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Good point on the TR6s, I run the BR7EF plugs for the same reason - no projected tip. I've also had better luck with the factory coils. If you have the downtime I would highly recommend doing some legwork before throwin the turbo kit on a tired 100,000 mile engine. It will leave you some room...

Unless you have spun a bearing or broken something there is no need for a new rotating assembly (other than maybe pistons). Not familiar with the MMR 800 set-up but if it already has a forged crank, rods, and pistons with a standard bore block then my rebuild would be: New crank and rod...

Unless you'll be installing a turbo in the future, I don't see it as worth it.

Is that paraffin build-up? What is the preferred way to decrease the pressure/flow if you are pushing past the seal?

In my case no. The piece of the block on the passenger side that holds the the pressed in pin that the chain guide pivots on broke. I've only heard of it happening to a handful of people with iron blocks. Anyways I made that my excuse for an avalanche of upgrades.

Most affordable build that covers the basics: Block prep (machine shop) - - Simple hone, no overbore unless you need to, of so then .020 over with torque plates - Check to make sure the deck is square - If the main bearings look to be in good shape, you may not need to align hone the mains...

couldn't tell ya. Were you able to identify them?

The width difference between 2 tire of the same size will be minuscule. Compound, tread pattern and tire pressure will be the only real factors in traction. You'll likely be able to try them both since they won't last more than ~10k miles, so don't overthink it and start practicing your launch.

Have you changed you gas cap yet? It's like $8 and will most likely clear both of those codes since they go hand in hand. Yes you can turn off the EGR in the tune, I made a block off plate at the plenum and capped the header when I deleted mine. I wouldn't go colder than 180deg on the...

CG Fab makes great stuff, no doubt. At least the last time that I looked into it though, you still have to piece together their hot side with your own BOV's, WG, silicone tubing, intercooler, cold side piping, oil feed and drain lines, bung for oil pan, radiator pipe (to not melt the rubber...

Nice work man, very thorough with some very good info and tips

Also, even after a couple dry hops the tires were warmed up and sticky, didn't need to do a smoke show.

Mickey Thompson ET Street SS here too, 305/35/18. I was impressed with how good they stick for a thin sidewall street radial. That beign said I took the car out once when it had just started raining and the oils were first coming out of the asphalt and it wanted to loop out on me. Comparing...

I personally don't see the benefit of twins on the street. Twice the piping, WG's, turbo's, etc. I make ~8 lbs of boost by 3500rpm with an 0.96 A/R housing. Lag is not an issue if you have the right size A/R. This is on a billet wheel 67mm PTE turbo. And you're right about giving the car a...

Good to hear they think it'll clean. After they get it back together ask them what the rod side clearance is (between the rods or rod to crank shoulder) should around 0.010 in. I believe spec is 0.005in to 0.019in max. My only concern would be with losing material from where the rods were...

If it's not short shifting on you then there's no sense in trying to make it hold a gear by manually shifting it.

5 spd car from a roll Auto from a dig if you can launch. Stomp off and let us know what happens!

nice work, keep it up!

You can datalog your fuel pump voltage to see if anything is awry there, but it sounds like it's time for a proper custom tune, the gains and driveability increase are well worth it. I've used LaSota Racing with great success. He'll have you send him a data log under different loads and will...

Not a bad recipe above from tt335ci. Also, custom cams don't cost that much more than a set off the shelf, and they can spec exactly for what your goals are.

Ouch. I hope they do something for you, but after a year be ready for some hassles. Interesting that it lasted so long without showing signs sooner. Never any excessive noise once warm? Or trash in your oil?

I'm nearly certain it's the same pump @Coosawjack

You can't adjust the valves in these motors, but you should thoroughly check the heads first before re-ringing it. Check for leaks, cracks, straightness, broken springs / valve stems. You could also freshen them up by tearing them down, clean off the carbon, lap the valves in and install new...

Sounds like you might have shut it down before it could do too much damage. Best case is a rod journal and you get your crank turned 0.010 under on the damaged journal(s) and run oversized bearings and possibly replace the rod. With limited carnage I would not be looking into a swap. Odd that...

Call the manufacturer of your gears. I just received a 4v pump with Boundary billet gears in the mail the other day. I'll see what the paperwork says. I know for sure it has the clearances. I can't (won't) open the pump to measure the gears tho as it will void the warranty tho - sorry.