Recent content by devilish64

Just put a coyote s197 drivshaft in it.... i run a shaftmasters and it is nice. Coyotes had the same driveshaft for auto and manual.

Mmr sells a "race prepped" factory 5.4/5.8 crank for $1150 shipped wich they descibe as "Cryo treated, polished, and race prepped. Will handle up to 2100 HP with better durability and less wear."

I dont think its very common, such is the purpose of this thread. I was trying to see who has done it and how it has worked for them. Im planning on building a motor that can make 1100rwhp and i know that if i say that it probably will eventually go further than that.

Had a few people chime in in another thread about breaking the snout off a few differnt factory cranks..... one was with a WAY over spun 2.3 tvs wich are not known to be tough on cranks like the big boy blowers. The cryo treat process only costs 2-300$ so it is still a few thousand dollars...

Anyone use one? I want more insurance than the factory crank but im to cheap for billet. I read that it significantly enhances the strength of the crank but its hard to know how much.

thats a serious build! Only a handful of people have owned both tvs and KB.... most go the other way from what I have seen since the 2.65. KB rates the kb 3.6 @1300hp (wich i assume is crank), so given what boost numbers i have heard it can attain..... i dont see why a max effort 3.6 build with...

Since the introduction of the 2.65 rotorpack it seems 1100-1200 rwhp builds are becoming much more common. Has anybody built a motor specifically for a KB3.6 WITH 10.0+ compression, ported heads and intake and all the boost? Im curious on the specifics of your setup(compression, boost, power and...

Ive had the kr shifter.... the mgw gen 2 and the barton..... i never cared for the mgw in my 07 so i sold it for the barton and i like it better for me and my driving style. I wouldnt spend any money on any other shifter if i already had the barton installed imo.

Am i correct in assuming that the M-6010-M54 block is discontinued from ford? I would be willing to pay that for a brand new block. EDIT: allot of sites say the have this block but it seems not many really have them. A few of the big companys that sell shortblocks seem to have them.... and the...

So i decided i would really like to keep this motor im building standard bore to keep as much strength in the block as possible. I am in the process of trying to locate a new 5.4 iron block wich is proving to be a little difficult. I wanted to try and put a motor together while leaving the motor...

how did you solve this problem out of curiosity? I assume its...... make less power lol

WOW..... now that was the info i was looking for..... thats a TON of power

So are you saying you cracked the factory iorn block @ ~1300 crank hp? Or was it a aftermarket sleeve in the iorn block that cracked? Thanks for the information..... it sounds like it was an expensive way to learn the limits of the factory stuff. I dont know why i wanna do something similar...

My car made 870rwhp on the stock motor almost a few years ago now.... so it is on borrowed time. Id like to not ruin my block, crank and cylinder heads. That is a main motivating factor to building the motor. Plus i love working on this car and I have just about "bolted" everything i can to it...

i would like to start with a set of known to be perfectly round holes. So weather i need a slight hone or a bore i dont really know until i take the block to the machine shop. I intend this motor to hold 1000+rwhp