never dips below like 13.8 even with my 1000w system and ac running.

First few drives after it felt completely different. Felt more stuck to the ground, and wheel hop was significantly reduced. However, after having the kit for two years. I don't notice anything, I guess I'm just used to it now.

That is personal preference. On 91-93 octane I'd run 9.0 - 9.5, on E85 I'd run 10-10.5.

I run a Mechman 170a with 3 wire upgrade and Dual GT pumps, dual FPDM's, 1000w amp with a 10" sub. With all accessories running, I never dip below 14v.