Tuning and Mods

[Chancey]

Hey guys I have my 2013 GT500 that I purchased a few months back. LOVIN IT! I definitely want to mod the exhaust, CAI, throttle body, pulleys, and then dyno tune. My goal is to do it like the American Muscle 3 stage tune and upgrades to get 700 rwhp. I also have the FoMoCo full bumper to bumper warranty I purchased for $2,700. (Only a$100. Out of pocket for any repair or defect) Its good for 5 years from my date of purchase or 75,000. miles. Good insurance in my opinion for a used hot rod of this caliber... Herein lies my question: can I do the upgrades and tune, then put it all back to stock incase of a problem without voiding my warranty? Or do you leave an electronic trail once you do the mods this car? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[biminiLX]

What are your goals?
Best upgrades: tires (drag radials or Toyo R888Rs), gears (4.10 if drag radials, 3.73s all else), tune (Lund), and TB (Ford Racing Cobra Jet twin 65), off-road H-pipe.
That’s a really good start and you’ll enjoy the car much more with a plan than just a dyno number.
To my point, Traction and mechanical advantage from gears will allow you to actually use the power and enjoy the car out of boost and on the highway (3.31s suck for street gears and 4.10s only 2000rpm at 80mph).
I ran 11.03@128 with just a tune and 4.10s on heavy 20” Alcoas with Nitto DRs (all else 100% stock).
-J

 

[1 Alibi 2]

Or do you leave an electronic trail once you do the mods this car? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

.
Yes, they will know..

 

[Catmonkey]

Herein lies my question: can I do the upgrades and tune, then put it all back to stock incase of a problem without voiding my warranty? Or do you leave an electronic trail once you do the mods this car? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

You do the mods, you void the warranty. Returning it to stock in order to fool Ford to fix it because you voided the warranty is fraud. Yes, they have the means to detect that the warranty was voided to tell you to pound sand.

 

[Chancey]

Thanks catmonkey. My local dealer says I can get away with cold air and exhaust, just so I dont go into the computer. But I still think I will wait because I would need to retune to get any advantage from upgrades I think. I really like the warranty just in case!

 

[Chancey]

What are your goals?
Best upgrades: tires (drag radials or Toyo R888Rs), gears (4.10 if drag radials, 3.73s all else), tune (Lund), and TB (Ford Racing Cobra Jet twin 65), off-road H-pipe.
That’s a really good start and you’ll enjoy the car much more with a plan than just a dyno number.
To my point, Traction and mechanical advantage from gears will allow you to actually use the power and enjoy the car out of boost and on the highway (3.31s suck for street gears and 4.10s only 2000rpm at 80mph).
I ran 11.03@128 with just a tune and 4.10s on heavy 20” Alcoas with Nitto DRs (all else 100% stock).
-J

From what Im hearing I think Ill wait on all potential future mods to keep my warranty in place. But thanks for the advice.

 

[Chancey]

.
Yes, they will know..

I think Ill get many more good miles on her before I do any modding. I had rather have the warranty. Thank you for the reply.

 

[biminiLX]

Well, I understand but it really comes down to your dealer and it’s on Ford, not you, to prove a mod caused the failure. See Magnuson-Moss Act.
Back to my point, gears and drag radials and maybe an MGW shifter. Then a few suspension upgrades if needed. The Ford TB alone is worth decent power without tuning.
Lots you can do, and if it’s basic things and you have a reasonable dealer, it’s worth it. These are pretty robust cars—respect octane and RPM and not many common expensive failures.
I think some of the most common failures are rear end and clutch. Doing gears and sticky tires will by far give you the best bang for the buck, help save the clutch, and not affect warranty.
-J

 

[Chancey]

You do the mods, you void the warranty. Returning it to stock in order to fool Ford to fix it because you voided the warranty is fraud. Yes, they have the means to detect that the warranty was voided to tell you to pound sand.

Well, I understand but it really comes down to your dealer and it’s on Ford, not you, to prove a mod caused the failure. See Magnuson-Moss Act.
Back to my point, gears and drag radials and maybe an MGW shifter. Then a few suspension upgrades if needed. The Ford TB alone is worth decent power without tuning.
Lots you can do, and if it’s basic things and you have a reasonable dealer, it’s worth it. These are pretty robust cars—respect octane and RPM and not many common expensive failures.
I think some of the most common failures are rear end and clutch. Doing gears and sticky tires will by far give you the best bang for the buck, help save the clutch, and not affect warranty.
-J

Hey biminiLX. I appreciate your info and attitude. Yeah my dealer said no prob with the gear change as well. Mine is a daily driver, so Im gonna go with 3.73’s I think. All sound like great ideals that Im gonna try. Already doing the MGW shifter very soon. Thanks again bro...

 

[Chancey]

What are your goals?
Best upgrades: tires (drag radials or Toyo R888Rs), gears (4.10 if drag radials, 3.73s all else), tune (Lund), and TB (Ford Racing Cobra Jet twin 65), off-road H-pipe.
That’s a really good start and you’ll enjoy the car much more with a plan than just a dyno number.
To my point, Traction and mechanical advantage from gears will allow you to actually use the power and enjoy the car out of boost and on the highway (3.31s suck for street gears and 4.10s only 2000rpm at 80mph).
I ran 11.03@128 with just a tune and 4.10s on heavy 20” Alcoas with Nitto DRs (all else 100% stock).
-J

Hey biminiLX. Forgive my ignorance on the GT500’s. This is my first one and as of yet absolute favorite of the cars Ive owned. Just want to make sure that I make the best mods (as I go along) based on experienced owners who have gone before me with such. I am sold on going with the 3.73 rear gears for sure. Just curious of a couple of things: Will I lose performance in any area (0-60 time, etc.) with the change from the 3.31 gears? I know Ill gain overall performance. Ive had 3.73 gears in a 2017 mustang gt and loved the difference! And secondly, its seems about half of the people who swap the rear gears in these 13-14 models complain that even though they love the “bang for buck” performance, they have a very noticeable noise/whine after the swap even if ford or another pro does a correct install. What is is your opinion on that? Thanks for the great information and helping to educate us newer to the shelby club members.

 

[biminiLX]

Regarding the gear whine, the most common cause is launching with sticky tires, most notably at a drag strip. It is NOT related to the numerical gear ratio. Why, because I’ve had 3.31s then 4.10s then 3.73s then 4.10s (now 4.00s in a 9”).
EACH set was silent until a launch on drag radials.
So, as long as you don’t launch the car at the track, you should be good to go as long as the install is correct. If you do intend to go to the track, even on a few occasions for fun, there are a few precautions I’ve learned, most notably using BIAS PLY tires.
On performance loss, NO loss on anything notable except for possibly top speed. You will immediately notice the car is easier to drive at low speeds like parking lots, the car will feel lighter and more responsive off boost, and the highway cruising in 6th will actually be possible.
Man it’s almost spring, can’t wait to get the car out!
-J

 

[Chancey]

Regarding the gear whine, the most common cause is launching with sticky tires, most notably at a drag strip. It is NOT related to the numerical gear ratio. Why, because I’ve had 3.31s then 4.10s then 3.73s then 4.10s (now 4.00s in a 9”).
EACH set was silent until a launch on drag radials.
So, as long as you don’t launch the car at the track, you should be good to go as long as the install is correct. If you do intend to go to the track, even on a few occasions for fun, there are a few precautions I’ve learned, most notably using BIAS PLY tires.
On performance loss, NO loss on anything notable except for possibly top speed. You will immediately notice the car is easier to drive at low speeds like parking lots, the car will feel lighter and more responsive off boost, and the highway cruising in 6th will actually be possible.
Man it’s almost spring, can’t wait to get the car out!
-J

Thanks man. What I wanted to hear...

 

[Catmonkey]

Since you saw fit to quote me on regarding attitude, I guess you felt I was too harsh. It is what it is. You mod, you break, accept the responsibility. These engines are real expensive to rebuild. Been there, done that. The engines are pretty durable, but they aren't bullet proof. Why do I care? I'm also a Ford stockholder.

As far as a claim under Magnuson Moss, Ford has an army of lawyers and experts. They would be foolish to deny an engine warranty on a replacement part for the suspension, and that is the intent of the act. Change the air intake and by the time you lawyer up, you'll still be in hole even if you're fortunate enough to win that claim. You can see by my signature, I'm not anti-mod. On the other hand, I'm not looking to Ford to make me whole when I screw up, which certainly comes across as such in your original post regarding mod plans. When it's time to fish or cut bait, it's going to be Ford, not your dealer, who decides a warranty claim. For all you know, the previous owner could have modified the car and returned it to stock, and the warranty boat has already left the dock.

With regard to 3.73s, unless you load a tune to correct it, you're speedometer is going to be off. The dealer can't help you with that one either. 3.73 is outside the allowable parameter for a Ford technician to adjust with dealer software. Just want you to be aware. Personally, I'd cancel the extended warranty and spend that $2,700 on some reasonable mods and keep the rpm range in the yellow zone.

 

[Chancey]

First off, I didnt quote you at all. I responded with a sincere thank you to your comment because I appreciated the information. If you have some sort of rub, I dont know why and am told old to try and fiquire it out or care.
Theres no issue in my book anyway. Again, thanks for the info.

 

[Robot_trainer]

First off, I didnt quote you at all. I responded with a sincere thank you to your comment because I appreciated the information. If you have some sort of rub, I dont know why and am told old to try and fiquire it out or care.
Theres no issue in my book anyway. Again, thanks for the info.

I have to agree with Catmonkey on this one. There have been cases where even warranty claims on unmodified cars get voided for some reason. I did the cold air/throttle body on mine when its was fairly new. The trick is to find a good tuner/tune. You cant go wrong with Lund, VMP, BJ McCarty (sorry for the wrong spelling BJ, just in case). In stock form, the gear change, throttle body and cold air, and to extremes, headers really wake these things up without getting into the danger zone. As soon as you start to mess with pulleys, bigger blowers, etc. you start getting closer to the limits. You go in with your eyes open. Chances are the above mods I mentioned (less the pulleys/blower) should not put the engine in danger, however if there is some underlining issue (maybe a marginal part) that causes a catastrophic failure and Ford sees that some engine management system was changed, you will have a hard time getting the warranty honored. Unless the dealer is willing to take the hit (if they are get it in writting), dont expect any help from Ford. If you change the gears you will need a tune. Dealer cannot change the gear ratio. There system will say it was changed but it wont be. Its locked in the PCM. Another good change is a cooler thermostat and colder plugs. it will help with detonation from fuel that isnt as advertised. Good luck! You will have a lot of fun with this car.

 

[Norton]

First off, I didnt quote you at all.

It may have been unintentional, but you did quote him in this post. In thanking biminiLX for his attitude, there was an implication you didn't like Catmonkey's. (Probably unintentional but, FWIW, I shared his understanding of your intent.)

Not sure if you still have the ability to cancel your extended warranty, but $2700 sounds excessive. There are a number of dealers, including Zeigler and Flood, selling Ford ESP online significantly cheaper than most sell it in-person. (I paid under $800 for 7 years worth of coverage from Flood.)

 

[Chancey]

If so on the quote, totally unintentional. Definitely no intent on my part. And yeah I cant back out, but thanks for the advice for sure. I was so scared when my engine started tapping (even Ford said/agreed it was the engine), that I jumped quickly for fear of replacing the engine out of pocket. An expensive mistake, but oh well live and learn... To compound my poor decision making, now that I have determined for sure my engine is sound (the shifter install completely fixed my “valve train noise”) Im wanting to mod so bad Im almost ready to say to heck with the warranty and move forward with my build plans earlier than before! I have sadly always pursued passion over wisdom when it comes to my rides... Not too wise, but true.

 

[Chancey]

I have to agree with Catmonkey on this one. There have been cases where even warranty claims on unmodified cars get voided for some reason. I did the cold air/throttle body on mine when its was fairly new. The trick is to find a good tuner/tune. You cant go wrong with Lund, VMP, BJ McCarty (sorry for the wrong spelling BJ, just in case). In stock form, the gear change, throttle body and cold air, and to extremes, headers really wake these things up without getting into the danger zone. As soon as you start to mess with pulleys, bigger blowers, etc. you start getting closer to the limits. You go in with your eyes open. Chances are the above mods I mentioned (less the pulleys/blower) should not put the engine in danger, however if there is some underlining issue (maybe a marginal part) that causes a catastrophic failure and Ford sees that some engine management system was changed, you will have a hard time getting the warranty honored. Unless the dealer is willing to take the hit (if they are get it in writting), dont expect any help from Ford. If you change the gears you will need a tune. Dealer cannot change the gear ratio. There system will say it was changed but it wont be. Its locked in the PCM. Another good change is a cooler thermostat and colder plugs. it will help with detonation from fuel that isnt as advertised. Good luck! You will have a lot of fun with this car.

Thanks man. That mirrors the good advice I am recieving from others who have been there to, and even a bit more info than most have said (thanks again). I do appreciate it greatly. My thinking is the same. When I do mod, I am gonna try the 3.73 rear gear, cold air, theottle body and tune. Already working on the plugs and colder t stat soon. I was thinking about the upper SC pulley but I would rather air to the somewhat safer zone versus pushing her too far for a few ponies more after reading your input.

 

[Chancey]

Thanks man. That mirrors the good advice I am recieving from others who have been there to, and even a bit more info than most have said (thanks again). I do appreciate it greatly. My thinking is the same. When I do mod, I am gonna try the 3.73 rear gear, cold air, theottle body and tune. Already working on the plugs and colder t stat soon. I was thinking about the upper SC pulley but I would rather air to the somewhat safer zone versus pushing her too far for a few ponies more after reading your input.

 

[Chancey]

I think I just fiquired out that I am quoting or not without knowing how or intending to! Sorry for any and all unintended quotes!