Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Cobra Forums
The Terminator
Exhaust
x pipe install ?'s
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="stevieb" data-source="post: 964426" data-attributes="member: 10837"><p>Yes the mil eliminators are required for a non catted pipe only. The 02 sensors are easy, they are color coded and side specific.</p><p></p><p> So be sure to put them in the exact same hole on the new pipe when changing them over.</p><p>Now here is the most crucial part, if you mess up here you'll wish you never started.</p><p>When doing the right side nuts on the exhaust manifold, the inside one closest to the starter follow these steps to avoid serious grief.</p><p></p><p>First only use a 6 point deep 15mm socket not a 12 point and be sure it is a good one not a cheap one, next</p><p></p><p>the socket is not going to go on very well because it will hit the frame, it will appear to be on, but the oem nuts are on super mofo tight, (and it is here where you will find that Ford literally shoehorned the engine into the car) </p><p>To be sure its on before you start hanging on the ratchet go out from under the car and look between the body and wheel well plastic from behind the r/f tire, if it appears crooked </p><p>DONT TRY TO TAKE IT OFF, THE SOCKET CAN SPIN ON THE NUT AND IF THE NUT STARTS ROUNDING YOU ARE DOOMED FOR MEGA HOURS WITH A CHISEL/MIRRORS OR A SURGEON WITH A TORCH.</p><p>If the socket is not square to the flange of the nut, the easiest way to make it fit without cutting down the socket is to remove the nut on the r/h motor mount and jack up the engine about 1/2 inch. This will give the socket enough room to sit on the nut squarely.</p><p>What I used was a 1" wobbly ext on the socket, followed by about a 4", then a impact universal followed by a long ext to the ratchet. This worked well. If you use too many universal joints you will not get enough torque to remove the stubborn nut, this also gets you past the cats to turn the ratchet cleanly. </p><p></p><p>Spray the nuts with penetrating oil about 15 mins B4 you start too. If you dont strip that nut you can do the job in about an hour by yourself. If you strip the nut like I did, well...Dont go there right now. Just use a good socket and make sure its on square on.</p><p>Sorry for the long post and sounding like mother hen, the job is simple but you just have to be careful of that one nut. I also dont reccommend using the same gasket over, gaskets are meant to be used once only. The gasket is only about 5 bucks.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="stevieb, post: 964426, member: 10837"] Yes the mil eliminators are required for a non catted pipe only. The 02 sensors are easy, they are color coded and side specific. So be sure to put them in the exact same hole on the new pipe when changing them over. Now here is the most crucial part, if you mess up here you'll wish you never started. When doing the right side nuts on the exhaust manifold, the inside one closest to the starter follow these steps to avoid serious grief. First only use a 6 point deep 15mm socket not a 12 point and be sure it is a good one not a cheap one, next the socket is not going to go on very well because it will hit the frame, it will appear to be on, but the oem nuts are on super mofo tight, (and it is here where you will find that Ford literally shoehorned the engine into the car) To be sure its on before you start hanging on the ratchet go out from under the car and look between the body and wheel well plastic from behind the r/f tire, if it appears crooked DONT TRY TO TAKE IT OFF, THE SOCKET CAN SPIN ON THE NUT AND IF THE NUT STARTS ROUNDING YOU ARE DOOMED FOR MEGA HOURS WITH A CHISEL/MIRRORS OR A SURGEON WITH A TORCH. If the socket is not square to the flange of the nut, the easiest way to make it fit without cutting down the socket is to remove the nut on the r/h motor mount and jack up the engine about 1/2 inch. This will give the socket enough room to sit on the nut squarely. What I used was a 1" wobbly ext on the socket, followed by about a 4", then a impact universal followed by a long ext to the ratchet. This worked well. If you use too many universal joints you will not get enough torque to remove the stubborn nut, this also gets you past the cats to turn the ratchet cleanly. Spray the nuts with penetrating oil about 15 mins B4 you start too. If you dont strip that nut you can do the job in about an hour by yourself. If you strip the nut like I did, well...Dont go there right now. Just use a good socket and make sure its on square on. Sorry for the long post and sounding like mother hen, the job is simple but you just have to be careful of that one nut. I also dont reccommend using the same gasket over, gaskets are meant to be used once only. The gasket is only about 5 bucks. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Cobra Forums
The Terminator
Exhaust
x pipe install ?'s
Top