I need some technical help

Hello so if this is in the wrong place could a mod move it?

I have an issue with my Terminator swapped GT, I have the engine in and it is ready to fire. However im running into some sort of issue (wiring issue maybe?) Im using the GT ecu which has a base tune on it for the cobra engine and im using the GT wiring harness just modified.

So my issue is I have no spark, no injector pulse, and no rpm signal showing when I datalog a start which I believe they are all related. Im really not sure what the issue is here, I am using the crank sensor from my good running 2v engine. I can't remember if im using the cam sensor from my 2v or the one that came with my cobra engine. If anyone has any ideas im open to them. Thank you in advance for the help.

I think you answered your own question. You really need to use the sensors, harness and ecu from a cobra. That’s where I would start

toomanytoys said:

I think you answered your own question. You really need to use the sensors, harness and ecu from a cobra. That’s where I would start

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Unfortunately, it isn't that simple. I tried going that route but to use the cobra ecu and engine harness I would need to swap all of the rest of the harnesses in the car to the cobra ones. But from my research I have also found that pretty much everyone that has done this swap kept the GT ecu and harness, just modified the harness for the 4v. Also regarding the sensors, the part number is the same for both the sensors from the GT to the cobra.

The ECU doesn't know what engine it's controlling. Just like the engine doesn't know which ECU is controlling it. Did you open up the engine at all before installing it? If not I would make sure everything is plugged in and not pinched anywhere. If you did open it up how certain are you that you put the crank trigger wheel back on before you put the timing cover back on?

slo984now said:

The ECU doesn't know what engine it's controlling. Just like the engine doesn't know which ECU is controlling it. Did you open up the engine at all before installing it? If not I would make sure everything is plugged in and not pinched anywhere. If you did open it up how certain are you that you put the crank trigger wheel back on before you put the timing cover back on?

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I did not open the engine before I put it in but I do know that the timing cover was off of it at one point. I thought maybe it might be the crank trigger wheel but im hoping that isn't the case, because what is the procedure for replacing that? I know the timing cover has to come off but can it be done in the car? The no rpm signal is making me think it might be that, or maybe im missing a ground somewhere or something stupid like that.

ImPhobia said:

I did not open the engine before I put it in but I do know that the timing cover was off of it at one point. I thought maybe it might be the crank trigger wheel but im hoping that isn't the case, because what is the procedure for replacing that? I know the timing cover has to come off but can it be done in the car? The no rpm signal is making me think it might be that, or maybe im missing a ground somewhere or something stupid like that.

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The lack of the RPM signal makes me think it's the trigger wheel to. You be able to pull the sensor and shine a flashlight in there to see if the wheel is in place. If it's there you might need to make sure it's facing the right way too.

Yes, you can pull the timing cover in the car. I did it on my 01 when I had to swap the tensioners. I unbolted the valve covers and left them in place. I just lifted them up to remove the timing cover and put it back in place.

You can simulate ring and swipe metal across sensor to send a signal

Wiring diagrams. Full pc version
Will guide you. It will show different colors and pin locations on connector splice and ground locations.

All of your answers

Could it be pats? Theft light flashing?

slo984now said:

The lack of the RPM signal makes me think it's the trigger wheel to. You be able to pull the sensor and shine a flashlight in there to see if the wheel is in place. If it's there you might need to make sure it's facing the right way too.

Yes, you can pull the timing cover in the car. I did it on my 01 when I had to swap the tensioners. I unbolted the valve covers and left them in place. I just lifted them up to remove the timing cover and put it back in place.

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Ok I will check that soon because I think the a/c compressor has to come off to be able to get that sensor out. Before I do that I might just attach a multimeter to it and crank it to see what kind of voltage it is giving off because I can do that without pulling the sensor. Thank you for the info on pulling the cover, does that wheel just slide onto the crank?

Curt@injected said:

Could it be pats? Theft light flashing?

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I have PATS disabled in the base tune that I have. I have emailed VMP to make sure this isn't a tuning issue but I don't think it has anything to do with the tune or PATS.

Quick update, I found the pictures I was sent before I bought the engine. As you can see the crank trigger wheel is there, so unless something changed it should be in place and it looks in pretty good condition in the picture. Tomorrow im going to use a multimeter to measure what kind of voltage the crank sensor is putting out so I will update with that. I also swapped the cam sensor with the one from my 2v since they are the same part number and I know my 2v one is good.

New update, literally just tested the voltage from the crank position sensor. It had .334 resistance, and when cranking put out a reading of .01xx so it is reading something. The engine wasn't spinning crazy fast but that reading still seems a bit low. I tested the resistance on the cam position sensor as well which was about the same, right around .334 I might check that while cranking before I call it a day and if I do I will update with that reading.
Thank you everyone so far for your help.

Sorry for the double post, but I have another small update I want to make sure people see.

So I tested the crank position sensor voltage at the firewall connector for the engine harness, and it was the same 0.01xx and dropped down to 0.009 at some time. This time I put the battery charger on it to make sure it would crank fast. I also measured the voltage from the cam sensor, and it was in the proper range (it was 0.3-0.5) which afaik is in the correct range for the sensor. So my assumption is either something is wrong with the crank trigger wheel or the sensor is no good.

Cam sensor is only a volt and is generated after engine starts and wouldn’t stop it from starting. Po340 will be sent to pcm

Google

How to test ford 4,6/5,4 engine sensors with a multi meter.

I auto some thing link should show.

Here it will have step by step with pictures to follow.

hotcobra03 said:

Cam sensor is only a volt and is generated after engine starts and wouldn’t stop it from starting. Po340 will be sent to pcm

Google

How to test ford 4,6/5,4 engine sensors with a multi meter.

I auto some thing link should show.

Here it will have step by step with pictures to follow.

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That’s actually the same instructions I followed. Just instead of piercing the wires I measured from the sensor itself and the pins on the ecu plug by the firewall. I am going to partially tear it down tomorrow to get to get to the sensor and look through the hole and see if the trigger wheel is there and which way it is facing if there is something obviously wrong I’m going to get the timing cover off and change the wheel out with the one from my 2v since they are the same part and no local parts stores have it.

Does anyone know which way the teeth on the wheel are supposed to face? I believe it is supposed to face the timing cover but I want to be sure.

i'm having a real hard time understanding how that wheel could be bad. missing or improperly installed? sure. bad? unless it's bent or missing teeth or something, it can't be.

zredfire04 said:

i'm having a real hard time understanding how that wheel could be bad. missing or improperly installed? sure. bad? unless it's bent or missing teeth or something, it can't be.

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Honestly, I think it is on there but backwards. I know that the timing cover was off before I bought the engine, The tech might have put it on backwards. Maybe it is missing teeth but I doubt it. My guess is just improperly installed, I should have enough time to find out tomorrow. I just need to get a definitive answer on which way the teeth are supposed to face.

based on everything i've found on the ole interwebs, it looks like the teeth should point toward the front of the engine. the 1 tooth gap should be just clockwise from the woodruff key on the crank, if that helps (just in case it's a billet wheel or something).

even if the wheel is on backwards, you should still get a signal from the crank sensor.

Its been several years since ive had mine apart but i think the gear is held on by the balancer so it could easily have come off if the cover was off and it was moved around.

I also think its impossible to put the gear on backwards as i thought it gets into the chain.

cj428mach said:

Its been several years since ive had mine apart but i think the gear is held on by the balancer so it could easily have come off if the cover was off and it was moved around.

I also think its impossible to put the gear on backwards as i thought it gets into the chain.

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Weren't there a couple types of wheels? I remember one that had the teeth facing one way because of how it was stamped. That one will only go on one way. Then there was another that didn't have an offset to it. Maybe it could be installed backwards and not be lined up with the sensor.

Either way the wheel is keyed to the crank. Once it's on it should be timed correctly.