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Engine/Tuning
Yes, I am a Moron - Electrical guys help!
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<blockquote data-quote="wjurls" data-source="post: 5284983" data-attributes="member: 50731"><p>I don't usually like to get involved in electrical discussions due to lots of dissagreements and missinformation but I would like to clarify that an alternator only produces enough current to meet it's demand at the time. A 150 Amp alternator may only produce 20 amps of current if all that's on at the time is the engine and maybe the dash lights. Ever notice when you go to jump a dead car how the running cars alt start to howl when you connect the cable to the dead car? If they were always producing max current they would always howl and probably only last a few days. </p><p>On that note I still wouldn't use the "disconnect the cable" method on any computer controlled vehicle. For one it is a largely unreliable method and the main point is that battery acts as a real nice buffer for the electrical system to help surpress voltage spikes and sags. You take a chance of a nice electrical spike when you disconnect the cable on a running car (especially if you have a bad regulator and your voltage is too high). Your best bet is to remove the alternator and go get it load tested. Or you can take the car in and have the whole starting/ charging system tested.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="wjurls, post: 5284983, member: 50731"] I don't usually like to get involved in electrical discussions due to lots of dissagreements and missinformation but I would like to clarify that an alternator only produces enough current to meet it's demand at the time. A 150 Amp alternator may only produce 20 amps of current if all that's on at the time is the engine and maybe the dash lights. Ever notice when you go to jump a dead car how the running cars alt start to howl when you connect the cable to the dead car? If they were always producing max current they would always howl and probably only last a few days. On that note I still wouldn't use the "disconnect the cable" method on any computer controlled vehicle. For one it is a largely unreliable method and the main point is that battery acts as a real nice buffer for the electrical system to help surpress voltage spikes and sags. You take a chance of a nice electrical spike when you disconnect the cable on a running car (especially if you have a bad regulator and your voltage is too high). Your best bet is to remove the alternator and go get it load tested. Or you can take the car in and have the whole starting/ charging system tested. [/QUOTE]
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