Whiteline Heavy Duty Sway Bars

[SteveG@Lethal]

Sway bar's on mustangs have been around for a long time with the aftermarket advancements that continue to build every day. It is nice because there's always someone looking to make something that much better and useful. All it takes is a little R&R.....

With that being said.... I once again have to give some credit to WHITELINE and they front and rear sway bars for the 2005-2013 model Mustangs.They are the ONLY ones that have 4-point adjustment front and rear,




They are also the ONLY people who include heavy duty adjustable endlinks in our kits.



The Front sway bar is a 33mm heavy duty blade which uses a synthetic poly bushing, Lateral Locks KLL133,and Heavy-Duty Adjustable End Links KLC169



Now, they rear is adjustable as well





The rear sway bar is a 27mm heavy duty blade which also uses the same bushings, Lateral Locks KLL127 and Heavy-Duty Adjustable End Links KLC170

Front Sway Bar: $249.49
Rear Sway Bar: $249.49

does not include shipping

Call BBR today for ordering or any other information!!!!

561-417-5555

 

[SID297]

Whiteline makes some great parts.

 

[Roadhouse]

Great looking parts. Definitely on my short list.

 

[MoonRider]

I have installed a few of whitelines parts on some of my friends cars fitment has always been good and there parts really tighten up the suspension.

 

[VETTEHUNTER]

Hmm..I was about to order up some BMR's...Might have to seriously consider these.

 

[Squamishcoyote]

Do you still need relo brackets to run 15x10's with that rear swaybar?

 

[beefcake]

Do you still need relo brackets to run 15x10's with that rear swaybar?

its not the sway bar that's so much in the way, it's the tab on the bottom where it attaches

even if you ran no swaybar, you'd have to cut mount in the bottom.

 

[SteveG@Lethal]

Hmm..I was about to order up some BMR's...Might have to seriously consider these.

It's deff a nice piece with a lot of engineering behind it.

Do you still need relo brackets to run 15x10's with that rear swaybar?

yes sir.

its not the sway bar that's so much in the way, it's the tab on the bottom where it attaches

even if you ran no swaybar, you'd have to cut mount in the bottom.

yatzee

 

[beefcake]

It's deff a nice piece with a lot of engineering behind it.

I've got a full whiteline setup for the boss going on as soon as I get back from Clearwater.

Front and rear sways, upper and lower c/a's, reloca brackets, watts link

i'm real curious to see how it sets the car up over the oem boss setup

 

[KONA BLUES]

Does the rear sway bar fit the convertible? The chassis braces on this model limit our choices

 

[SteveG@Lethal]

Does the rear sway bar fit the convertible? The chassis braces on this model limit our choices

sadly, modification will be needed for them to work on verts BUT it is only swapping out to new dampeners and bump stops

 

[11dsgGT]

I dont know much about suspension....How does the geometry of the suspension change with those 4 settings? More adjust ability for a stiffer roll?

If you dont race on an open course, in what scenarios would you use the different settings?

 

[SteveG@Lethal]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ISNWRMB6c4

Answers are in this video

 

[seank]

I dont know much about suspension....How does the geometry of the suspension change with those 4 settings? More adjust ability for a stiffer roll?

If you dont race on an open course, in what scenarios would you use the different settings?

To adjust the balance between over/understeer when changing any suspension components or wheel and tire combos. All of which will affect the handling characteristics of the car. More settings equals more options to fine tune the car to what makes the operator feel most comfortable and thereby making them faster.

I just wish Whiteline would go away from the clamp on collars and just have a welded lip on there bars for the bushings. Had a bad experience with those on my STI.

 

[Red_Devil]

I just wish Whiteline would go away from the clamp on collars and just have a welded lip on there bars for the bushings. Had a bad experience with those on my STI.

Cant be done. With solid spring steel you are unable to weld on it, if you do it actually makes it brittle and can cause it to literally shatter.

 

[AnthonyNoz]

The end links are a plus! I dont think stocks can handle sway bar adjustment too much. I tried it with my bmr sway bar and i got tons of noise. +1 whiteline

 

[twistedneck]

It's deff a nice piece with a lot of engineering behind it.

I do like that setup.. whats nice about it is they 'fixed' the original S197 rear stabar design.

What I mean is the rear stabar (swaybars as its called in aftermarket) reversed the normal proven attachment method because of packaging and crash testing. ever notice the hook on the end of your rear S197 stabar? that has an important function.

But this part Whiteline moves the high load wider bushings back to the center of the bar where they belong, supporting the high load! and the smaller less loaded links are on the ends, like 99% of all other OEM parts. So you may get more consistent travel too especially since they are ball stud links. and the 27mm size, combined with what looks like shorter arms will provide more rate, less understeer, and better on center feel - something the oem guys would love to do.

I heard its a bit heavy though. but feel free to weight the assembly with all links and brackets and hardware and i'll compare that with the OEM weights. that's a nice price for a small run of parts so i'm assuming they are cold bent, then anodized. again, a good price for that. (10x OEM, but less than a pure prototype).

 

[twistedneck]

Cant be done. With solid spring steel you are unable to weld on it, if you do it actually makes it brittle and can cause it to literally shatter.

that's right, soon as you weld there goes the temper not to mention what you said about the high carbon spring steel. McMaster bolt on annual shaft flanges (collars) are good enough for military and every race car I've seen, what was wrong with your set? I've seen these hold 10,000 lbs. was it a bad fastener? corrosion issue?

 

[twistedneck]

I dont know much about suspension....How does the geometry of the suspension change with those 4 settings? More adjust ability for a stiffer roll?

If you dont race on an open course, in what scenarios would you use the different settings?

shorter arms (farthest attachment away from the end) = higher roll rate. you can also change them independently and adjust the roll couple the difference between front and rear roll rate to control all the cool nascar stuff like entry oversteer and exit understeer. people are using larger and larger bars for oem cars now, and softer suspension springs. they want to control roll yet have a super soft cushy ride.

Nascar uses huge carbon fiber tubes now and about 80% of the suspension roll is controlled by that not coil springs anymore. these things are the size of a drive shaft!

rule of thumb, shorten the arms in front you reduce oversteer, shorten the arms in back you increase oversteer. shorten both you reduce total roll and roll weight transfer (usually a good thing to a point, because tires actually lose friction if over weighted from too much weight transfer). soften them all up i.e. put all to the end bolt hole setting and you increase total roll due to the roll rate decrease. stabars are pure tuning parts. try all the settings, you will be happily surprised at the changes you can feel even w/o going to a full tire side slip. when I changed from a factory 24mm gt rear bar to the 25mm boss rear, it felt like the rear suspension was jacking up mid corner, in reality it was just a little bit stiffer in the rear roll - that was only 1mm bar diameter. each hole placement is equivalent to about 0.5mm in bar diameter change. but the more you run it on the short arm setting, the higher the stress and loads, the more likely it is to break stuff.

 

[seank]

Cant be done. With solid spring steel you are unable to weld on it, if you do it actually makes it brittle and can cause it to literally shatter.

that's right, soon as you weld there goes the temper not to mention what you said about the high carbon spring steel. McMaster bolt on annual shaft flanges (collars) are good enough for military and every race car I've seen, what was wrong with your set? I've seen these hold 10,000 lbs. was it a bad fastener? corrosion issue?

I'm not a professional welder or metallurgist but I have been through a material science class and understand what happens to various steels as you heat them. But I have talked with a few welders that say they have successfully welded spring steel. Their process was described as a pre-heat treatment, then weld, then a re-heat treatment of the the finished piece to retemper. Yes I know the weld will still be more brittle than the base material but they didn't seem to have issues with this using it on large industrial applications.

Also If you can't weld the collars onto spring steel how does Eibach, RaceComp Engineering, Cusco, Steeda, and others do it to their bars? Not being an ass just asking because I'm interested in why some companies do it with fixed collars and others like Whiteline and Strano use the removable ones.

My bad experiences were most likely attributed to living in the northeast and using my cars year round and also buying a used set. Probably not a fair trial but it was enough of a pain in the ass to make me pick up another set. That being said anything else suspension wise I've had nothing but awesome experiences with when using Whiteline products.