I am looking for an IMRC controller box (96-98 Cobra) that is non functional to take apart for research and potential repair. Hence, the box must be broken.
Let me know what you have and price.
Let me know what you have and price.
WTB: 96 - 98 IMRC controller box - must be broken
- Thread starter Tillerman77
- Start date
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- imrc imrc control module
Still looking.
I can send you one that you an fix, i do want it back and would need a price. My understanding is the sensor that the ecu monitors if they are open or closed goes out. When testing the units, the ohms constantly changes which means they are bad. If the ohms stop almost instantly they are good. pm sent.
I placed this WTB listing for a fellow forum member, Mark Olson (@mwolson), who is the person doing the diagnostics and potential repair. He lives in CA as well, so I will let the two of you work out the details as I am just a middleman.
Thanks,
Scott
Thanks,
Scott
was talking with mwolson on different thread and suggested I contact you about purchasing a refurbished IMRC actuator w/cables. My '97 threw the stuck IMRC code and as I was in process of cleaning, realized my right cable was snapped. I still have the part as pictured. Thanks,
I do have a spare, but as hard as they are to find, I am going to keep it. That said, I have been following your other threads and if I see a box for sale I will let you know. Good luck in your search.
I like my '97 and the engine a lot, but I have learned you have to plan ahead on parts searches, as some of the engine items are hard to get. Functional IMRC plates make all of the difference on the stock motor for a smooth power curve.
On a related note, have you cleaned your IMRC plates yet?
I like my '97 and the engine a lot, but I have learned you have to plan ahead on parts searches, as some of the engine items are hard to get. Functional IMRC plates make all of the difference on the stock motor for a smooth power curve.
On a related note, have you cleaned your IMRC plates yet?
I have a new in ford box one for 160 shipped paypal
Yes, I had plenty of time to clean them while searching for replacement cable or box. Have them wrapped in plastic to cut down on dust.
I would like to purchase. Here is my email address if you could send me [email protected]...
Sounds like you are almost set as far as getting it back on the road. The last time I cleaned the plates a few years ago, it took a while to get the gasket set (assuming that you are not reusing the old ones).
I was re-using the old ones. inspected the silicone and there are no rips or tears. Did you change yours because they were damaged?
My IMRC cleaning project was done during a time I wouldn't have been driving the car anyways, so I got them for "insurance" for a no issue re-installation. I did keep the old ones, as they were in decent shape. As information, my car had a CEL (P1519) for Bank 1 IMRC plates stuck closed. After research and discussions with Mark Olson about testing the controller, we went ahead and pulled it apart. As it turns out, my original controller box tested fine at home and was also tested by Mark in CA. I had found a good condition used controller from a 98 that I got with the resin IMRC plates. My 97 is running with the 98 controller and the the original aluminum IMRC plates (cleaned thoroughly as that was the cause of my CEL). I have my 97 controller and 98 resin plates as back ups. Mark had strongly recommended installing an oil catch can to reduce the speed of gunking up the plates, which I did (JLT).
Is there a write-up on the oil catch can? And I may go your route with new gaskets...just found set for $40. Also, did you replace o-rings on injectors while you were performing this cleaning process? Seems like a good time to do.
I did not replace the O rings but this would be a great time to do so. Regarding the oil catch can write up, are you looking for a DIY catch can or a commercial product? The one I got is from JLT (i.e. commercial product).
Looked up JLT...thanks, will buy and install
A shot of our installation. The light line above the bracket was our reference mark using a silver Sharpie. It definitely catches oil vapor, which should slow down the gunking up of the IMRC plates.
Awesome...thanks for pic! Is the can secured to the wall? looks like a few sheet metal screws. was that your doing or did it come with mounting bracket?
Thanks. The JLT can comes with a bracket and screws. The bracket is black, which is why it is hard to see against the plastic firewall panel. You may be able to see it a little better in this photo. It has JLT laser cut into it. We added some longer PCV hose for our installation.
Happy New Year...I finally caught a break in kids athletic schedule and will be putting everything back together next weekend. You said you've done this before and was was wondering if there's anything that I should be aware of when re-starting car? I plan on leaving antifreeze cap off so radiator can burp itself but other than that I'm not sure what to expect. Thanks for any insight you could give me.
Thanks and Happy New Year to you as well.
When you say everything is put back together, are you referring to the cleaned IMRC plates/intake manifolds? If yes, just go over all of your bolts and hardware that was removed and make sure everything is back in place and tight (if it is supposed to be tight). If you took pictures along the way during disassembly, refer to them and make sure all the connections look correct (highly recommended practice BTW).
Also, do you mean the crossover tube cap with O-ring when you said radiator cap?
When you say everything is put back together, are you referring to the cleaned IMRC plates/intake manifolds? If yes, just go over all of your bolts and hardware that was removed and make sure everything is back in place and tight (if it is supposed to be tight). If you took pictures along the way during disassembly, refer to them and make sure all the connections look correct (highly recommended practice BTW).
Also, do you mean the crossover tube cap with O-ring when you said radiator cap?
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