Waiting for the solenoid for the line lock to come in so you can install it all at once.
Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread
- Thread starter Black Gold 380R
- Start date
Waiting for the solenoid for the line lock to come in so you can install it all at once.
Yes sir! The line lock came in today. Going to install the plumbing this weekend.
Great come back sir....
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Woo Hoo! Engine builder just called and said my engine is ready for pickup. I am busy today and tomorrow. So, I'll be getting it on Saturday morning.
I'm going to drop it in the engine bay in order to do some mock up. Besides, it won't fit in my stocking or under the tree LMAO!!!
So, stay tuned for updated pictures next week.....
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I'm going to drop it in the engine bay in order to do some mock up. Besides, it won't fit in my stocking or under the tree LMAO!!!
So, stay tuned for updated pictures next week.....
..
Thank you @kazman. Really appreciate the recommendation. However, I'm not running fender emblems. The only emblems that will say 427 will be on my glovebox door and my taillight panel to replace the 347 emblems I have in those locations now.
So, I believe those emblems you showed may be a little too large for my glovebox door and taillight panel. I need something a little smaller or subtle. Therefore, the emblem I displayed above and these here are the ones I'm contemplating using in those two areas.
I really like these..... It would allow me to go with the old school style.
This is cool and I do have the Cobra (snake) emblem embroidered in my front seats and I have an 03 Cobra emblem on my battery tray.
I like these because my glovebox door is brushed aluminum and my taillight panel is black.
So, I believe those emblems you showed may be a little too large for my glovebox door and taillight panel. I need something a little smaller or subtle. Therefore, the emblem I displayed above and these here are the ones I'm contemplating using in those two areas.
I really like these..... It would allow me to go with the old school style.
This is cool and I do have the Cobra (snake) emblem embroidered in my front seats and I have an 03 Cobra emblem on my battery tray.
I like these because my glovebox door is brushed aluminum and my taillight panel is black.
Okay everyone,
I went to the machine shop Saturday morning. They opened at 0900. I was there at 0859 LOL. Picked up my engine and got my complete gasket kit at the same time (engine builder had everything, to my surprise).
I asked the engine builder "NOT" to paint the block as I want to custom paint it myself. That's why the block has surface rust on it.
Man, it's a bit of a chore getting the engine out of the back of my truck and then flipping it 180 degrees to get it into my garage. Then I needed to get the hoist angle just right so it would clear my garage door and my engine bay. Once I did all that, I had to call the wife out to the garage to help me lower the engine into place so I could install the motor mount bolts LOL.
The good news is..... I gotter done!
I started a little bit of mock up with my headers and I installed some valve covers just to keep the dirt and dust out (Think I'm going with a different style valve cover). I do not have a harmonic balance puller, so I'm going to borrow my brother's so I can remove the balance and get my timing chain cover put in place, again, to keep dirt and dust out (It's not shown, but I do have exposed engine parts covered in plastic).
I love all the ROOM in this engine bay with the shock towers removed...
Taking the engine out of the back of my truck. Engine builder wrapped it really well.
Got the engine on the stand to help me get the 180 degree flip done.
Ready to lower the engine into place.
Got it in place and put the valve covers on. I think they actually hit the rocker arm studs.
These are the headers that were on my 347. Engine builder said by going to a 351W block he didn't think they would fit. Driver's side fits great.....
Passenger side, not so well. IT needs to swing "OUT" to meet the head.
Problem is it is hitting my frame rail (And this is why we mock up LOL). So, my choices are to see if my fabricator can modify the header tube (as there is some room to "push" the tube in/over if he cuts a 1/4 inch or more out of it) or I notch my frame rail. Decisions....Decisions....
As mentioned above I think these valve covers are hitting my rocker arm studs. Here you can see a space between the head and valve cover. Obviously the gasket is not in and I could probably remove the baffle from the valve cover to get it to fit, but, honestly, I think I'm just going with a different design on this set up.
I went to the machine shop Saturday morning. They opened at 0900. I was there at 0859 LOL. Picked up my engine and got my complete gasket kit at the same time (engine builder had everything, to my surprise).
I asked the engine builder "NOT" to paint the block as I want to custom paint it myself. That's why the block has surface rust on it.
Man, it's a bit of a chore getting the engine out of the back of my truck and then flipping it 180 degrees to get it into my garage. Then I needed to get the hoist angle just right so it would clear my garage door and my engine bay. Once I did all that, I had to call the wife out to the garage to help me lower the engine into place so I could install the motor mount bolts LOL.
The good news is..... I gotter done!
I started a little bit of mock up with my headers and I installed some valve covers just to keep the dirt and dust out (Think I'm going with a different style valve cover). I do not have a harmonic balance puller, so I'm going to borrow my brother's so I can remove the balance and get my timing chain cover put in place, again, to keep dirt and dust out (It's not shown, but I do have exposed engine parts covered in plastic).
I love all the ROOM in this engine bay with the shock towers removed
...Taking the engine out of the back of my truck. Engine builder wrapped it really well.
Got the engine on the stand to help me get the 180 degree flip done.
Ready to lower the engine into place.
Got it in place and put the valve covers on. I think they actually hit the rocker arm studs.
These are the headers that were on my 347. Engine builder said by going to a 351W block he didn't think they would fit. Driver's side fits great.....
Passenger side, not so well. IT needs to swing "OUT" to meet the head.
Problem is it is hitting my frame rail (And this is why we mock up LOL). So, my choices are to see if my fabricator can modify the header tube (as there is some room to "push" the tube in/over if he cuts a 1/4 inch or more out of it) or I notch my frame rail. Decisions....Decisions....
As mentioned above I think these valve covers are hitting my rocker arm studs. Here you can see a space between the head and valve cover. Obviously the gasket is not in and I could probably remove the baffle from the valve cover to get it to fit, but, honestly, I think I'm just going with a different design on this set up.
I had to do some work on my step daughter's car on Sunday, but managed to get some work done on the 65.
I did plumb my line lock. I ordered one 90 degree fitting, but ended up needing two. I didn't like the way I originally had the inlet tube on the line lock. So, I took the 90 degree fitting off the bottom of the line lock and moved it to the top. Now, I need another 90 degree fitting to finish it off. However, it's about 95% completed now.
This is where I left off on the project last weekend.
I made a mounting bracket for the line lock solenoid.
Really got into the project, so I only took pictures of where I left off. I originally had a straight adapter in the top of the solenoid. This had me route the line up, over and then down to the Solenoid. I didn't like this as it would cause brake fluid to go "UP" above the MC and I felt it wouldn't flow properly. So, I installed the 90 degree fitting on top and re-routed the tubing. Therefore, the brake fluid will continue to flow in a downward motion now. I like this better.
You can see the line from the solenoid to the proportioning valve is in place. However, since I moved the 90 degree fitting to the top of the solenoid I need to order another one now. I did this last night. Should be here next week due to the Christmas holiday.
Here is a straight on shot of the top of the solenoid, so you can clearly see brake fluid will flow down (Note, the brake line is "NOT" touching the support tubing. You can see this in the third picture above).
I had some free time last night. So, I went back in the garage to mock up my front accessory drive. It's been almost 5 years since I messed with this and I needed to figure out where all the bolts went. I got a few of them mixed up at first, but I ended up figuring it out. Now to get the harmonic balancer off, so I can mock this up and see if it will fit on the 351W block...…. Remember this was originally on my 347 (302 block). So, I'm not sure if this will work on the taller deck 351W block.
I did plumb my line lock. I ordered one 90 degree fitting, but ended up needing two. I didn't like the way I originally had the inlet tube on the line lock. So, I took the 90 degree fitting off the bottom of the line lock and moved it to the top. Now, I need another 90 degree fitting to finish it off. However, it's about 95% completed now.
This is where I left off on the project last weekend.
I made a mounting bracket for the line lock solenoid.
Really got into the project, so I only took pictures of where I left off. I originally had a straight adapter in the top of the solenoid. This had me route the line up, over and then down to the Solenoid. I didn't like this as it would cause brake fluid to go "UP" above the MC and I felt it wouldn't flow properly. So, I installed the 90 degree fitting on top and re-routed the tubing. Therefore, the brake fluid will continue to flow in a downward motion now. I like this better.
You can see the line from the solenoid to the proportioning valve is in place. However, since I moved the 90 degree fitting to the top of the solenoid I need to order another one now. I did this last night. Should be here next week due to the Christmas holiday.
Here is a straight on shot of the top of the solenoid, so you can clearly see brake fluid will flow down (Note, the brake line is "NOT" touching the support tubing. You can see this in the third picture above).
I had some free time last night. So, I went back in the garage to mock up my front accessory drive. It's been almost 5 years since I messed with this and I needed to figure out where all the bolts went. I got a few of them mixed up at first, but I ended up figuring it out. Now to get the harmonic balancer off, so I can mock this up and see if it will fit on the 351W block...…. Remember this was originally on my 347 (302 block). So, I'm not sure if this will work on the taller deck 351W block.
Looks good, you always make nice progress. Part if me says to notch the frame to get the header to fit. As long as it's not a lot your taking out.
Thank you Grabber70Mach! Yeah, I'm always thinking about what I can do now/next on this project. When I'm not working on it I feel like I'm wasting time LOL.
My first thought was to notch the frame rail as well. However, I have not talked to my fabricator about this yet. He may advise it will be better (or may be easier) to notch the frame rail instead of modifying the header.
I'm going with EFI and a wide band gauge as well. Therefore, I will need my fabricator to install bungs in the header collectors. Also, these are my old headers and they have scratches from installation and removal during the last build. So, I will need to get them recoated anyway. So, I'm not opposed to modification of the header right now.
BTW: I say the driver's side header fits, but I have not mocked up my steering shaft yet. So, I may be putting the cart before the horse at this point LOL.
I "HAVE" found a set of headers made for a 351W swap in a 65 Mustang, but they are $700. I'm trying not incur that expense as much as possible
.
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I'd modify the header myself. Looks like there's room to pull that tube in to me.
I would much rather modify the header than the frame rail. The frame rail is an integral part of the car, the header can easily be replaced. Just my $0.02 cent worth and certainly not gospel.
I agree with both of you.
It will be easier for "me" to modify the frame rail, which is why it was my first thought. I'm not sure what my fabricator can do. Hell, he might even be able to rebuild the whole header LMAO!!! I've seen him make custom headers before. My concern is how much access he will have to that one tube to ensure he can weld completely around the tube to seal it without the other tube getting in his way.
I plan on going to talk to him this afternoon when I get off of work to see what his thoughts are.
Okay,
I went to talk to my fabricator after work yesterday. This was his point of view.
1. He said he could cut my header tubes and move then in order to make the header fit. However, he said I should mock up my steering to see if the Driver's side header truly fits as well. Then he said, by the time I factor in his fee for the modification to possibly both headers and then the cost of shipping (to the jet hot coater in Oklahoma) and the recoating of both my headers I will be in at just about the cost of a new set of headers.
2. His recommendation was for me to notch the frame rail. He said the amount I will have to notch it will be minimal and there should "not" be any problems.
After sleeping on it I realized I do not want to spend the money to modify my current headers and then have to get them recoated. I also do not want to cut my car up any more. Therefore, I have been doing a lot of research on this and I found a company called Doug's Headers who make a set of headers to fit my application.
So, I decided to go to the Doug's Header website and I pulled the trigger on a new set of headers. The good news is they were offering a 10% off holiday season sale. So, I was able to get them at the cheapest price possible.
This is the fitment chart. It checks all my boxes. 65 Mustang; Check..... 351W; Check..... Fits Mustang II front suspension; Check.... Manual Transmission with hydraulic clutch; Check.... So, I'm confident in my purchase.
I figured I've gone this far might as well keep rolling with the punches, so do it right...
Now to try and sell my old headers to recoup some of my money from the new headers....
I went to talk to my fabricator after work yesterday. This was his point of view.
1. He said he could cut my header tubes and move then in order to make the header fit. However, he said I should mock up my steering to see if the Driver's side header truly fits as well. Then he said, by the time I factor in his fee for the modification to possibly both headers and then the cost of shipping (to the jet hot coater in Oklahoma) and the recoating of both my headers I will be in at just about the cost of a new set of headers.
2. His recommendation was for me to notch the frame rail. He said the amount I will have to notch it will be minimal and there should "not" be any problems.
After sleeping on it I realized I do not want to spend the money to modify my current headers and then have to get them recoated. I also do not want to cut my car up any more. Therefore, I have been doing a lot of research on this and I found a company called Doug's Headers who make a set of headers to fit my application.
So, I decided to go to the Doug's Header website and I pulled the trigger on a new set of headers. The good news is they were offering a 10% off holiday season sale. So, I was able to get them at the cheapest price possible.
This is the fitment chart. It checks all my boxes. 65 Mustang; Check..... 351W; Check..... Fits Mustang II front suspension; Check.... Manual Transmission with hydraulic clutch; Check.... So, I'm confident in my purchase.
I figured I've gone this far might as well keep rolling with the punches, so do it right...
Now to try and sell my old headers to recoup some of my money from the new headers....
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Dougs are good quality too. I think you'll be happy.
I think you just made the best possible choice, congrats!
Speaking of rolling with the punches. I got the balancer puller from my brother and decided to mock up my front end last night. Well, the punches keep coming LOL. I kind of expected this going from a 302 block to a 351W block.
That additional deck height is great for power, but it throws a lot of other things off as well LOL. So, I need to purchase new alternator and P/S brackets. Already made the purchases last night. The good thing is my pulley's will still work. So, I just needed to buy the brackets. Found a March Performance P/S bracket, which is the system I had originally. I went with a cheaper alternator bracket, but the design matches my March pulley set up.
Here you can see the timing chain cover and water pump fit just fine.
Here I have the alternator and P/S pump mounted to the water pump side, but the head mounting side is not working.
Kind of looks good from this angle, but the 351W is just too wide for mounts designed for a 302.
Here you can see the bolt that mounts to the head is not lining up.
Here you can see the P/S pump outlet is in line with the head and needs to be pushed out further in order to clear.
I was watching a video on YouTube yesterday about the 351W block. Found out it has a code stamped into the block. My first four digits are E9AE. This means my block was manufactured in 1989, is a 351W and was meant for a truck.
That additional deck height is great for power, but it throws a lot of other things off as well LOL. So, I need to purchase new alternator and P/S brackets. Already made the purchases last night. The good thing is my pulley's will still work. So, I just needed to buy the brackets. Found a March Performance P/S bracket, which is the system I had originally. I went with a cheaper alternator bracket, but the design matches my March pulley set up.
Here you can see the timing chain cover and water pump fit just fine.
Here I have the alternator and P/S pump mounted to the water pump side, but the head mounting side is not working.
Kind of looks good from this angle, but the 351W is just too wide for mounts designed for a 302.
Here you can see the bolt that mounts to the head is not lining up.
Here you can see the P/S pump outlet is in line with the head and needs to be pushed out further in order to clear.
I was watching a video on YouTube yesterday about the 351W block. Found out it has a code stamped into the block. My first four digits are E9AE. This means my block was manufactured in 1989, is a 351W and was meant for a truck.
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Thank you both! I can always count on you two and @Grabber70Mach and @geoffmt and a couple others to provide constrictive feedback.
I appreciate the comment Bob. I had never heard of Doug's before. I've heard of Hooker, JBA, BBK, Headman, etc., but never Doug's. Come to find out the company that makes JBA also makes Doug's. I was VERY happy with my JBA. So, I think you're right, and I will be pleased with Doug's.
Thank you Bullitt448. I am wishy washy on some decisions, but I normally come around and do the right thing in the end LMAO! Especially with this build. It's not a show car, but I really don't want to take short cuts, if I can avoid them.
Thanks again guys. I always enjoy the feedback.
I remember running into similar issues when I went from the 302 to the 351 in my 70. As I was in high school I ended up using brackets off a van.
Lol, where there's a will there's a way brother.
I'm spending a little more than anticipated, but they always say, once you figure out your budget.... Double it!!! Lmao.....
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Okay everyone,
Made a little bit of progress over the Christmas weekend. I managed to get my Rack and Pinion mocked up. Everything fit perfect. Only one issue. I installed a Borgeson steering system in the car last go around. It required me to use a shorter steering shaft. So, now my double D steering shaft is too short for this set up. Also, being that my steering shaft/column is shorter I'm not sure a straight shaft will clear the header. So, I may need to install another joint to make it work.
I'll need to have some P/S hoses made, but the good thing is the rack is standard -6AN fittings. Also this rack is great. It's 2 and a 1/4 turn lock to lock.
Everything lines up and clears. Per MTF I purchased this oil pan from Canton to fit a 351W. It's tight, but clears.
Here you can see the shaft is short by a couple inches. I already have new stuff on the way.
Tie rod ends fit great. Per MTF I had to cut the rack ends by 1 inch on both sides.
Made a little bit of progress over the Christmas weekend. I managed to get my Rack and Pinion mocked up. Everything fit perfect. Only one issue. I installed a Borgeson steering system in the car last go around. It required me to use a shorter steering shaft. So, now my double D steering shaft is too short for this set up. Also, being that my steering shaft/column is shorter I'm not sure a straight shaft will clear the header. So, I may need to install another joint to make it work.
I'll need to have some P/S hoses made, but the good thing is the rack is standard -6AN fittings. Also this rack is great. It's 2 and a 1/4 turn lock to lock.
Everything lines up and clears. Per MTF I purchased this oil pan from Canton to fit a 351W. It's tight, but clears.
Here you can see the shaft is short by a couple inches. I already have new stuff on the way.
Tie rod ends fit great. Per MTF I had to cut the rack ends by 1 inch on both sides.
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