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SVT Shelby GT500
Which rear suspension parts for 11 GT500
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<blockquote data-quote="BMR Tech 2" data-source="post: 15323231" data-attributes="member: 174721"><p>At a minimum I recommend putting a set of lower control arms and lower control arm relocation brackets on the car. The LCAs will help eliminate or reduce wheel hop and the relocation brackets will correct the LCA angles once you lower the car. An adjustable UCA may not be required with the DSS driveshaft, but they do spec that the distance from the rear of the DS to the rear CV should be 3.25"-3.75". This distance can be adjusted with an adjustable UCA. You mentioned that you want to set your pinion angle as well, so you'll need the adj. UCA or adj. LCAs to do that. The UCA bracket isn't needed, but it is strongly recommended. The factory UCA to mount bolt hole is larger than it needs to be, which will allow aftermarket arms to slide around, making some pretty annoying clunking sounds. </p><p></p><p>You will also want to grab an adjustable panhard bar or a Watts link to keep the rear end centered under the vehicle after lowering. A Watts link is a far superior set up to the panhard, as it pretty much keeps the axle perfectly centered under the car during the whole range of suspension travel. A panhard bar allows the axle to move on an arc, and can make the rear feel unsettled over uneven surfaces. A Watts is probably overkill for most folks, but it's well worth the money in my opinion. I run one on my personal car that is mostly a street car, and I absolutely love it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BMR Tech 2, post: 15323231, member: 174721"] At a minimum I recommend putting a set of lower control arms and lower control arm relocation brackets on the car. The LCAs will help eliminate or reduce wheel hop and the relocation brackets will correct the LCA angles once you lower the car. An adjustable UCA may not be required with the DSS driveshaft, but they do spec that the distance from the rear of the DS to the rear CV should be 3.25"-3.75". This distance can be adjusted with an adjustable UCA. You mentioned that you want to set your pinion angle as well, so you'll need the adj. UCA or adj. LCAs to do that. The UCA bracket isn't needed, but it is strongly recommended. The factory UCA to mount bolt hole is larger than it needs to be, which will allow aftermarket arms to slide around, making some pretty annoying clunking sounds. You will also want to grab an adjustable panhard bar or a Watts link to keep the rear end centered under the vehicle after lowering. A Watts link is a far superior set up to the panhard, as it pretty much keeps the axle perfectly centered under the car during the whole range of suspension travel. A panhard bar allows the axle to move on an arc, and can make the rear feel unsettled over uneven surfaces. A Watts is probably overkill for most folks, but it's well worth the money in my opinion. I run one on my personal car that is mostly a street car, and I absolutely love it. [/QUOTE]
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Which rear suspension parts for 11 GT500
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