Nice swap.
Sneaky sneaky.
Sneaky sneaky.
Even at a legit track you'll definitely need to focus on mechanical grip. Stock rear lower control arms are garbage, especially base Mustang stuff.
To be honest, i wouldn't recommend polyurethane control arms. Ive blown out 2 sets of poly LCA bushings and an UCA poly bushing. The lowers shifting to second, and the upper blew during a launch.
Youll want to head straight to rod end control arms. They are noisy, and can rattle over time. But they are the only consistent arm construction for drag racing. Especially on dig launches at a prepped track.
Rear rod end upper control arm with mount, rod end rear lower control arms and LCA relocation brackets, adjustable panhard rod and 1 peice drive shaft should be on your short list of next mods.
I would HIGHLY recommend upgrading that JLT to a PMAS 120MM, especially if your upgrading to a TVS.
Ditch the Bama tune, complete garbage. Lund Racing, VMP or JDM Engineering are your top choices for a tune.
Make sure the fuel system is up to snuff. If you swapped over the GT500 fuel system, youll only need a Pump Booster. If its a boosted V6 pump, get that upgraded to a GT500 system STAT.
Don't waste time with the Toyo. They are good, but depending on your tire size youll want a Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S radial if youre roll racing/street stuff. Youll spin less on the Toyos, but youll spin none the less.
If this set up is for dedicated dragstrip use, you want bias plys. Ive bent 3 axles trying to dig race off radials. After $500 needlessly wasted because of the wrong tire choice, learn from my fail.
Sent from my banana using the svtperformance.com mobile app
...
A full car weight, all the torques and no give in the tire or the traction, the weak point is usually the axle or driveshaft. With a 1 piece driveshaft, its definitely the axles lol.
...
Get that rear suspension squared away.
- solid rod end LCAs (aggressive as hell at putting power to the ground)
- upper control arm and mount
- Watts link!!!!!!!!
Lightweight wheels
Lightweight 1-piece driveshaft
Lightweight clutch assembly
BETTER BLOWER
You already have the rear gear, so the items listed should get you there. I have all that and more, and I have ZERO worries about a Hellcat running up. I ran into a modded C6 Z06 that wanted to play one day. He thought he was gonna have an easy kill that day. I gave him a taste of how my car runs. He changed his mind. haha So, yeah. A properly setup suspension works WONDERS on the GT500. And mine is setup for corner carving, not drag racing.
I have the BMR one with solid rod end links and upgraded pivot joint. But according to BMR themselves, the upgraded pivot is a waste of money. It doesn't work any better than the standard joint.
Upgraded one wont wear out as quickI have the BMR one with solid rod end links and upgraded pivot joint. But according to BMR themselves, the upgraded pivot is a waste of money. It doesn't work any better than the standard joint.
@12wendel12
You have to be realistic about what the car is going to be used for the most. If its mostly street, youll be ok with the radials. When you go to a track that has traction prep on it, that's when you can bend an axle with a radial. Even with a meaty sidewall, the radials dont flex like a bias drag tire will. They can also induce a hop in the rear end that you may not feel, but its definitely bad. Automatics have a torque converter that acts as a "shock absorber" for the driveline. In a manual car, thats what the bias slick acts as.
A full car weight, all the torques and no give in the tire or the traction, the weak point is usually the axle or driveshaft. With a 1 piece driveshaft, its definitely the axles lol.
If your doing a lot of street dig racing, even with these S/S radial drag tires youll smoke the tires if your launch is to hard off the line. Suspension upgrade is critical.
275 vs. 295: both probably have similar grip. From my understanding the street radial pro and S/S inner tire structure are identical. Racers are setting track records on the 275 Radial Pro so its a well engineered tire. But thats on auto cars with prep.
For street digs, I rec the 295/55R15 S/S. The tire diameter works well with your 3.73s. Also, a 15" wheel lets you mount bias ply slicks for when you want to go to a prepped track. Id run street pressures at about 28 PSI.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mickey-Thompson/672/3454/10002/-1
If your mostly roll racing with only some dig racing, an 18" size would be better. Smaller sidewall will give you more stability and control when cornering versus the 15". Since your already moving, you want the tire to react instantly and a smaller sidewall profile 18" will do that better than the 15".
What size wheels are out back right now?
Sorry to jack your thread.. But i had both of these in the shop today... Hellcat engine next to a gt500 engine. Thought it was neat to see them side by sideView attachment 1470077 View attachment 1470078 View attachment 1470079 View attachment 1470080 View attachment 1470081 View attachment 1470082 View attachment 1470083
The hemi has funky looking valve covers.