Newest hood mod, trying to keep the temps down

gcassidy

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racebronco2 said:
Nice car. Atlantic blue is my 2nd favorite color. I would just get another hood that could either be modified or one that already has extractors in it already. Even though you could add some extractors to you current hood it just wouldn't look correct and with such a nice car you wouldn't want to ruin the look you have now.
I agree that a cheap fiberglass hood to experiment with would be the way to go. My projects make a 3rd grader's science project look over-engineered. :shrug:

But I've always been somewhat attracted to the racer's hodge-podge modded look. Comes from racing bikes with no $$$ for years.
 
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racebronco2

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gcassid said:
But I've always been somewhat attracted to the racer's hodge-podge modded look. Comes from racing bikes with no $$$ for years.

Or autoxing and open tracking a turbo bronco2 roadster wit used 12" slicks.
 

99COBRA2881

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For less money Cervinis builds a lift off 03/04 style hood for only $295, I have one for my race car. It weighs about 21-22 lbs compared to Tiger Racings $600 l/o fiberglass hood that tips the scale at 20lbs. Only downside to the Cervinis hood is the vents are molded shut and some dremel work is needed to make them functional. If I follow Carlos' lead and cut the hood openings out some more and install the louvers it will only decrease the weight and increase the hoods functionality.

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gcassidy

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99COBRA2881 said:
For less money Cervinis builds a lift off 03/04 style hood for only $295, I have one for my race car. It weighs about 21-22 lbs compared to Tiger Racings $600 l/o fiberglass hood that tips the scale at 20lbs. Only downside to the Cervinis hood is the vents are molded shut and some dremel work is needed to make them functional. If I follow Carlos' lead and cut the hood openings out some more and install the louvers it will only decrease the weight and increase the hoods functionality.
Are your vents on the side to extract engine heat also? How well do they work?
 

99COBRA2881

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I guess they work, they help prevent a high pressure pocket to develop in the front wheel wells. Or atleast thats what KB claimed, they were on the car when I bought it. I may look into building something similar to this if there is enough interest? Im not sure how much engine heat they help extract as the inner fender sheet metal is all still in place.
 

gcassidy

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99COBRA2881 said:
I guess they work, they help prevent a high pressure pocket to develop in the front wheel wells. Or atleast thats what KB claimed, they were on the car when I bought it. I may look into building something similar to this if there is enough interest? Im not sure how much engine heat they help extract as the inner fender sheet metal is all still in place.
Gotcha. I see what you mean if the inner fender is still intact.

After spending time on corner-carvers ruminating about ways to track how much strut tower braces work (it involved scribes, machinists blue on steel plates, and zip ties on PVC piping), we should work on a way to test the validity of reducing the high pressure area.

I'm thinking a small bullet camera, bright streamers taped inside the wheel-well, and duct tape over the vents. :thumbsup:
 

99COBRA2881

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or just adapt a proven design to work on mustangs. I think a vent over the wheels would be most effecient and offer the most benefits or like you maybe Ive just been drooling through the Paul Bird and the C6R threads way too much lately!!
 

majinprodigy

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i love the progress you've made on the hood carlos, i remember a year ago seeing this i was intrigued and youve taken it farther then id ever have imaged...
i kind of got into it myself and got an 'experiment' hood which might some day become my main one as well

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99COBRA2881

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That hood right there needs this done to it.
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Tilt the bottom of the radiator back a few degrees, box it in up front and seal it up against the hood! I hope to do something like this on my race car but with the ducting being attached to the radiator not to the hood.

The above pic also shows the fender vents that I mentioned earlier.
 
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racebronco2

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99COBRA2881 said:
That hood right there needs this done to it.
chevrolet-corvette-c6r-06.jpg


The above pic also shows the fender vents that I mentioned earlier.

The vents on the fender are a good idea except for the rocks that get thrown around while driving, they would dent the underside of the fender. I like the vents that are the side of your car. I have seen a few aix cars with a slot cut into the fender behind the factory flare.
 

gcassidy

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Looking at the Vette hood scares the sh*t out of me when I think of the amount of re-plumbing of cooling lines, etc it would take. :eek:
 

brkntrxn

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Well, I guess I need to start looking into this as well. I encountered the dreaded hot temp situation this weekend on the track. Kinda sucks to run a few hard laps, hang close to some good drivers and then have to back off when they give you the point-by because your temps are rising.

The cheaper alternative would be to run winter only events, LOL.
 

03 DSG Snake

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A larger radiator will by itself reduce the cooling air flow with the existing inlets, vents, and air dams. It does this because it is more of a restriction to air flow than the thinner stocker.

So basically a larger radiator without attention to some sort of air flow increase may produce results that are somewhat less than we had desired.

Would new vents for the stocker help like the ones made by Fiore? They definitely look to allow more air through... :read:
 

Venomous01

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A larger radiator will by itself reduce the cooling air flow with the existing inlets, vents, and air dams. It does this because it is more of a restriction to air flow than the thinner stocker.

So basically a larger radiator without attention to some sort of air flow increase may produce results that are somewhat less than we had desired.
Interesting.

I'm thinking of going to a Fluidyne Radiator on my 98, but I may have to rethink that.
 

brkntrxn

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I was going to only have 4 louvers but since the hood recessed area is already lowered 2 inches it didn't look right.

Probably on a stock hood 2 or 3 would be just right.

I was told by an well known racer that if i were to put louvers back about halfway that it would not only cool even better then now but in his testing it also provide some downforce.


Carlos,

Need some advice from you. I purchased the hood we discussed via PM and I want to start planning out the project. If you were to do yours over again, would you change anything using a stock 03 hood? Would you still make your own louvres versus purchasing a universal set from Tiger and modifying them to fit into the recessed areas?

I read (either in this thread or the other one) that you used aluminum slats for the louvres. Care to give the specs on them? And since I have zero experience working with fiberglass, is there a good source for me to read up on the subject?
 

racebronco2

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Carlos,
Need some advice from you. I purchased the hood we discussed via PM and I want to start planning out the project. If you were to do yours over again, would you change anything using a stock 03 hood? Would you still make your own louvres versus purchasing a universal set from Tiger and modifying them to fit into the recessed areas?

I read (either in this thread or the other one) that you used aluminum slats for the louvres. Care to give the specs on them? And since I have zero experience working with fiberglass, is there a good source for me to read up on the subject?

Either hood mod will reduce engine temps. The first one is easier to do. I would just put wire mesh over the openings. The tiger racing louvers will not fit the recess portion of our hoods correctly, that is why i used aluminum peices for the louvers. The louvers are 2" wide and 12" long. I spaced then 2" apart and the louvers are at 40 degrees, tried 45 degrees but it didn't look right. In my opinion looking at the car from the side you should not be able to see the engine. At 40 degrees looking the car from the side the botton edge of one louver is vertical to the top edge of the previous louver. I cut each louver by hand for the location it was going to be in. I also had the underside built up previously from the first mod so all i had to do was to cut grooves into the hood with a hacksaw the thickness of the aluminum. I used epoxy to hold the louvers in place. I can't remember the exact name of the book but it showed how to customize your car, from fender flairs to cutting windshields.
 

racebronco2

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Interesting.

I'm thinking of going to a Fluidyne Radiator on my 98, but I may have to rethink that.

You just need to box in your radiator inlet so that whatever air goes into the inlet it must go thru your radiator. I among other posted several pictures showing what we did.
 

brkntrxn

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Thanks for the reply and the info. I'll search for the book you mentioned and see what kind of trouble I can get myself into.
 

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