Window Switch problem(no blown fuses) NEED HELP ASAP

Hurrycanestang

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Hey guys, quick window switch problem (I hope). Went downstairs a few minutes ago and started the car and rolled my windows down to put my top down. Well the back left window which needs a lil help sometimes was being a PITA and wouldn't go down, so when I tried to put my other windows back up, all of them don't move! I hear the window switch module clicking so I know it has power to it and none of the fuses are blown. What is my deal?
 

Hurrycanestang

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After researching a little, I have found that the switch module connections can get dirty overtime. I took it out and cleaned all the connection points, but still nothing. I can still hear the "signal" being sent after I push the up button but nothing happens. Im at a loss here.
 

shurur

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More questions than answers still.

Did you try the passenger side widow switch alone?

Also I'm seeing a window lock switch in the wiring diagram; although it looks like it only goes to the passenger window.
Maybe the diagram is wrong or maybe it's a child safety feature for that widow only.

I would say the windows are off track, but surely not all the windows at the same time....

Otherwise I'd take a first guess that your master window switch has lost a good ground (common)....
 
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Hurrycanestang

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More questions than answers still.

Did you try the passenger side widow switch alone?

Also I'm seeing a window lock switch in the wiring diagram; although it looks like it only goes to the passenger window.
Maybe the diagram is wrong or maybe it's a child safety feature for that widow only.

I would say the windows are off track, but surely not all the windows at the same time....

Otherwise I'd take a first guess that your master window switch has lost a good ground (common)....

Yeah I tried the passenger door switch and it was working fine. Im positive the windows aren't off track. I would have thought if I lost a ground the fuse would have blown the next time I hit the switch, or somewhere in the 100 times I hit the switch after it quit working lol.
 

shurur

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The passenger window switch working, points even more toward a ground problem on the "master window/door lock control switch." It may be a single black box relay unit.

I assume it is the unit in your drivers door arm rest.
The black wire is chassis ground.

pink OR lt blu/blk is power..but you must be getting that because the passenger side switch is working...


humor me; put the passenger window up with the passenger side switch, then try to put it down with the drivers side switch......
 
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01yellercobra

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Yeah I tried the passenger door switch and it was working fine. Im positive the windows aren't off track. I would have thought if I lost a ground the fuse would have blown the next time I hit the switch, or somewhere in the 100 times I hit the switch after it quit working lol.

A missing ground won't cause the fuse to blow. It just breaks the circuit which can cause the issue you're dealing with. A short to ground is what will blow fuses.
 

Hurrycanestang

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The passenger window switch working, points even more toward a ground problem on the "master window/door lock control switch." It may be a single black box relay unit.

I assume it is the unit in your drivers door arm rest.
The black wire is chassis ground.

pink OR lt blu/blk is power..but you must be getting that because the passenger side switch is working...


humor me; put the passenger window up with the passenger side switch, then try to put it down with the drivers side switch......

Passenger side switch operates the passenger window fine, the driver side switch doesn't move the passenger window at all. What would this relay unit look like. I appreciate the help guys, I'm not too electrical savvy.
 

shurur

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ok so once you put the pass window up, the drivers side switch cannot bring the pass window down??
be sure.
 
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shurur

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ok you are going to have to lift that armrest panel and get after the wiring on the drivers side switch "cluster"

slo984now do you have a better schematic than the haynes manual for this??
feel free to jump in..
 

Hurrycanestang

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ok you are going to have to lift that armrest panel and get after the wiring on the drivers side switch "cluster"

slo984now do you have a better schematic than the haynes manual for this??
feel free to jump in..

I have it out already, should I be looking for the ground and see if it is connected properly?

hold down the button and slam the door and see if that works.

Way ahead of you on that one buddy lol, but thanks
 

shurur

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yup..
you might see two black wires OR
one that is daisy chained....just guessing..

got a meter??
 
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shurur

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anyway..
you can ohmmeter them each for chassis ground, and/or see if they are connected to each other.

If they are not connected to each other and one is not going to ground..then turn the key on and check that no power is on them..them maybe jumper them. and test the window switch again.

if both are grounded then maybe the switch relay is bad..provided it is getting power..

if nothing is grounded then I think there is a ground lug behind the driver's side kick panel...
 
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Hurrycanestang

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So after no finding a loose wire I made a run to auto zone and bought a new window switch, tried it out and it was the same. I don't own a multimeter. Can you tell me where this bad relay unit might be?
 

shurur

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I thought it might be what the four switches mount into on the driver's side door...

I'm looking at a door switch assembly on ebay.
There are two ground wires on that as I suspected..
 
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Hurrycanestang

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That ground into the door themselves? I looked through and I don't see any loose connections or wires. I would assume they are black? I do believe you are correct about this ground, after I went downstairs about an hour ago since last night, my battery was seriously drawn down and its brand new from last month...
 
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Hurrycanestang

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These probably won't help and will be more confusing than anything, but just so you can see what I see...

20140409_163155_zps3wri9ida.jpg


20140409_163202_zpszr1i2vxi.jpg


20140409_163252_zpsuqu77jfl.jpg
 

shurur

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I think the small black ground might connect to the door with a lug,..(hinge ground??)
while the other bigger black ground wire goes to the rubber boot and to real chassis ground inside the car.
But probably/maybe they both pass through the boot.
can't remember..it's been a awhile since I ran the autoloc switches...

I'm suspecting that the big ground isn't connected to ground, or your relay has a short (after what you've just said).
 

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