Why does the clutch give a heavy feeling with higher RPMS?
- Thread starter oldbones
- Start date
Because the stock clutch and pressure plate aren't very good at handling high RPMs.
I went through a similar experience, which was followed by hard shifts to 5th, then all the gears at the track.Turned out the clutch disc had failed.
If you're going to do consistent high RPM runs at the track, consider having to replace the clutch/flywheel in the future a possibility.
I went through a similar experience, which was followed by hard shifts to 5th, then all the gears at the track.Turned out the clutch disc had failed.
If you're going to do consistent high RPM runs at the track, consider having to replace the clutch/flywheel in the future a possibility.
Sad part is, stock clutch sucks. For high rpm easy shifting, twin disc all the way. But then the weak point is the gears in the trans. I personally exploded 4th gear, took out all the teeth. Buddy did the same to 3rd gear, another buddy did the same thing to 3rd gear twice.
Seen few other people post pics same issue doing it to 3rd or 4th with a McLeod RST or RXT. These transmissions are awful. They are weak. Made in china crap.
If I were to do it again, I would just run a decent single disc that holds good power
And hope it fully disengages at 7500+ rpm. Single disc shouldn't shatter gears, then again neither should a twin disc.
Seen few other people post pics same issue doing it to 3rd or 4th with a McLeod RST or RXT. These transmissions are awful. They are weak. Made in china crap.
If I were to do it again, I would just run a decent single disc that holds good power
And hope it fully disengages at 7500+ rpm. Single disc shouldn't shatter gears, then again neither should a twin disc.
Remove the assist spring, that might help some, I removed mine from the clutch pedal which helped from locking me out of gears (along with a shifter bracket.) I also have a braided clutch line and better fluid ready to go, im hoping it will last until I can replace the clutch. After that i'll probably do a single disk. as its a DD I wont want the chatter associated with the twin, plus the cost factor. I feel like a good single disk would work wonders on an N/A car since I'll probably never see above 500whp.
anyone try the exedy single? supposed to handle good power and still drive well..
i'm about to, I ordered an Exedy 500 yesterday. I can't afford to frag this transmission. I've owned 3 cobras and two mustangs, and I'm very disappointed with how Ford has built this mt82. It's been a poor performer since brand new.
the trans isn't really that bad, at least for me it isn't. I enjoy the ratios that are in it, what I can't stand is the semi remote mount shifter and the weak clutch at high rpms. both are fixable but they shouldn't be issues to begin with, the shifter has alignment issues when the engine is under a load and the clutch can't handle the designed rpm range of the factory engine? should've used a stiffer clutch and made the assist spring worth while having.
My transmission has been very notch since new. I agree about the remote shifter being a POS, lost a couple of races because of it. I've already done a clutch line and the a whiteline trans mount brace.
Ford didn't build the trans, Getrag did. Unfortunately this is an all-to-common problem with China-sourced parts; Ford should go back to Tremec for a manual box but price trumps all in the OEM world and China can still build them cheaper.
I will give the MT82 praise for smooth shift effort during normal driving conditions (after I put Amsoil in); and they got the ratios dialed in well for the car. Unfortunately my MT82 in my early-build '11 car became a victim of defective bearings and started whining like some others so I decided to cut my loses.
Tremec Magnum XL + '13 Shelby GT500 twin disc clutch is a real hot setup in these cars. No more aftermarket clutches for me, too many compromises to driveability.
I will give the MT82 praise for smooth shift effort during normal driving conditions (after I put Amsoil in); and they got the ratios dialed in well for the car. Unfortunately my MT82 in my early-build '11 car became a victim of defective bearings and started whining like some others so I decided to cut my loses.
Tremec Magnum XL + '13 Shelby GT500 twin disc clutch is a real hot setup in these cars. No more aftermarket clutches for me, too many compromises to driveability.
Does the GT500 clutch work with the stock flywheel? The bearings are toast in my MT82 at 5,600 km. I'm giving some serious thought on the Tremac.
You need to order all the '13 (or '14 M.Y.) GT500 parts - flywheel, fasteners, clutch assembly, slave. If you use the GT500 slave you will need to shim it for proper depth. The factory GT slave allows much more travel and may not need shimming but I wanted to convert the entire system over to avoid any compatibility issues. I also installed the GT500 master cylinder - it has a larger, aluminum bore instead of the plastic version on the base GT. Finally, I installed a SS braided clutch line in place of the factory plastic line.
You can get all the clutch parts from Ford (minus the line, which I bought from JPC) and still be well under the cost of a McLeod RXT clutch...driveability is worlds better - no noise, very minimal chatter & smooth engagement.
This conversion is not without its challenges. Use the Dakota Digital speedo conversion box NOT the Abbott, or you may have cruise control issues. My Quicktime bellhousing was not machined correctly - it was off-center by 21 thou causing me all kinds of shift issues. I had to pull the trans 3 times before I figured out the issue and had to fix QuickTime's machining issues on my own. Once you get everything dialed in it's a great set up.
Much obliged for the information. I think you have me convinced now.
Thanks will do.
Just got my exedy 500 in and love it!! Clean effortless shifting at 7600 rpms no more 2nd gear grind. The only draw back is that my kit was missing the dowels, so I had to machine some.
the best way to sum up my trans when racing, third gear does not exist while under a load. doesn't matter how I shift whether forcing the shifter or simply pushing it forward letting it align itself if I go for third under a load its a wall and not a gate. hoping to try a BF shifter bracket to correct this and a MGW shifter.
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