Aftermarket Sub Amp Install to an existing '12 Shaker Sound

[4rd Toys]

So I'm gathering all the components needed to install a Sub amplifier to my existing 2012 regular Shaker Sound System [Base model w/o Nav & w/o factory Subs]:

"]

[/URL]

[Not pictured- 1F Capacitor, RCA cables & speaker wire]

I tried searching here [SVTP] but some how I keep getting a Google "error" message & I have seen a couple of posts similar to my situation which I was trying to locate for reference

I am getting ready to do the install myself & have every necessary component to complete the install in a day but not spend all day doing it.....

..................................................................................................................................................................


I have a couple of "leftover" line-out converters [speak wire to RCA] but I see others are using Audio Control LC2i converter [w/ ACR-1 remote] instead which I may emulate as well...

LC2i 2ch Line Out Converter with AccuBASS(tm) and Subwoofer Control

My amp has a remote/lead turn-on connection: Does the LC2i have remote/lead to turn on my amp?
[If NOT & based on wiring diagram below] which wire would I need to tap into to connect the remote/lead from my amp and would I need a step-down [12V to 5V] converter like this one [I found on Crutchfield]:

Axxess AFDI-5V 12-volt to 5-volt converter — eliminates the turn-on "thump" in Ford-built vehicles with amplified systems at Crutchfield.com


...........................................................................................................

So I found a sound system wiring diagram but it's for 2011-

Ford Service Manuals - Wiring Diagrams

I know [so far] the factory amp that I want to "tap" into is in the driver's side kick panel & the wire harness is the right side one [one closest to fire-wall]
So is it safe to say the above 2011 diagram would also apply to a 2012?
According to the diagram, I need to look for [L] white & white/brown wires and [R] white/violet & white/orange wires.... is that correct?

Now for the Ground wire for the amp- I plan to mount my amp some where on the passenger side [trunk]. Where should I attach the wire to the chassis on the right side? Is there a bolt in the vicinity or do I have drill a hole & use a nut/bolt set-up?
I want to keep the spare tire well clear, for me its useable space

Was hoping some one could post pics of their installs specifically the wire connections or pm me the details

Thanks

 

[Nsssane1]

The lc2 is the way to go, you can tap right into the rear deck speakers, and it will turn the amp on and off. I found the sub overpowered the stock radio so I had to add a 2nd amp for rear deck and front speakers these were upgraded also.

My thread may help.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum.../917284-shaker-500-navi-way-should-sound.html

 

[SuperFly03]

I dropped a Jl Audio stealth box into my GT500 with a boston acoustics amp. I also installed new front and rear speakers (and doubled the speaker count). I didn't use a LC2 but I did remote tap a wire in the passenger door sill. It was easy as hell. Hard part was finding a good out of the way place to mount the amp.

I've been considering a new amp for the interior speakers. Haven't decided. I have 4x boston Acoustics 5 1/4 component systems installed. Forget the exact model number.

 

[RARESNAKE]

I want to do the same on my car. Can't wait.

 

[4rd Toys]

So far I have only been able to route the (+) 4-gauge cable from the battery, around the splash panel, & thru the fire-wall....

But I tried "prying" up the "SVT" lower trim panel along the carpet edge- I couldn't get it to "pop" off & afraid that I may break something...

Any tips on how to pull/pry the trim panel? Do you have to really pull very "hard"?

I found these instructions for interior trim panel removal but for me it's not coming along as "easy" as I thought....

http://info.shelbyamerican.com/Instructions/KA-6x8-SPEAKER.pdf

I decided since I'm pulling panels I may as well replace all the speakers [Found some deals on eBay & Amazon]-
F/R 6x8 Infinity Kappa's
L/R 8" shallow-mount Rockford Fosgate subs for the door panels


But I'm retaining the OE "Shaker" amps & head-unit....

 

[4rd Toys]

The lc2 is the way to go.................


http://www.svtperformance.com/forum.../917284-shaker-500-navi-way-should-sound.html

So I picked up AC LC2i converter and now trying to figure out where to "splice" the power & ground wires to the unit [LC2i]:

I know I need a remote "turn-on" positive so it turns on when the key is turned on for the stereo or when the car is running.

The ground, I'm going to go back to Shaker headunit or the driver's side kick-panel amp.

But where?

Factory wire color codes [for the + & -]?

 

[Nsssane1]

I got my power for the lc2 from the battery wire (amp wire), the ground I found a bolt between the rear seats and grounded my amp and lc2 there, the remote turn on comes from the rear speakers, when it gets the signal the speakers are on it turns the amp on, immediately.

 

[Screamin363]

I have a strang audio question... Why does my aftermarket amp pound my aftermarket sub so damn hard at low volume and as the volume increases the bass does not seem to get louder but the mids and highs get louder.
I was told the factory head unit could be to blame. Any other with this issue and a factory head unit?

Thanks

 

[Nsssane1]

I have a strang audio question... Why does my aftermarket amp pound my aftermarket sub so damn hard at low volume and as the volume increases the bass does not seem to get louder but the mids and highs get louder.
I was told the factory head unit could be to blame. Any other with this issue and a factory head unit?

Thanks

Do you have a aftermarket amp to power the sub, if so are you using some type of convertor to get an audio signal to the amp.(Rca Cable)

 

[Screamin363]

I have a kicker sub and amp. Run like the guys are talking about above. Powers up from the speakers but has a wire(kicker recommended) to use to lower the input level and converts that power to RCA's.

So the amp has a high level input and low level with push of a button. I'm using the low level since the high level at low volume is to harsh. But either way button in or out the bass does not increase with volume as much as the highs and mids.

Amp is kicker CX 300.1? I think

 

[4rd Toys]

I got my power for the lc2 from the battery wire (amp wire), the ground I found a bolt between the rear seats and grounded my amp and lc2 there, the remote turn on comes from the rear speakers, when it gets the signal the speakers are on it turns the amp on, immediately.

You don't get "feedback" sound [crackling/sizzle/whining/pop] thru your Subwoofer [either when you initially turn on the stereo or during normal play-back] since you are routing the pwr (+)/grnd (-) for both the LC2i & sub amp together?


I'm also installing a Capacitor but going to ground it separate from the sub amp; Maybe I'll try "tapping" [LC2i] off the sub amp directly......

..................................................................................................................................................................................................................

I saw two other posts regarding the same situation but under the '11-'14 Mustang General Talk, but no one elaborated in detail their installs. It shouldn't be any different......

 

[scotsam]

My kid is running a jl audio clean sweep in his gti. He wanted to keep the factory head unit. It sounds great it's hard to believe it's coming from a factory head unit. ( a Vw one at that)

 

[brandon_s0854]

I have a strang audio question... Why does my aftermarket amp pound my aftermarket sub so damn hard at low volume and as the volume increases the bass does not seem to get louder but the mids and highs get louder.
I was told the factory head unit could be to blame. Any other with this issue and a factory head unit?

Thanks

Many factory head units have bass attenuation built in. It's there to keep your speakers from being damaged when you turn up the volume. It's needed because the factory speakers are cheap and can't handle the power needed to produce a balanced sound at higher volume levels.

Depending on how much attenuation there is, you can get around this by turning your bass in your head unit all the way down and then turning your sub amp up to compensate.

 

[CodyK7]

I didn't understand 99% of this thread.....that is all

 

[Nsssane1]

I have a kicker sub and amp. Run like the guys are talking about above. Powers up from the speakers but has a wire(kicker recommended) to use to lower the input level and converts that power to RCA's.

So the amp has a high level input and low level with push of a button. I'm using the low level since the high level at low volume is to harsh. But either way button in or out the bass does not increase with volume as much as the highs and mids.

Amp is kicker CX 300.1? I think

You might can set the fader more toward the rear speakers, if your sub runs off the rear, that may equal everything out. But im pretty sure the high level input is your problem. The Lc2i would solve this problem. My sub was so much louder than my highs and mids I had to amp them also.

 

[Nsssane1]

You don't get "feedback" sound [crackling/sizzle/whining/pop] thru your Subwoofer [either when you initially turn on the stereo or during normal play-back] since you are routing the pwr (+)/grnd (-) for both the LC2i & sub amp together?


I'm also installing a Capacitor but going to ground it separate from the sub amp; Maybe I'll try "tapping" [LC2i] off the sub amp directly......

..................................................................................................................................................................................................................

I saw two other posts regarding the same situation but under the '11-'14 Mustang General Talk, but no one elaborated in detail their installs. It shouldn't be any different......

I don't get that loud pop when I turn mine on. The pop is usually from the amp turning on but most manufacturers today have fixed that problem.

 

[4rd Toys]

UPDATE:

All I can say is "WOW", what a difference with just swapping out the 6x8's & door subs with Rockford-Fosgates & Infinity Kappas.... Then adding in my 10" sub enclosure in the trunk....

Definitely worth the time & energy.... Just be sure to have a set of 1/2" MDF 8" sub rings handy & speaker grilles for the door subs....
Oh, the bottom door "SVT" trim panel was a real pain! The 3-M tape Ford used around the outer edges was tough which fooled me into thinking there was another locking clip/tab somewhere else.


Here's pics of what the factory/OE speakers look like- Just surprised what Ford uses as part of the "Shaker Audio" [plastic frame, paper woofer, etc...]


Door Sub, Door full-range, Rear-deck full-range

"]

[/URL]

"]

[/URL]

 

[RARESNAKE]

Any pics of final product?

 

[4rd Toys]

Any pics of final product?

No I didn't take any finished shots.

Here's a link: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?987692-what-can-I-do-to-make-the-shaker-500-better

This is the enclousure I'm using. When you remove the passenger carpet paneling, there's a gap large enough to mount the amp vertically.

You just have to "flip" the riveted bolt that holds a bracket so the amp slides in place nicely. I grounded it right in the same area where two panels welded/pressed together. Oh I also placed a 1/2 farad cap behind the carpet too.

The LCi2 is mounted on the upper brace next to the deck speakers.

 

[Nsssane1]

Yeah I've heard a 13" Jl sub box and mine sounds just as good if not better, and mine was $120 for the box and $100 for the sub. The Jl is crazy overpriced its like $750, no way-complete rip off. And you have to bolt the stealth box down, mine I can just take it in and out, if wanting to save weight at the time.

You shouldn't have needed the new door subs with the sub in the rear, there's no way I could even hear the door sub in my car now.