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SVT Shelby GT500
Which rear suspension parts for 11 GT500
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<blockquote data-quote="Redneckbmxer24" data-source="post: 15323678" data-attributes="member: 34905"><p>Will the watts link make a significant difference helping the car stay straight?</p><p></p><p>Since I've opened the can of worms now when I was only going to do what was required for lowering and driveshaft, I'm asking myself where do I stop or do I just do a full kit and do front too. So what about front suspension? On one of my terminators I did a UPR tubular k member, A arms, and coilovers. IMO not the quality of BMR but pretty solid IMO and it made a huge difference stiffening up the car, like 4x over the difference that subframe connectors make. This car seems a lot more rigid from the factory than the terminators but now I'm wondering what difference your K member and A arms will make and how would they compliment the rear suspension I plan to add as well? I'm doing Kooks too so I will already be in there and it will make the header install easier as well.</p><p></p><p>I know I'm now talking about significantly more money. Your CA's, mounts, pan hard bar, DS, and BC coilovers were going to run me about $2500 before selling my stock stuff and switching to the watts link, and doing K member, A arms, and sway bars will bump me up to about $4500-$5000 depending on which sway bars I go with but that will be full suspension. I don't mind spending the cash if it's worth it but I'm wondering at what point do you stop seeing as much of a gain for the $$ spent or if you even do. If these cars respond to a K member the way the termis do then I would say the added $1100 for K member and control arms are well worth it but if the difference isn't as noticeable then maybe not.</p><p></p><p>The most important question however is sticker placement. I'm assuming the parts all come with stickers to get their full performance. Where on the car should the stickers be placed for optimal handling performance for hard street driving and occasional track use? Also how many stickers should be used?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Redneckbmxer24, post: 15323678, member: 34905"] Will the watts link make a significant difference helping the car stay straight? Since I've opened the can of worms now when I was only going to do what was required for lowering and driveshaft, I'm asking myself where do I stop or do I just do a full kit and do front too. So what about front suspension? On one of my terminators I did a UPR tubular k member, A arms, and coilovers. IMO not the quality of BMR but pretty solid IMO and it made a huge difference stiffening up the car, like 4x over the difference that subframe connectors make. This car seems a lot more rigid from the factory than the terminators but now I'm wondering what difference your K member and A arms will make and how would they compliment the rear suspension I plan to add as well? I'm doing Kooks too so I will already be in there and it will make the header install easier as well. I know I'm now talking about significantly more money. Your CA's, mounts, pan hard bar, DS, and BC coilovers were going to run me about $2500 before selling my stock stuff and switching to the watts link, and doing K member, A arms, and sway bars will bump me up to about $4500-$5000 depending on which sway bars I go with but that will be full suspension. I don't mind spending the cash if it's worth it but I'm wondering at what point do you stop seeing as much of a gain for the $$ spent or if you even do. If these cars respond to a K member the way the termis do then I would say the added $1100 for K member and control arms are well worth it but if the difference isn't as noticeable then maybe not. The most important question however is sticker placement. I'm assuming the parts all come with stickers to get their full performance. Where on the car should the stickers be placed for optimal handling performance for hard street driving and occasional track use? Also how many stickers should be used? [/QUOTE]
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SVT Shelby GT500
Which rear suspension parts for 11 GT500
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