just been debating of doing an automatic swap in my car possibly. but I really want to know why others did it and what setup did you go with. pics? advise? info?
please
thanks
brian
please
thanks
brian
why did you go automatic in your turbo terminator?
- Thread starter brian97cobra
- Start date
I'm in the midst of a th400 built right now. Having a local guy build it for me. I made the switch because there is severe lag between gear shifts, at least on my car. And the car is just generally laggy until the boost comes on. I'm hoping for significant improvement with the th400 and PTC converter. Plus, I'm planning to run 30+ lbs this year and the t56 just won't hold up to that reliably. I have a very detailed parts list with prices, but it's at work so I will have to post it on Monday.
My car has Twin 62's and now has a built th400 in it. The feel of the automatic is unreal. I have always wondered why people put autos in a car...until i drove this one. all you have to do is hold on and pull a lever back
What rear gears do you have and what rpms are you running at 70mph? Also do you have a link to your build?
I put a 4r70w in mine simply because I couldn't find a clutch that worked well on the street and at the track.
The auto cured that issue. There are times when I still wish it was a manual, but then I think of all the dumb throw out bearing squeeks, clutch chatter, pedals sticking to the floor, etc. and am quickly reminded why I made the swap.
The auto cured that issue. There are times when I still wish it was a manual, but then I think of all the dumb throw out bearing squeeks, clutch chatter, pedals sticking to the floor, etc. and am quickly reminded why I made the swap.
Really want to go auto in my turbo mach.. but it gets pretty pricey.
I picked up juiced46 old th400 setup with a Dynamic racing transmissions th400, dynotech chromoly DS, UCC billet converter and b&m ratchet. It actually gets installed next monday and I cant wait.
The car just would never perform the way it should with the t56. The car will be a completely different animal with the auto and the endless pull it will have. Lag will be gone and there wont be a worry about breaking trans parts or the clutch slipping.
The car just would never perform the way it should with the t56. The car will be a completely different animal with the auto and the endless pull it will have. Lag will be gone and there wont be a worry about breaking trans parts or the clutch slipping.
What he said my car is very laggy on the street with the t-56 and an auto is going to solve that issue. I have a built 4l80e waiting to go in the car here in a few weeks.
Also did u put some sort of cap on your alt pully? Or what's going on there?
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sub,,, I have a mach with a 6speed and I been thinking of a auto so I don't kill my 6speed and be out all that with the added money from a new trans so I been wanting a c4 or a built auto out of a gt or so, I know ill miss the 6speed but I wont have to drop a grand in a new clutch and all that mess this winter(I need a new clutch ) so been thinking hard on this I think what I could get out of the 6speed I could throw a grand on that and have a nice auto
Here is my parts list. Keep in mind, I am having one built by a local guy. I prefer that way in case I have problems, I have someone to go to. If you can do the same, I recommend it.
I found a th400 core for $50, which is the about the price for a decent core. I just scored an awesome deal on a used PTC 9.5" converter also so that saved me some coin. It's an expensive build no doubt, but I sold my whining SOB t-56 setup for $1700 so that helped defray the cost. Can't wait to get this thing in the car and turn it up.
I found a th400 core for $50, which is the about the price for a decent core. I just scored an awesome deal on a used PTC 9.5" converter also so that saved me some coin. It's an expensive build no doubt, but I sold my whining SOB t-56 setup for $1700 so that helped defray the cost. Can't wait to get this thing in the car and turn it up.
Code:
Part Part Number Price
JW Ultra Bell 92462-46th $388
JW Flexplate N93002-468 $194
JW Crankshaft Adapter 80002-3 $22.00
B&M Pro Ratchet Shifter 80842 $189
Auto Meter Trans Temp Gauge 5757 $52
Used PTC 9.5" Converter N/A $350
Lokar Dipstick XTD-3350400FM $84
AJE Crossmember MU-7070 $146
Jakes Drum/Sprag N/A $250
Jakes TH400 Output Shaft N/A $50
Jakes Reverse Manual Valve Body N/A $200
Rossler Snap Ring Stabilizer N/A $39
B&M Deep Aluminum Pan 20280 $115
B&M Hi-Tek Tranny Cooler 70298 $195
ATI Tranny Line fittings 085-925137 $26
ARP Flex Plate Bolt Kit 254-2901 $36
ARP Converter Bolts 230-7303 $12
Billet Clutch Hub with Bearings #672 $160
Misc braided hose N/A $50
Custom Driveshaft N/A $500
Billet Input Shaft CK Perf #4CC/BIA $230
Maverick Regulator Spring P/N 1005 $10
Maverick Servo Release Spring P/N 1006 $11
Misc Parts Clutches/frictions N/A $136
Replacement Planet N/A $35
Build Labor $500
TOTAL $3,980
I went auto to cure the lag in between shifts and to cure traction issues I found with the stick.
I always like to show the dyno sheets between my 5spd and my auto swap, you can see that the power curve on the auto peaks much smoother than the peak on the stick. I hooked better, car seems much faster, and I get to listen to idiots tell me how all automatic cars are slow :rolling:.
with mach 1 T-3650
With 4R70W
I always like to show the dyno sheets between my 5spd and my auto swap, you can see that the power curve on the auto peaks much smoother than the peak on the stick. I hooked better, car seems much faster, and I get to listen to idiots tell me how all automatic cars are slow :rolling:.
with mach 1 T-3650
With 4R70W
I would bet money that all of them switched because the auto makes for a much quicker car.
that's a "ratcheting" pulley
that's a "ratcheting" pulley
I really did not have lag issues with the stick. The issue that would have occured was the track. I did not want to have to launch the car @6000+ RPMs off the 2 step to get the car to launch. If you do, then some serious mods need to be done to the T56. Not only that buy you have to make a choice.
Clutch to handle the track abuse but will not be street friendly.
Clutch to be good on the street but will not handle track abuse as good and probably will have to be replaced quite often.
For me. I wanted to build a badass street car but can still run the # at the track. Auto gives you that. Its really not that expensive. Price out a clutch, input shaft, TOB sleeve, and T56 upgrades. Then price out the auto upgrade. You are at about the same cost. I think all said and done I was around $5000 into my auto swap. A clutch/FW swap alone will cost you a $1000-2000 just for something decent. Then throw in the internal upgrades, quadrent, adjuster, etc etc etc it gets pricey.
Clutch to handle the track abuse but will not be street friendly.
Clutch to be good on the street but will not handle track abuse as good and probably will have to be replaced quite often.
For me. I wanted to build a badass street car but can still run the # at the track. Auto gives you that. Its really not that expensive. Price out a clutch, input shaft, TOB sleeve, and T56 upgrades. Then price out the auto upgrade. You are at about the same cost. I think all said and done I was around $5000 into my auto swap. A clutch/FW swap alone will cost you a $1000-2000 just for something decent. Then throw in the internal upgrades, quadrent, adjuster, etc etc etc it gets pricey.
Everything stated so far pretty much sums it up.
My car was laggy.
I broke 2 T56 transmissions.
I broke 2 driveshafts.
I broke 1 rear axle and bent the rearend.
I put the 4R70W in mine and have not broken anything since!
The PULL of the car with the auto is incredible.
It feels like I have 200+ more horsepower at the same boost level!
Highly recommend if you are making big power, want a consistent track car, or are just tired of breaking parts!
Good luck!
Ryan
My car was laggy.
I broke 2 T56 transmissions.
I broke 2 driveshafts.
I broke 1 rear axle and bent the rearend.
I put the 4R70W in mine and have not broken anything since!
The PULL of the car with the auto is incredible.
It feels like I have 200+ more horsepower at the same boost level!
Highly recommend if you are making big power, want a consistent track car, or are just tired of breaking parts!
Good luck!
Ryan
lots of good info guys. thanks and keep them coming
I couldn't keep a T56 alive to save my life. Broke three of them. Car was making 4 digits and I don't drive it gently.
Th400 and it's been trouble free for the last 5 years, has been in the 8s and I drive it to work when it's nice out. Absolutely positively ZERO regrets.
Th400 and it's been trouble free for the last 5 years, has been in the 8s and I drive it to work when it's nice out. Absolutely positively ZERO regrets.
I went auto to cure the lag in between shifts and to cure traction issues I found with the stick.
I always like to show the dyno sheets between my 5spd and my auto swap, you can see that the power curve on the auto peaks much smoother than the peak on the stick. I hooked better, car seems much faster, and I get to listen to idiots tell me how all automatic cars are slow :rolling:.
with mach 1 T-3650
With 4R70W
Your graphs looks like mine did when my manual boost controller wouldnt hold boost in the upper rpms. Cured that with an eboost street and made the power from 4k-6500 without dropping.
I bought my car with a auto already installed. I would never swap back the pull is amazing. I drove my friends 6 speed turbo cobra and there was no comparison. Glide FTW for me!
Simple...Your car becomes instantly faster when turbo(s) are paired with the right auto/convertor setup.
You mean you kinda drove my car... As I recalled you lifted every time the light for the meth came on..... But wait til my auto swap is done....it will be game on.
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