Write-up/Review - MMR Front Coilover Set-Up

[No Such Luck]

Well I recently purchased MMR's front coilover set-up for my 03 Cobra. I would like to express some concerns I had with the kit and tell you how I like it so far. I want to let everyone know that I am a big fan of MMR, so don't think this is a bash thread or anything like that.

THE GOOD STUFF- Right off the bat, let me say that now that these coilovers are installed, they are AMAZING! :worship2: The car sits great. They are decently easy to adjust, i'll get to that alittle later. They ride F'ing great. I also gained about another 1/4 turn in the steering wheel because of them, which is awesome, because as everyone who drives a Cobra knows, we basically get alittle more then 1 turn, and thats it.

THE BAD STUFF-. #1, There were alot of modifications needed not only to the strut but to the stock cc plates also. Kinda didn't like that, and let me tell you why. I CAN NOT go back to stock now, even if I wanted to. I had to hack up alot of my stock pieces to make this kit fit. In my opinion, the things that I had to cut up to make the kit work probably could have been INCLUDED with the coilover kit for maybe 10 dollars more, and I would with out a doubt be willing to pay 10 more dollars for the kit. Just as an FYI, the pieces that had to be cut up were a metal sleave that goes though the top strut bushing had to be cut 3/8 of an inch, and the dust cover bushing had to be cut to take the rubber piece off. Basically what I am saying is... I don't see why MMR wouldn't include those things. All they would have to do is make an inch long metal sleeve, and a 1/4 inch thick rubber bushing, and this kit would have almost been totally modification free. (See picture 1)

#2, The directions were HORRIBLE. I'm sorry, but so many things were unclear, and they liked to throw little "tid-bits" in the middle that happen to be VERY IMPORTANT. Not to refer to a competiter, but thank god for Maximum Motorsports directions on their site, or this install would have been harder then it already was.

For example, #8 on their directions states...

You are now ready to install the coilover. Remove the factory black dustboot with the rubber pushing at the top. Begin by placing the threaded sleeve and adjusters over the strut and line up the notch on the bottom of the threaded sleeve with the strut. MM highly recommends a light coating of oil on the threads of the adjusters to help them easily adjust, prevent seizing, and galling over time. (Which I did, and highly recommend also.)Most struts will require the ring at the top of the strut body to be removed, this can be grinded down, or sometimes tapped off with a hammer and punch.

OK, not bad, but which is it? Can I grind it? Should I grind It? Can I hammer the piece off without damaging the strut? Which struts need this to be done? Well refering to MM's directions, it clearly stated that the Bilstein struts need a tab to be grinded down, and the Tokico struts (the ones I have) have to be hammered off. They even showed a picture of how to do it.

Here's my favorite one... #12 on the direction sheet...

You can now place a jack back under the A-arm and guide the coil over assembly back into the vehicle. Now working on the engine compartment side, reinstall the factory rubber bushing and steel sleeve, before installing, the steel sleeve must be cut shortened 3.8 inch (if using stock CC plates only) Now install the factory washer and nut and tighten. You may need to apply some downward pressure on the nut as you turn it to compress the rubber bushing allowing the threads to grab.

Are you kidding me!?!? They just kinda threw that in there. O by the way, you have to cut this steel sleeve before you are ready to install. How am I supposed to cut that? You need some kind of spinning wheel or something to cut it, luckly, I had one at work that I was able to use. Oh, and BTW, that whole step DIDN'T WORK!!! I tried it. I tried to be good, and follow all the directions since I never did a coilover install before. Well here's what happened. I put the coilover back on the knuckle, and lifted the A-arm until the strut reached the tower, except it never did. The spring was to heavy, and the jack and the weight of the car couldn't compress it. It started to jack the car off the stands. From what I saw today, THERE IS NO WAY TO PUT THAT STRUT TOGETHER UNLESS YOU HAVE A SPRING COMPRESSOR, which I just happened to have (See picture 2 below). Even with the compressor, I was only able to get about 3 threads in on the bolt, and the rest I got when I put the car back on the ground with the tires on.

OK, so finally, I get everything done. I tap off the hat on top of the strut. I cut the bushing off of the dust cover. I cut the metal sleeve for the top bushing. I compress the springs, and put the coilover together. (See picture 3 below). Now it is time to install them in the car. To be honest, it was pretty easy. I first put the assembled coilover into the knuckle. Put the bolts in, and hand tightened the nuts. Then, i put a jack under the A-arm and lifted the strut until the whole assembly, including the CC plate fit back into the strut tower. This WORKED!!! Each side went on pretty easy. Tightened up everything, and bam... done, right? WRONG!

#14 on the directions...

Be sure to set the adjusters at an even height, a good starting point is 1-2 inches from the bottom.

This, I can't really blame MMR for, because every car is probably different. Be here was my experence. I set the coilover to 1 inch from the bottom to start. I did that because the coilovers were HARD to raise, even with the oil and the WD-40 that I added later. So i put the tire on, and guess what, the tire was rubbing against the coilover spring. OK, maybe this was because it was in the air. So I lowered the car and took in around the block. NOPE! The spring was rubbing on both tires. Fine... I was starting to get mad. I WD-40'd the shit out of the sleeve, and adjusted it 3/4's of an inch, because now, it REALLY wasn't moving anymore. So now I am up 1 3/4 inch from the bottom. Put the tires back on, and NO RUBBING! Thank god! Having said that, I haven't driven the car more the a mile since putting them on, but I am going to a shop about 40 minutes away from me tomorrow (Difeo Ford) and it will be a good test if there is any rubbing or anything like that.

The install SUCKED! Atleast a moderate Mechenic is needed to install these. Air tools are NEEDED. The spring compressers are NEEDED. 2 installers is extremely helpful.

First impressions of the coilovers... Amazing. Drive quality went up 10 fold. Turning radius is bigger. The ride is smoother. The coilovers don't make noise. They look good. The coilovers are alittle more expensive, but it is so worth it to do over springs. I can't believe I waited 3 years to do these.

THESE COILOVERS ARE A REALLY GOOD PRODUCT, BUT IN MY OPINION, THE KIT WAS INCOMPLETE, AND THE DIRECTIONS WERE LACKING.

Other then that, they are amazing. Here are some pictures. I'll update as I think of things. I will also keep you posted on how they drive a long distance.

Picture 1

Picture 2

Picture 3

Finished Product

 

[IronTerp]

Wow.....that sounds like a nightmare install. Just shouldn't be that difficult. I recently installed UPR coilovers and it literally took minutes. But, I have MM caster camber plates which may of made the install easier. Glad at least you're happy with the end result.

 

[gcassidy]

A question, because I can't tell for sure in the pics, and I'm not completely up on how all coilover kits work.

With the sleve over the strut, what is supporting the bottom of it? Where are the major stresses going when the suspension is compressing?

Is it just from the notch that goes over the lower mounts? Or is there a lip that supports the sleeve all the way around?

 

[No Such Luck]

There is a notch that goes around the bottom of the strut. That is where all the pressure is. Honestly, I'm not sure if that is a good or bad thing, but alot of people seem to like coilover set up's and have no problems with them, so hopefully, it will be ok.

 

[MFE]

Coilovers on stock CC plates, huh?

MMR is the new X2C, aren't they?

 

[03cobramanIII]

dam you didnt change the k memeber while you were at it.?

 

[No Such Luck]

dam you didnt change the k memeber while you were at it.?

It's on my list of things to do, lol. Car's getting a Solid rear in as we speak, so have to get the funds up again.

 

[sunburned]

I have MMR coilovers and didn't have a problem installing mine with MM's directions. I had MM c/c plates already though, no way I'd do that install on stock plates. I think thats where most of the problem was, since I didn't have to cut up my car at all, and wouldn't go back to stock anyway.

There is a notch that goes around the bottom of the strut. That is where all the pressure is. Honestly, I'm not sure if that is a good or bad thing, but alot of people seem to like coilover set up's and have no problems with them, so hopefully, it will be ok.

The MMR coilover sleeve sits on a lip built into the strut, so the entire bottom of the sleeve is supported. The notch goes over the legs where the strut bolts to the spindle, which keeps the sleeve from spinning. That's something MM doesn't have...

 

[MFE]

I have MMR coilovers and didn't have a problem installing mine with MM's directions. I had MM c/c plates already though, no way I'd do that install on stock plates. I think thats where most of the problem was, since I didn't have to cut up my car at all, and wouldn't go back to stock anyway.



The MMR coilover sleeve sits on a lip built into the strut, so the entire bottom of the sleeve is supported. The notch goes over the legs where the strut bolts to the spindle, which keeps the sleeve from spinning. That's something MM doesn't have...

The MM sleeve does the exact same thing, and also can't spin.

Swell of you guys to use MM's instructions to install cheap copycat junk :beer:

 

[sunburned]

The MM sleeve does the exact same thing, and also can't spin.

I installed a set of MM coilovers a month or two ago. From what I remember, there is a thick aluminum ring that clamps onto the strut body just above the ears where the strut bolts to the spindle. The threaded sleeve sits on a small groove in this ring. Nowhere on either part is a notch to prevent the sleeve from spinning. A close friend of mine is a MM dealer and his biggest complaint about their coilovers is the sleeve spins when you try to turn the spring perch.

Swell of you guys to use MM's instructions to install cheap copycat junk :beer:

Um, they put the instructions online. Last I checked, that was free roam, so why do you care? And I guess maximum motorsports was the first company to ever make sleeve coilovers, right?

 

[Coiled03]

Coilover with stock plates? :nonono: Here's hoping you don't cave your shock towers.

 

[MFE]

MM coilover sleeve as installed on strut, installed 2 weeks ago. No "ring" other than the lower spring perch that threads onto the sleeve, which also can't "spin", it might move 1/4 inch before being held in place by the ears on the strut, and once it's loaded by spring pressure it doesn't move at all.

As for why I care? I just have this sore spot for the sphincter-ticklers of the world who see a good product, copy it outright, and sell it for cheaper because they compromise on manufacturing and because they didn't invest a dollar in the design or engineering.

I also have a well-developed appreciation for irony, which is why I find the humor in people buying copycats to save a buck and then finding that the instructions suck so bad they have to rely on the good grace of the company whose engineering they were too cheap to support so they can figure out how to put the copy together.

 

[rickymh]

coilovers on stock cc plates? good luck with the wheel alignment with those stock cc plates.

 

[No Such Luck]

Trust me everyone, I plan on getting the MM CC plates very very soon.

I don't think the MMR coilovers are junk. Actually I think the exact opposite. Why should I pay almost 500 dollars for the MM set when the MMR set was 1/3 of the cost. To me, they are the same thing. Both seem to work just fine. Just my opinion.

 

[03 DSG Snake]

Trust me everyone, I plan on getting the MM CC plates very very soon.

I don't think the MMR coilovers are junk. Actually I think the exact opposite. Why should I pay almost 500 dollars for the MM set when the MMR set was 1/3 of the cost. To me, they are the same thing. Both seem to work just fine. Just my opinion.

The MMR coil over kit looks good.


You would have had a much easier time putting them in along with some C/C plates, most people do this for more support of the coil overs anyways.

You just took the long way around :beer:

 

[sunburned]

I don't think the MMR coilovers are junk. Actually I think the exact opposite. Why should I pay almost 500 dollars for the MM set when the MMR set was 1/3 of the cost. To me, they are the same thing. Both seem to work just fine. Just my opinion.

The MMR coil over kit looks good.

You would have had a much easier time putting them in along with some C/C plates, most people do this for more support of the coil overs anyways.

Yes and yes. MM says you should only use 4 bolt c/c plates with coilovers because the stock sheet metal plates can't support the full weight of the front of the car. I'd be very careful with those stock pieces. I once hit a small curb with my front wheel hard enough to blow out the sidewall of the tire and bend a brand new UPR steel 3 bolt c/c plate, as well as the shock tower. If I wouldn't have cheaped out and gotten MM 4 bolt plates in the first place, it probably would've held up.

 

[03 DSG Snake]

Yes and yes. MM says you should only use 4 bolt c/c plates with coilovers because the stock sheet metal plates can't support the full weight of the front of the car. I'd be very careful with those stock pieces. I once hit a small curb with my front wheel hard enough to blow out the sidewall of the tire and bend a brand new UPR steel 3 bolt c/c plate, as well as the shock tower. If I wouldn't have cheaped out and gotten MM 4 bolt plates in the first place, it probably would've held up.

I did THIS to my strut, bent an A-arm and snapped and endlink; MM c/c plate and tower looks factory fresh epper: