Lean cruise condition from stuff tied to fuel pressure sensor?

Hey guys, so my issue is that the previous owner of my car had an issue with a slight misfire/lean condition that pops the CEL for bank 1/2 lean, it only happens during partial throttle between 1500-3500, and also will sometimes hesitate to stay running after clutch is pressed/ gear is taken out.
I have went over every vacuum line I could possibly find and there are no leaks, I have cleaned the filter and the maf with no progress and have also ran some fuel system cleaner through the car.
Is it possible that too many vacuum lines are plumbed in with the fuel pressure sensor on the rail? It would make some sense to me if that was the issue, but I would like everybody's input, mods are as follows,
Vortech v-2 sq, e-trim according to the books, water to air intercooler
15psi at 7800rpms
60lb injectors
03-04 tank with duel pumps, kenne bell boost a pump
Built engine, .30 over 9.8-1 compression
Magnaflow exhaust
BBK 65mm throttle body

I have a hard time believing really any sensors could be bad due to there only being 24000 miles on the car and roughly 2000 on the engine. Car is an 01 cobra SVT by the way.

Who tuned it?

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And

slo984now said:

Who tuned it?

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C&M automotive in Hubertus, WI. I called and asked for a dyno sheet but they didn't keep records from that far back. He said he remembered the car and they had problems with it but he didn't say what, but also on the receipt it says they installed the injectors and the tank and pumps, along with the kenne bell boost a pump.
He claims there is no way that the tune could affect the lean condition because it's in closed loop during those conditions. But couldn't the base tables maybe be set leaner and cause it to throw a code when the computer tries to compensate?

If it helps when I watch the fuel trims on my scanner, the long term stays around 18 on both banks.

Spoolin B00ST said:

If it helps when I watch the fuel trims on my scanner, the long term stays around 18 on both banks.

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All the time, or just under the conditions that throw the lean code?

What is STFT doing?

I ran my BOV in the same line as my FRPS. I never had an issue with it. The STFT's can cause the CEL to pop if the MAF transfer is pretty far off. I've had that happen in the past while tuning.

Is the EGR still active? I had a similar issue where the car would buck and surge under light throttle. I ended up deleting the EGR.

I've never heard of those guys so I can't say one way or another on their ability. But if they claim they had problems and never fixed it I'd take it to a new tuner. They could've gotten tired of the car and moved on.

Also, I don't think I've ever heard anything good about the BBK throttle body. If you have a buddy with a stock throttle body see if they'll let you borrow it for a bit.

Are you really spinning it to 7800rpm?

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slo984now said:

I ran my BOV in the same line as my FRPS. I never had an issue with it. The STFT's can cause the CEL to pop if the MAF transfer is pretty far off. I've had that happen in the past while tuning.

Is the EGR still active? I had a similar issue where the car would buck and surge under light throttle. I ended up deleting the EGR.

I've never heard of those guys so I can't say one way or another on their ability. But if they claim they had problems and never fixed it I'd take it to a new tuner. They could've gotten tired of the car and moved on.

Also, I don't think I've ever heard anything good about the BBK throttle body. If you have a buddy with a stock throttle body see if they'll let you borrow it for a bit.

Are you really spinning it to 7800rpm?

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EGR is still active, a delete will have to come soon. If I just unplug the vacuum line will it still open up from the exhaust pressure? Then that will give me an excuse to reroute the bov line lol.
I just recently aquired the car and I love it and I really don't know what I should and shouldn't be doing with it lol. Redline is set like 78ish, I never think to look down at the actual tach in the cluster, the 5 inch one in car is like 300ish rpms off. I forgot to mention the car does have an aftermarket maf. The voltage for the maf at idle is .74-76 volts and 7.18-7.28 gm/sec according to the scanner at ~800 RPM idle

pdm said:

All the time, or just under the conditions that throw the lean code?

What is STFT doing?

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It seems to my knowledge that it only does it during city driving, so it must be when I go through the rev range.

At idle, full temp
LFtrim1 ranges between 2 and -2
Sftrim1 ranges between 3 and -3
Lftrim2 is 7 to 9
Sftrim2 is 5 to -4

During cruise
Full temp, 30 mph at 2000ish rpms
Both long terms sit around 23-25
Lftrim2 seemed to stay higher
Both shorts go from -2 to 8

Idle after cruise
LFtrim1 2 to -2
Sftrim1 -2 to 4
Lftrim2 switching between 8 and 9
Sftrim2 -4 to 4

On the way home I just hit a sweet spot at ~1700 rpms where it shoots the sftrim2 up to like 25 and the sftrim1 to 18ish

I forgot to ask, are you running a draw through or blow through MAF set up? You should be able to unplug the EGR solenoid as a temporary test. You'll get a code though. What are you using to datalog?

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slo984now said:

I forgot to ask, are you running a draw through or blow through MAF set up? You should be able to unplug the EGR solenoid as a temporary test. You'll get a code though. What are you using to datalog?

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It's a draw through, I don't remember the brand right off hand, if it's needed I can pop out the inner fender and read it.
All of my given data have been from the show data option from a snap-on scanner from like 2002ish. Lol. I have no way to modify the tune until I buy something, and I might as well get a wideband at the same time too.

If you have the interest you should look into tuning software. I've been tuning my cars since 2007. It's nice being able to make adjustments as needed.

First thing I'd do is swap to a blow through set up. It will run a lot better. And you can vent the BOV to atmosphere if you want.

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slo984now said:

If you have the interest you should look into tuning software. I've been tuning my cars since 2007. It's nice being able to make adjustments as needed.

First thing I'd do is swap to a blow through set up. It will run a lot better. And you can vent the BOV to atmosphere if you want.

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I was looking at the SCT tuners, I was more than likely going to get one of them and a wideband. I'll have to look into the blow through, that's what I had on my talon and it worked real nice. Thanks for all the info! I would just have to sink the maf into my existing pipes because everything is so crammed in the one side from the W/A intercooler and it would give me a use for my 50mm tial Q that's been laying around

Spoolin B00ST said:

I was looking at the SCT tuners, I was more than likely going to get one of them and a wideband. I'll have to look into the blow through, that's what I had on my talon and it worked real nice. Thanks for all the info! I would just have to sink the maf into my existing pipes because everything is so crammed in the one side from the W/A intercooler and it would give me a use for my 50mm tial Q that's been laying around

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You'd need the software as well as the hand held device. IMO the wideband is a requirement on any FI vehicle. I bought a flange from VMP Tuning and mounted it to one of my blower pipes. Kept things clean and worked pretty good.

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slo984now said:

You'd need the software as well as the hand held device. IMO the wideband is a requirement on any FI vehicle. I bought a flange from VMP Tuning and mounted it to one of my blower pipes. Kept things clean and worked pretty good.

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When you say and software, do you mean something I can extract the tune and actually change base fuel and spark maps?

Spoolin B00ST said:

When you say and software, do you mean something I can extract the tune and actually change base fuel and spark maps?

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Yes. The hand held device just stores the tune and transfers it from the computer to the car. If you want to actually adjust the tune itself you need software such as SCT Pro Racer.

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