Yes another set of springs on the Boss
- Thread starter cobra1718
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I believe they are Ford Racing wheels 19x9 front and Rear with SVT Center Cap.
yes but 19X10 rear
thanks for the help
That not a pick of my car that a pic of a boss 302s at the ford assembly plant . When i was running my steeda sport springs on my car i was using these Strano Performance Parts - Part Details to reset my lower control arm angle . They help the car plant the rear tire better after I lower it .
Cloud9
When i was running the relocation bracket on my car i was using the upper hole to. It seem to work the best for me also .
When i was running the relocation bracket on my car i was using the upper hole to. It seem to work the best for me also .
Sorry I reread your post and saw that you said it was a 302S pic. The recommendation has since changed on the position to use the upper hole to attach the rear LCA. Yes they will help with traction in both a road course and drag racing application. You need them to correct the LCA angle after lowering the car.
Looks sweet. I just got a 13 base GT last week and ordered my sportlines as well. I should have them in by Thursady. I plan on getting camber bolts for the front. Any issues with the rear with the 2" drop. I've had sportlines on 2 previous cars. I think they provide just the right drop without beig slammed. Good choice.
With a 2" drop you'll definitely need an adj panhard bar, LCA relo brackets and shorter jounce bumpers. That said there's room. Mine's dropped 1" and you could probably go another 1" without an issue. I have coilovers on my GT500 and while I never measured the original height from stock, I'm sure I was easily down 2" on my track setup.
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Because of the above requirement and because I didn't want to go through the hassle again of changing front springs and doing another alignment I have put the eibach prokit back in. I have a track day planned also I wanted to give the prokit a try
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My buddy has a 2011 on the sportlines. All he got where front camber bolts and an adjustable panhard bar. That was enough to get him onto specs.
Do most wheel/tire shops know enough about these adjustments to do it properly? Meaning is it pretty easy to see visually or with tools that a car is in or out of spec?
I will definitely be doing springs on a '13 GT Brembos and don't want to be out of spec but not knowledgeable enough to do the adjustments myself.
I cannot find the Brembo spring rate. Are these springs the same rate as the Boss or the GT ???
op:The Brembo spring rate is softer than Boss but more than a GT. Here a link that list the spring rates of the GT, Brembo GT, Boss 302 and the LS Boss 302 Brembo50.com - Car Specs & Info it about half way down the page .
What did you think of the ride quality of the Steeda Boss springs compared to the other springs?
I went with the Koni Yellow and Steeda Boss springs in my GT per Strano's recommendations. They are great on a smooth road and keep the car level in turns. But seem to ride very harsh over larger bumps.
Ok the verdict is in. I ran 4 sessions this past Saturday. With the Eiback prokit and the shocks and struts set at 5 on all four corners I definitely need the relocation brackets. The rear did not plant as expected and at times the car got loose in the corners. The above setup, does it require a different lower control arm? Thanks for help anyone?
stop.
stop right now. you are a novice, correct? i can tell you from experience and every other experienced track driver here will back me up. you dont know nearly enough about driving on a race track to make that judgement.
its more likely that your car was loose because of the way you were driving it as opposed to something being wrong with the car. its more likely that if the car was ill handling, that it was a result of your modifications from stock than a need for MORE modifications.
if you turn in at the wrong spot, your car can show oversteer. if you turn in with too much speed, it can oversteer. if you get back to the gas too early or too hard, the back end can step out. if your tires air pressure are off by as little as a single pound of air rear to front, it can be loose. if you are running street tires and running a track tire line, the can can get unsettled.
all of that can be and should be addressed before you change the hardware on your car.
where was it loose? on turn in? in the center? on exit under power? was it in the left hand corners or the right hand or both? what were your pressures?
i am a baseline, middle of the pack racer. i am not tony stewart or dean martin. i still know this. i check and adjust my pressures if my car is off. if that doesnt fix it, i adjust my shock settings. if it still needs more, i change my spring rates.
messing with your springs and your geometry and so forth are major changes that you should be careful about.
i'll put this another way. the boss 302 was heavily developed by ford motor company to handle in the corners of a race course and the properly handle the horsepower provided in the factory package. this has been confirmed by numerous experienced drivers who reviewed the car when introduced.
you are a track novice. before you have even taken the car to the track to get to know both the car on the track and driving on the track in general, you have changed the basic set up of the car. how can you possibly know what the proper settings should be?
my advice is that if you want springs to make the car look cool for the street, leave it as it is. when you go to the race track next, put the stock set up back on the car and get plenty of proper instruction at the race track on your driving before you monkey with the car anymore.
the loose is much more likely your driving right now than the car, but its hard to know for sure because its been changed already
Rob is correct on this. The stock setup is very neutral on the factory stagger tires front to rear whether on street tires, r-comps or slicks. I didn't touch the suspension for over a years and 100+ sessions. I switched to the complete 302S package because it was developed and tested as a system. Since I run slicks, I was overwhelming the stock springs and bushings creating too much roll and brake dive. I have hundreds of sessions on a road course in a Mustang so I have a pretty good feel for the S197 chassis.
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Thanks I think. The reason I asked the question is to take advantage of any possible improvements I can make to compensate for my inexperience. I was with an instructor and felt that all went well. Please be easy on me here. I did not come in here like I knew everything. The bottom line is I am not going to put the stock springs back in but instead use the car as is and ask for humble advise. And btw thank you!
OP did you use the stock strut mounts?
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