ok, I got an o/r x pipe, is the install pretty easy, like a catback? are the 02 sensors jsut unscrewing them and putting them back into the bungs for the o/r pipe? thanks
do I need any gaskets or anything?
do I need any gaskets or anything?
x pipe install ?'s
- Thread starter JaketheSnake
- Start date
fubu795
Banned
The X-pipe is super easy to install. I got a UPR and they didnt supply all the bolts I needed, just had to run to the local hardware store to get them. You only need o re-use the passenger side gasket that comes off when you take the factory H-pipe off. I got all the bolts on myself but the passenger side bolts are hard to tighten because you need a bunch of swivels. I took my car to midas and they tightened all my bolts for free. Hope this helps.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
what bolts did you need? I bought this used and it has no bolts, hopefully me and my friend have enough swivels to tighten it
fubu795
Banned
well size of the bolt isnt a big factor, you need the bolt to be wide and also put washers on both ends or else when you tighten the bolts they will come right through. kinda hard to explain. You dont need the MIL eliminators unless you cant get over seeing the check engine light, it in no way harms the performance of the car, mine has been on for 2000 miles now. the o2 sensors require a 1 inch open end wrench to take off. Quick tip, take them off once you get the factory H-pipe down, alot easier then trying to get them off with the H-pipe still in place. I only have a jack and jackstands to use, its kinda hard to leverage any kinda good muscle to tighten the bolts. We got them on tight but I heard the famous ticking sound from leaking air from the collector bolts. MIDAS used an air gun and I was outa there in 2 minutes. The back bolts that connnect ton the cat-back should be able to be re-used with the x-pipe, atleast thats what I did. You can call me if you have any questions, be more then glad to help yah 412-708-4437
thanks a lot man, I have the predator so i can shut the check engine light off no problem, so my stock bolts wont fit than?
fubu795
Banned
well they should but definitly need the washers. All pipes are different but UPR's xpipe is 2 pieces, it connects in the middle. Also the holes in the pipe on my xpipe are wider then the stock and thats where the washers come into place, if you dont use the washers the bolts will slide right through the holes. I know it sounds confusing. I do alot of exhaust installs for my friends and I, only think I do is start installing it and make sure you have another vehicle to run and get parts if need be. Worst case scenerio is you need a few things, any general hardware store should have what you need.
Yes the mil eliminators are required for a non catted pipe only. The 02 sensors are easy, they are color coded and side specific.
So be sure to put them in the exact same hole on the new pipe when changing them over.
Now here is the most crucial part, if you mess up here you'll wish you never started.
When doing the right side nuts on the exhaust manifold, the inside one closest to the starter follow these steps to avoid serious grief.
First only use a 6 point deep 15mm socket not a 12 point and be sure it is a good one not a cheap one, next
the socket is not going to go on very well because it will hit the frame, it will appear to be on, but the oem nuts are on super mofo tight, (and it is here where you will find that Ford literally shoehorned the engine into the car)
To be sure its on before you start hanging on the ratchet go out from under the car and look between the body and wheel well plastic from behind the r/f tire, if it appears crooked
DONT TRY TO TAKE IT OFF, THE SOCKET CAN SPIN ON THE NUT AND IF THE NUT STARTS ROUNDING YOU ARE DOOMED FOR MEGA HOURS WITH A CHISEL/MIRRORS OR A SURGEON WITH A TORCH.
If the socket is not square to the flange of the nut, the easiest way to make it fit without cutting down the socket is to remove the nut on the r/h motor mount and jack up the engine about 1/2 inch. This will give the socket enough room to sit on the nut squarely.
What I used was a 1" wobbly ext on the socket, followed by about a 4", then a impact universal followed by a long ext to the ratchet. This worked well. If you use too many universal joints you will not get enough torque to remove the stubborn nut, this also gets you past the cats to turn the ratchet cleanly.
Spray the nuts with penetrating oil about 15 mins B4 you start too. If you dont strip that nut you can do the job in about an hour by yourself. If you strip the nut like I did, well...Dont go there right now. Just use a good socket and make sure its on square on.
Sorry for the long post and sounding like mother hen, the job is simple but you just have to be careful of that one nut. I also dont reccommend using the same gasket over, gaskets are meant to be used once only. The gasket is only about 5 bucks.
So be sure to put them in the exact same hole on the new pipe when changing them over.
Now here is the most crucial part, if you mess up here you'll wish you never started.
When doing the right side nuts on the exhaust manifold, the inside one closest to the starter follow these steps to avoid serious grief.
First only use a 6 point deep 15mm socket not a 12 point and be sure it is a good one not a cheap one, next
the socket is not going to go on very well because it will hit the frame, it will appear to be on, but the oem nuts are on super mofo tight, (and it is here where you will find that Ford literally shoehorned the engine into the car)
To be sure its on before you start hanging on the ratchet go out from under the car and look between the body and wheel well plastic from behind the r/f tire, if it appears crooked
DONT TRY TO TAKE IT OFF, THE SOCKET CAN SPIN ON THE NUT AND IF THE NUT STARTS ROUNDING YOU ARE DOOMED FOR MEGA HOURS WITH A CHISEL/MIRRORS OR A SURGEON WITH A TORCH.
If the socket is not square to the flange of the nut, the easiest way to make it fit without cutting down the socket is to remove the nut on the r/h motor mount and jack up the engine about 1/2 inch. This will give the socket enough room to sit on the nut squarely.
What I used was a 1" wobbly ext on the socket, followed by about a 4", then a impact universal followed by a long ext to the ratchet. This worked well. If you use too many universal joints you will not get enough torque to remove the stubborn nut, this also gets you past the cats to turn the ratchet cleanly.
Spray the nuts with penetrating oil about 15 mins B4 you start too. If you dont strip that nut you can do the job in about an hour by yourself. If you strip the nut like I did, well...Dont go there right now. Just use a good socket and make sure its on square on.
Sorry for the long post and sounding like mother hen, the job is simple but you just have to be careful of that one nut. I also dont reccommend using the same gasket over, gaskets are meant to be used once only. The gasket is only about 5 bucks.
my buddys g/f works at Ace which is like 2 mis away so we get a huge discount and we have done headers on my ws6, alll our ohter exhaust stuff, so im not worried, the xpipe is a bbk btw if that helps
oh he has a lightning to pick things up too lol
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