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Whipple supercharger noise Help?
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<blockquote data-quote="Joe 69" data-source="post: 15739587" data-attributes="member: 150328"><p>Hi ..SW</p><p></p><p>Thanks for chiming in. Whipple sent me a new belt tensioner and everything is working fine now. The first replacement belt tensioner was defective. No more noise. I’m still not sure why they updated the belt routing.</p><p></p><p>I read through Fishpicks belt tensioner threads and I’m trying to draw some conclusions…</p><p></p><p>My subjective thoughts… I am no expert...but, this might shed some light..</p><p></p><p>The original RPM belt (GATES K06891RPM) Whipple supplied with the old tensioner was shorter then the replacement non-RPM belt. The RPM belt is 89-5/8’’ long. This belt had a different routing then the new belt. I think this is where Whipple went wrong….The instructions show the belt tensioner clocked at 80% tension (about 10-O’clock). From what I’m reading this is too tight for this type of belt because, the RPM belt is less pliable (stiffer) then the regular belt. The clocking should have been at 40% tension with the RPM belt (about 8-O’clock). Since the tension was to stiff the belt snapped. Just my thought, Whipple should have supplied a longer RPM belt with the shorter belt routing to clock the tensioner in the correct position 40% to avoid breakage. (But they decided to reinvent the wheel). The RPM belt K060891RPM is hard to find and also very expensive if you find one around $150.</p><p></p><p>Forward,..Whipple now up dated the belt tensioner, support stands for the idler pulley plate and belt. The new belt has a different routing and is a non RPM-belt (more pliable) This new belt is a Gates K061066 and is now 107 1/8’’ long, much longer then the RPM belt and cheaper about $23.00. With this belt, the tensioner is now set at 80% clocked at (about 10-O’clock). This is the correct tension for this type of belt.</p><p></p><p>New Problem…. since the new belt has a different routing it is hard to get the proper tension adjustment. When you move the adjustment idler pully to get the correct tension the belt comes in contact with the belt run from the alternator to the crank. Another words, lowering the belt adjustment idler pulley to get the proper tension causes the belt to rub against itself. Hope this makes sense. I have the adjustment idler pulley set with the belt about a ¼ away from hitting the belt run from the alternator to the crank. This still seems to loose for my likening.</p><p></p><p>I just order a new Gates NON-RPM belt K061058; according to Gates this belt is 7/8 shorter then the K061066 belt. This might help take up the slack in the adjustment.</p><p></p><p>It seems like people are using an RPM belt in the longer run but, I’m no sure which part number they are using.</p><p></p><p>Hope all that made sense. Try just trying to give people some insight if they are planning on going the 2.9 Whipple route.</p><p></p><p>Joe</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Joe 69, post: 15739587, member: 150328"] Hi ..SW Thanks for chiming in. Whipple sent me a new belt tensioner and everything is working fine now. The first replacement belt tensioner was defective. No more noise. I’m still not sure why they updated the belt routing. I read through Fishpicks belt tensioner threads and I’m trying to draw some conclusions… My subjective thoughts… I am no expert...but, this might shed some light.. The original RPM belt (GATES K06891RPM) Whipple supplied with the old tensioner was shorter then the replacement non-RPM belt. The RPM belt is 89-5/8’’ long. This belt had a different routing then the new belt. I think this is where Whipple went wrong….The instructions show the belt tensioner clocked at 80% tension (about 10-O’clock). From what I’m reading this is too tight for this type of belt because, the RPM belt is less pliable (stiffer) then the regular belt. The clocking should have been at 40% tension with the RPM belt (about 8-O’clock). Since the tension was to stiff the belt snapped. Just my thought, Whipple should have supplied a longer RPM belt with the shorter belt routing to clock the tensioner in the correct position 40% to avoid breakage. (But they decided to reinvent the wheel). The RPM belt K060891RPM is hard to find and also very expensive if you find one around $150. Forward,..Whipple now up dated the belt tensioner, support stands for the idler pulley plate and belt. The new belt has a different routing and is a non RPM-belt (more pliable) This new belt is a Gates K061066 and is now 107 1/8’’ long, much longer then the RPM belt and cheaper about $23.00. With this belt, the tensioner is now set at 80% clocked at (about 10-O’clock). This is the correct tension for this type of belt. New Problem…. since the new belt has a different routing it is hard to get the proper tension adjustment. When you move the adjustment idler pully to get the correct tension the belt comes in contact with the belt run from the alternator to the crank. Another words, lowering the belt adjustment idler pulley to get the proper tension causes the belt to rub against itself. Hope this makes sense. I have the adjustment idler pulley set with the belt about a ¼ away from hitting the belt run from the alternator to the crank. This still seems to loose for my likening. I just order a new Gates NON-RPM belt K061058; according to Gates this belt is 7/8 shorter then the K061066 belt. This might help take up the slack in the adjustment. It seems like people are using an RPM belt in the longer run but, I’m no sure which part number they are using. Hope all that made sense. Try just trying to give people some insight if they are planning on going the 2.9 Whipple route. Joe [/QUOTE]
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