Did I miss the post or do you have a Gen 3 on your car Catmonkey?
-J
-J
Any reason to upgrade the TB? How much power and boost do you plan to run?
I do, but it's still in the box at this point. I got it with the adapter for the standard throttle body bolt pattern. I'm still chasing a few other gremlins on my car, but it shouldn't be much longer before it's installed. I own the big Whipple elliptical and its already been figured out from a tuning standpoint. Just by design, I have to believe it probably has better street manners than true ovals of similar flow rates. I intend to run the 67mm on the street anyway. I spend more time in the lower and mid range than I do in the upper rpm zones on the street, so it's plenty adequate. If I want to get serious, I'm just four bolts and a bigger MAF away from a few more ponies.Did I miss the post or do you have a Gen 3 on your car Catmonkey?
-J
Sorry, no. I've never been into VMP. Is the bolt spacing on this TB unique to their elbow?
Just curious how much this and their 173 TB flows though... like to see how it stacks up to mine...
TB makes a big difference on these because as bimini points out they love to breathe. Justin of VMP has a video where he goes from gen2 to gen3 and then from twin 67 to 160 and he gains 30 whp from TB switch IIRC. That is with stock exhaust manifold so expect more with headers. While probably not necessary I am going to 148 CIA as well.
I do, but it's still in the box at this point. I got it with the adapter for the standard throttle body bolt pattern. I'm still chasing a few other gremlins on my car, but it shouldn't be much longer before it's installed. I own the big Whipple elliptical and its already been figured out from a tuning standpoint. Just by design, I have to believe it probably has better street manners than true ovals of similar flow rates. I intend to run the 67mm on the street anyway. I spend more time in the lower and mid range than I do in the upper rpm zones on the street, so it's plenty adequate. If I want to get serious, I'm just four bolts and a bigger MAF away from a few more ponies.
Hi Catmonkey, really need your help.
Can you please take some pictures of the cutting tool that comes with the VMP Gen III 2650 supercharger and post the pictures. I need to know the size of that cutter and which brand, etc. Thanks for your help.
I am in the middle of the installing a KB 3.6 and running into the SAME interference issue - need to cut the driver side water neck down to clear the KB 3.6.
I am thinking MOST of the people who install the KB 3.6 / 4.2 / 4.7 do NOT really know they have an big interference issue with the driver side intake manifold water neck.
No markings other than 'Snappy'. I will try and measure the nose diameter for you when I get home.
My car made 20+ more peak RWHP (740) and considerable power and torque over the entire curve with a twin 72mm TB over a FRPP twin 65mm TB. Unfortunately that 72 was just too dam unreliable. It was amazingly more responsive and at WOT, the car was down right nasty, just couldn’t get the TB to work anywhere other than WOT.... LOL.
Since then I’ve been chasing that power and throttle response like a junkie and I’m hoping the latest iteration; whipple mono and PMAS / 1320 Junkie DD149 MAF will be the ticket. I can’t help but feel like the inconsistent readings from the JLT intake / MAF played a role in the demise of some of those big twin bore TB’s but then again I only marginally understand how that all works so what do I know... I do know that my JLT intake that was supposed to be 123mm ranged anywhere from 113mm to 118mm inside diameter from one end to the other and it was smallest at the inlet. That can’t be good for consistent MAF signals.
I sent my 160mm back last week. I will get the twin 67mm for now, then wait until all issues are resolved with the 160mm. My car is a rocket already with the stock TB and Gen 3 supergharger. Don't want to trade off any drivability for a few hp.
So was it the TB or tune causing the issue?My car made 20+ more peak RWHP (740) and considerable power and torque over the entire curve with a twin 72mm TB over a FRPP twin 65mm TB. Unfortunately that 72 was just too dam unreliable. It was amazingly more responsive and at WOT, the car was down right nasty, just couldn’t get the TB to work anywhere other than WOT.... LOL.
Since then I’ve been chasing that power and throttle response like a junkie and I’m hoping the latest iteration; whipple mono and PMAS / 1320 Junkie DD149 MAF will be the ticket. I can’t help but feel like the inconsistent readings from the JLT intake / MAF played a role in the demise of some of those big twin bore TB’s but then again I only marginally understand how that all works so what do I know... I do know that my JLT intake that was supposed to be 123mm ranged anywhere from 113mm to 118mm inside diameter from one end to the other and it was smallest at the inlet. That can’t be good for consistent MAF signals.
The 67mm should make great powerI sent my 160mm back last week. I will get the twin 67mm for now, then wait until all issues are resolved with the 160mm. My car is a rocket already with the stock TB and Gen 3 supergharger. Don't want to trade off any drivability for a few hp.
So was it the TB or tune causing the issue?
That sucks to hear. Did you ever get a fail safe?The TB I think. My tuner has been tuning my cars for almost 20 years, never had an issue like that. It was so sparattic too, it would be fine for a couple days or long trips then out of nowhere, wrench light...