If I spent more time @ the track, 4.10's would be the logical choice.
For street driving, 3.73's just feel right..
For street driving, 3.73's just feel right..
3.73 vs. 4.10
- Thread starter biminiLX
- Start date
I am running 3.73 with the mods listed below.
I am good for what I do with the 3.73s, but 4.10s seem the no brainer for any kind of competition.
I am running 285/55R20 Toyo Proxies on the rear.
Very good tire.
I am good for what I do with the 3.73s, but 4.10s seem the no brainer for any kind of competition.
I am running 285/55R20 Toyo Proxies on the rear.
Very good tire.
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What do you mean? What do you recommend 4.10 or 3.73?
I think 3.73 for mostly street with occasional drag will be ok in the T56 mag with 2.97 first gear.
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Sorry my post was confusing. 3.73s great for the street. I would definitely go 4.10s if I spent time on the track.
The OP asked for "Real World" experiences / input ! Sorry if you didn't like my reply to this thread on 373s vs 410............And yes (as I posted ) ...on my Factory Five Cobra 1st gear IS SPENT w/in ONE second in close to full throttle ! On a stock Tremic T-5)and...YOU... have a good day !
PS...Rear end gearing does Not care WHAT car it's pushing
Also a 67 Chevelle SS/396 is close to the weight of a GT-500
And don't bother replying,Ive owned muscle cars LONG before you were born .
Arent you a peach? Congrats on contributing absolutely 0 to this thread. No one cares about a FF Cobra and the rear end it has because it bears 0 relevance to the topic.
On the 2.97 1st trans cars 3.73s are more than enough if you plan to be in the 800+ range. As you add power, you need less and less gear (there is a point of diminishing returns, obviously).
My 07 gt500 had 3.73s installed and it was a blast.. it was making ~650whp. However, i would have been happy with more gear as well at that power level.
I love the 373's with my combo...704 lb. ft. @ 3200 rpm...27.6'' tire height.
That said...the only 4.10 vehicle I've owned and lived with on the street (for 4 years) ...was a 72 Corvette coupe with a Hurst shifted 4 speed... with a genuine 1970 Corvette LT-1 bought and installed by me. Had an optional Chevrolet "off road" nasty solid lifter cam. Gotta say - that car was a lot of fun. 11:1 compression and everything that went along with it.
BTW - my 2013 GT500 - 373's are whisper quiet. Amongst the most silent of any vehicle I've owned (probably the most silent). I run Amsoil everywhere in the car...but the 373's were whisper quiet before the Amsoil.
That said...the only 4.10 vehicle I've owned and lived with on the street (for 4 years) ...was a 72 Corvette coupe with a Hurst shifted 4 speed... with a genuine 1970 Corvette LT-1 bought and installed by me. Had an optional Chevrolet "off road" nasty solid lifter cam. Gotta say - that car was a lot of fun. 11:1 compression and everything that went along with it.
BTW - my 2013 GT500 - 373's are whisper quiet. Amongst the most silent of any vehicle I've owned (probably the most silent). I run Amsoil everywhere in the car...but the 373's were whisper quiet before the Amsoil.
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Older thread but the point is that rear gears are by far one of the best mods on a GT500. 3.73 or 4.10. Your choice really depends on your rear tire, your power and last the year of Shelby (‘13-14 guys have a trans with 2.66 first and 0.50 sixth, so 4.10 is a better choice for most 5.8 owners)
C’mon spring!
-J
C’mon spring!
-J
So what is the rear built with currently?
-J
I’m currently running stock rear. I have an additional 8.8 with 9” welded that I will suit up with a 33 spline TruTrak and strange axles. The military just got me way to busy to continue progress.
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Ok we can walk thru this.
Your goal is drag racing?
Is your motor built? Cams?
Do you have an ET/MPH goal?
Can you closely estimate your weight and power?
For drag racing you should be just as interested in the trap gearing.
My car was quicker and faster with 4.10s down to the low 10s.
Google ‘Wallace racing calculators’ and play around.
-J
Your goal is drag racing?
Is your motor built? Cams?
Do you have an ET/MPH goal?
Can you closely estimate your weight and power?
For drag racing you should be just as interested in the trap gearing.
My car was quicker and faster with 4.10s down to the low 10s.
Google ‘Wallace racing calculators’ and play around.
-J
Goal was 1/8 mile or 1/4 mile. They just closed the track closer to home so not I’m just for show at the car meets and so, lol.
Still want to setup my car for mostly drag racing but I have to keep it some how street for the time been.
Long tubes 168 KB TB with XBA Elbow. No pulley yet. Maybe 600 or 630 whp. Dyno soon at event on the 24 Apr.
Rear wheel and tires will be 20x13 with 345/30/R20 pilot cup 2
And drag setup will be 15x13 with something like 28 x 14.50-15
Last I scaled the car it was 3,800 lbs with 1/4 tank of fuel.
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Still want to setup my car for mostly drag racing but I have to keep it some how street for the time been.
Long tubes 168 KB TB with XBA Elbow. No pulley yet. Maybe 600 or 630 whp. Dyno soon at event on the 24 Apr.
Rear wheel and tires will be 20x13 with 345/30/R20 pilot cup 2
And drag setup will be 15x13 with something like 28 x 14.50-15
Last I scaled the car it was 3,800 lbs with 1/4 tank of fuel.
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I’d still say you’ll be faster with 4.10s but if you actually try to use 1st gear on the street.
Like I mentioned the calculators do help.
-J
Like I mentioned the calculators do help.
-J
I’ll see how it works with the 2.97 T56 Magnum XL.
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