clutch pedal "soft" and hangs after a wot pull

Lethalchem

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I understand how the presence or absence of the spring would change the pedal feel, but why would this spring be causing the intermittent hanging problem people were experiencing after a hard pull or two?
 

fulanititoo8198

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So far I've removed the spring and did the clutch line. It's about 20% better but still loses engagement force after a pull which makes it easier to miss a gear.
 

impactblue

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Ford replaced my clutch flywheel and throw out bearing and the engagement point is the same. The pedal still hangs nothing was fixed.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
 

LewieE

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I just removed the spring this morning and have been out on a drive for breakfast. The clutch is 100% better. Like others, I thought it was my ineptitude that was causing the stalling (about 3 times now in 215 miles). This made it much easier to get the true feel of the clutch.

I don't work around cars much and while not foreign to the odd job, I wouldn't call myself a gear head. However, this took about 20 minutes from start to cleanup. Easy mod and highly recommended.
 

Norton

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I just removed the spring this morning and have been out on a drive for breakfast. The clutch is 100% better. Like others, I thought it was my ineptitude that was causing the stalling (about 3 times now in 215 miles). This made it much easier to get the true feel of the clutch.

I don't work around cars much and while not foreign to the odd job, I wouldn't call myself a gear head. However, this took about 20 minutes from start to cleanup. Easy mod and highly recommended.

Welcome, LewieE! Your experience mirrors many of us who also removed our assist springs. While heavier, clutch response of much more linear. :thumbsup:
 

LewieE

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thanks Norton. I've been reading posts to gather as much info as I can. My first GT500 (or any SVT caar for that matter).

My thanks also to Snoopy for a great, detailed instruction and SVT Matt for the YouTube video. The two combined made this an easy mod. Next up is the Resonator Delete and Airraid Filter...baby steps!
 

DaveJP

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2014 - Removed Clutch Spring

2014 GT500 - No issues with clutch sticking but I just did the mod and there is a marked difference in the clutch feel. I used the vise grip method...Very easy once you realize what you are attempting to do. I did the entire procedure from outside the care leaning in with seat all the way back..Push on clutch pedal with left hand, use vise grips to compress spring with right hand, use right hand to push down and back on spring assembly (ears)...The key here is to use a little force and it will pop right out of the groove that holds it in...10 minute job at best.
I have to say that although I had gotten used to the spring, I was not happy with the feel... I have to believe that the non-linear feel would promote unnecessary clutch wear since you are always searching for the engagement point, especially when starting out in 1st gear.
I've been driving manual Mustangs for 25 years and I can vouch for others who say that this is a "must do".

Thanks for the info and instructions!
 

bpmurr

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2014 GT500 - No issues with clutch sticking but I just did the mod and there is a marked difference in the clutch feel. I used the vise grip method...Very easy once you realize what you are attempting to do. I did the entire procedure from outside the care leaning in with seat all the way back..Push on clutch pedal with left hand, use vise grips to compress spring with right hand, use right hand to push down and back on spring assembly (ears)...The key here is to use a little force and it will pop right out of the groove that holds it in...10 minute job at best.
I have to say that although I had gotten used to the spring, I was not happy with the feel... I have to believe that the non-linear feel would promote unnecessary clutch wear since you are always searching for the engagement point, especially when starting out in 1st gear.
I've been driving manual Mustangs for 25 years and I can vouch for others who say that this is a "must do".

Thanks for the info and instructions!

I tried the vise grip method with no luck. On mine there still wasn't enough clearance to remove it. The soft pedal feel has happened to me twice and it's scary as crap. Not sure how SVT even allowed for this to happen while engineering the car. The high clutch release point along with uncertain engagement point is my only complaint about this car. Like you I have to believe this is causing unneeded wear to the clutch and can certainly understand how some owners have had clutch issues on bone stock cars. In comparison the clutch on my Boss and older Shelbys were much smoother with the lower release point.

I read that changing the slave cylinder to one from the 10-12 GT500 would give you the old release point. Has anyone done that?
 
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Snoopy49

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2013 Shelby GT500 Chassis Development - Total Package

Hydraulically, the need was to increase flow volume, so SVT increased the master cylinder bore diameter. This reduced the hydraulic leverage in the system at the same time the clutch spring pressure had been increased, so clutch pedal effort rose considerably. An over-center spring was therefore added to the pedal arm to drop pedal effort back to something similar to the '12 level, but ultimately the end result is that the '13 clutch is a little heavier to the driver.
 

bpmurr

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I gave the vise grip method one more shot tonight. I had my fiancée sit in the driver's seat and push down on the pedal. This allowed me to use both hands to push down on the top of the spring. The spring came right out. Wow does the clutch pedal feel so much better. This is the way it should have come from the factory. The extra pedal effort required is minimal, the response is linear, and the car drives so much better!
 

Snoopy49

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I read that changing the slave cylinder to one from the 10-12 GT500 would give you the old release point. Has anyone done that?

Something to consider.

M5lp 1209 7 2013 Shelby Gt500 Total Package

A close-up of the pedal assembly shows the new clutch master cylinder. It features a larger-diameter bore, plus a considerably more rigid forged- aluminum construction to withstand the system's higher hydraulic pressures. The '12 clutch master cylinder used a plastic housing with an aluminum sleeve in the bore. It flexed excessively when trying to operate the '13 clutch and so was replaced.
 

nsstang

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Just took my spring out and wow it feels so much better. I would not say its stiffer, I would say its about the same at some points and just gets rid of that mushy feeling.

One more 2013 with spring removed! I say remove them all Ford!
 

Snoopy49

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That works great if you have the pedal assembly out of the car. The problem is, with the assembly in the car, it is not always possible to push the pedal far enough forward to allow the pin to clear the perch. It worked for some without a problem and has resulted in the breakage of the alignment post inside the spring assembly for others.
If you don't plan on ever reinstalling the spring, you have nothing to lose.

Here is a picture of a 2013 GT500 clutch assist spring. You can see the black post on the black plastic base that gets broken.

2013%20Clutch%20Pedal%20Assist%20Spring%202_zpsp4xc0x2u.gif
 

Lethalchem

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That works great if you have the pedal assembly out of the car. The problem is, with the assembly in the car, it is not always possible to push the pedal far enough forward to allow the pin to clear the perch. It worked for some without a problem and has resulted in the breakage of the alignment post inside the spring assembly for others.
If you don't plan on ever reinstalling the spring, you have nothing to lose.

Here is a picture of a 2013 GT500 clutch assist spring. You can see the black post on the black plastic base that gets broken.

2013%20Clutch%20Pedal%20Assist%20Spring%202_zpsp4xc0x2u.gif

To me breakage should be pretty easy to avoid. If you are having to force it heavily, you probably haven't got the pedal far enough down or the spring isn't compressed enough and you're going to snap something. I think I'll try this method in the near future. If I have to yank on it too hard I'll just stop and leave it alone. Just thought I'd post a vid of another option for people. Looks straight forward enough.
 

Snoopy49

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I tried the vise grip method on my car and I couldn't get the pedal far enough forward to remove the spring. Some have tried it and succeeded and others have broken the post.
Whatever way you decide to go, the outcome is worth the effort.
I hope your one of the successful ones.
 
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