Swapping aluminator

Riptide · Jul 7, 2017

I didn't realize we had this option now. Cool. A 2015 long block you can drop in a 11-14 car and it's pcm compatible. Just needs opg and cs then it's G2G? Nice.

SHIFTYBUSINESS · Jul 7, 2017

I pulled it in my garage. Took the hood off unbolted and unhooked everything jacked the car up on jack stands. I left the transmtransmission in the car. Take out the fans but you van leave the radiator in. Watch the ac compressor and the ground strap that is attached to the motor mount. I didn't discharge the ac just moved it aside. You can also leave the stock headers on, just disconnect at the collector.

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Famine · Jul 7, 2017

SHIFTYBUSINESS said:
I pulled it in my garage. Took the hood off unbolted and unhooked everything jacked the car up on jack stands. I left the transmtransmission in the car. Take out the fans but you van leave the radiator in. Watch the ac compressor and the ground strap that is attached to the motor mount. I didn't discharge the ac just moved it aside. You can also leave the stock headers on, just disconnect at the collector.

Sent from my SM-G935V using the svtperformance.com mobile app

I remember that ground really being on there during a header install if i recall correctly.

fishpick · Jul 7, 2017

I have never pulled a motor - like the OP - so you just rest the trans on a jackstand too? I would think you would need to be able to manipulate it some when the motor goes back in to align the shaft and bolt holes... no?

SHIFTYBUSINESS · Jul 7, 2017

Mine is a m6 car. Take out all of the bolts even the two very bottom ones. I used a small pry bar to carefully separate the engine from the trans while wiggling the engine that is free and slightly lifted. The trans will rest on a bar that is attached to the lower control arms, not sure what it's called.

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SB302 · Jul 7, 2017

Riptide said:
I didn't realize we had this option now. Cool. A 2015 long block you can drop in a 11-14 car and it's pcm compatible. Just needs opg and cs then it's G2G? Nice.

Yes, nice option that Ford gave us. Still breaking mine in...Couple notes on the swap...the M50A1 crate engine comes with a 3 bolt water pump. Mines is a 2011 and a 4 bolt water pump. I had to get a new water pump pulley to accommodate the 3 bolt pump, $10 part. Also, please not that the exhaust manifold studs are the fine pitch rather the course pitch that came on my 2011. I had to get new nuts for the manifold. If you have a new built 2011 and above, I believe they came wit the fine pitch. Other than those two things and the engine harness, which was $200, the swap is complete, nearly turn key. Hope this helps for anyone considering to put the GEN 2 motor in their GEN 1 car.

tones_RS3 · Jul 7, 2017

Famine said:
I've come to the conclusion that I would go with the 15 longblock, so I'm not worrying about the aluminator. I wish I could change the title. I am still trying to get my ducks in a row in terms of doing that myself as well. I've still never pulled a motor before. I will likely have someone that has done it before swing by and supervise. Most likely whoever I borrow the hoist from.

Very cool man.
Good luck!

esaputo · Jul 7, 2017

I just finished my aluminator swap. Put a low compression aluminator short block in my 2011. Cant wait to put more power to it but car runs great N/A until she soon sees boost

Flcracker · Jul 15, 2017

OP, if u mean change the title of this thread then just contact a moderator and they will change it if they think you have a good reason to. That was my experience anyway.

paulyboy928 · Jul 21, 2017

SB302 said:
Yes, nice option that Ford gave us. Still breaking mine in...Couple notes on the swap...the M50A1 crate engine comes with a 3 bolt water pump. Mines is a 2011 and a 4 bolt water pump. I had to get a new water pump pulley to accommodate the 3 bolt pump, $10 part. Also, please not that the exhaust manifold studs are the fine pitch rather the course pitch that came on my 2011. I had to get new nuts for the manifold. If you have a new built 2011 and above, I believe they came wit the fine pitch. Other than those two things and the engine harness, which was $200, the swap is complete, nearly turn key. Hope this helps for anyone considering to put the GEN 2 motor in their GEN 1 car.

I thought the original engine harness could run on the m50a1 long block?

I'm currently in the same boat as y'all with my '11.

krhonn · Jul 21, 2017

pualyboy928
I believe the m50a1 is compatible with the 13-14 without a harness change.
11-12 I think needs a newer harness. If you google the part number and go to Fords site, it explains what is needed.

paulyboy928 · Jul 26, 2017

what'e the part number for the engine harness needed to run the m50a1 long block?

paulyboy928 · Jul 30, 2017

Bump.

Is this the correct harness??

https://lmr.com/item/M12508M50/frpp...MIw4W8yLay1QIVTUsNCh07hwWEEAQYASABEgJMtPD_BwE

Famine · Jul 31, 2017

I think thats correct.

paulyboy928 · Jul 31, 2017

just placed an order a m50a1 block and harness. guess we'll see what happens.

paulyboy928 · Aug 1, 2017

Just in case people don't know, the m50a1 long block has a 15-17 exhaust camshaft and a 2012 boss 302 intake cam. I went through about 4 phone calls and 10 emails to figure that shit out for Lund.

Famine · Aug 2, 2017

paulyboy928 said:
Just in case people don't know, the m50a1 long block has a 15-17 exhaust camshaft and a 2012 boss 302 intake cam. I went through about 4 phone calls and 10 emails to figure that shit out for Lund.

So for a 13-14 guy, you wouldmt have to swap out anything correct? Just throw in the opg and the css for a 2014? Correct? Just confirming.

paulyboy928 · Aug 2, 2017

You may need a 3 bolt water pump pulley but that should be it. You don't need the opt and css unless you go aftermarket with them.

Famine · Aug 2, 2017

paulyboy928 said:
You may need a 3 bolt water pump pulley but that should be it. You don't need the opt and css unless you go aftermarket with them.

I plan on upgrading them since the oem ones are brittle.

paulyboy928 · Aug 2, 2017

then you're good

Swapping aluminator

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