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The Terminator
Terminator Talk
Widening Wheels
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<blockquote data-quote="DCguy" data-source="post: 16915720" data-attributes="member: 196849"><p>When wheels are widened they will typically cut the barrel toward the inner edge since the bore and spokes of the wheel are more toward the outer edge. Then they'll add whatever amount of material and weld the inner edge back on to that, effectively widening the wheel. </p><p></p><p>Forget offsets - backspacing is what's important here when you're concerned about clearance. First thing is find out what your wheel backspacing is. </p><p></p><p>So if you have an 18x10 with 5.5in of backspacing (for example), this means that from the wheel bore's edge (the surface of the wheel that contacts your brake rotor) to the wheel lip of the inner edge of the wheel is 5.5 inches. Find some photos of this its easier to grasp. </p><p></p><p>Widening a wheel means adding backspacing. So if you added 1in to your 18x10 it will become an 18x11 with 6.5 inches of backspacing....which means you will have more tire going into your wheel wells. If you run quad shocks you may have some contact issues there. In such a case, a wheel spacer (or removing the quad shock) is required. </p><p></p><p>From there you can figure out your wheel offset, but in general terms adding backspacing will effectively increase your positve offset. So if we add 1in in wheel width thats basically 25mm of offset we've just added. If you're already starting out with a +20mm offset, this means you'll have a +45mm offset which isn't great. You'll have wider wheels but the outside edge of the wheel is going to be unchanged relative to where it sits under the fender. So either way, when widening wheels, typically spacers are always needed, unless you have a very rare wheel like an 18x10 with a 0 offset. </p><p></p><p>In this case I would go with a 1/2 spacer at minimum, maybe even 5/8 to help push the wheel outward for a better fitment and, potentially, clearance. What that means is that you'll need to install 3in wheel studs if you haven't yet....and open ended lugnuts. </p><p></p><p>It might just be easier to buy a set of 18x10.5 for the rears if you're just trying to stick to factory style 5 spokes.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DCguy, post: 16915720, member: 196849"] When wheels are widened they will typically cut the barrel toward the inner edge since the bore and spokes of the wheel are more toward the outer edge. Then they'll add whatever amount of material and weld the inner edge back on to that, effectively widening the wheel. Forget offsets - backspacing is what's important here when you're concerned about clearance. First thing is find out what your wheel backspacing is. So if you have an 18x10 with 5.5in of backspacing (for example), this means that from the wheel bore's edge (the surface of the wheel that contacts your brake rotor) to the wheel lip of the inner edge of the wheel is 5.5 inches. Find some photos of this its easier to grasp. Widening a wheel means adding backspacing. So if you added 1in to your 18x10 it will become an 18x11 with 6.5 inches of backspacing....which means you will have more tire going into your wheel wells. If you run quad shocks you may have some contact issues there. In such a case, a wheel spacer (or removing the quad shock) is required. From there you can figure out your wheel offset, but in general terms adding backspacing will effectively increase your positve offset. So if we add 1in in wheel width thats basically 25mm of offset we've just added. If you're already starting out with a +20mm offset, this means you'll have a +45mm offset which isn't great. You'll have wider wheels but the outside edge of the wheel is going to be unchanged relative to where it sits under the fender. So either way, when widening wheels, typically spacers are always needed, unless you have a very rare wheel like an 18x10 with a 0 offset. In this case I would go with a 1/2 spacer at minimum, maybe even 5/8 to help push the wheel outward for a better fitment and, potentially, clearance. What that means is that you'll need to install 3in wheel studs if you haven't yet....and open ended lugnuts. It might just be easier to buy a set of 18x10.5 for the rears if you're just trying to stick to factory style 5 spokes. [/QUOTE]
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