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<blockquote data-quote="FastazzL" data-source="post: 6138875" data-attributes="member: 17811"><p>94-95 had a roller ready block and you can do the conversion for around $200 and the 95's had the best tranny. Below is some more info for ya:</p><p></p><p></p><p>Gen1 Production Numbers </p><p>Year Black Red White Total</p><p>1993 2,691 2,585 N/A 5,276</p><p>1994 1,382 1,165 1,460 4,007</p><p>1995 824 695 761 2,280</p><p>93-95 4,897 4,445 2,221 11,563</p><p>Because there were a few people interested in a comparison, here are the production numbers for Gen2 Lightnings. Thanks to DHFerguson</p><p>Gen2 Production Numbers </p><p>Year Black Red White Silver Blue Grey Total</p><p>1999 1,601 1,533 866 N/A N/A N/A 4,000</p><p>2000 1,596 1,405 928 1,037 N/A N/A 4,966</p><p>2001 1,908 1,722 1,170 1,581 N/A N/A 6,381</p><p>2002 1,198 1,086 294* 1,018 1,130 N/A 4,726</p><p>2003 1,036 735 606 N/A 723 1,170 4,270</p><p>99-03 7,339 6,481 3,864 3,636 1,853 1,170 24,343</p><p>* - For 2002, SVT did not offer White until very late in the year. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Specifications for 1993-1995 Lightning vehicles (Generation 1)</p><p>Engine Specs</p><p>Type 90 degree V-8, OHV, 16 valves</p><p>Bore x Stroke (in.) 4.00 x 3.50</p><p>Displacement 5.8L (351 cu. in.) (5752 cc)</p><p>Compression Ratio 8.8:1</p><p>Horsepower (SAE Net) 240 HP @ 4200 RPM</p><p>Torque 340 lbs./ft. @ 3200 RPM</p><p>Fuel System Multi-Port Electric Fuel Injection</p><p>Throttle Body Single TB - 65 mm</p><p>Camshaft High Torque</p><p>Intake Valves 1 per cylinder, 1.84 in. Diameter</p><p>Exhaust Valves 1 per cylinder, 1.54 in. Diameter</p><p>Pistons Hypereutectic</p><p>Cylinder Block Cast Iron</p><p>Cylinder Heads GT-40 Design, Cast Iron</p><p>Intake Manifolds Upper - Tuned Length Tubular Aluminum</p><p> Lower - Cast Aluminum</p><p>Exhaust Manifolds Tubular stainless steel, Header type</p><p>Exhaust System Dual stainless steel; including 4 Catalytic Convertors, 2 Mufflers, 2 Tailpipes</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Drivetrain Specs</p><p>Configuration Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive</p><p>Transmission Heavy Duty E40D, Electronic 4-Speed</p><p> Automatic Overdrive with Brake/Shift Interlock</p><p>Gear Ratios 1st: 2.71</p><p> 2nd: 1.54</p><p> 3rd: 1.00</p><p> 4th (OD): 0.71</p><p> Reverse: 2.18</p><p>Driveshaft 4.0 Diameter, Aluminum</p><p>Rear Axle Heavy Duty 8.8 in.; Limited Slip Differential</p><p> 4.10:1 Final Gear Ratio</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Suspension Specs</p><p>Front Suspension Twin I-Beam, Radius Arms, Coil Springs,</p><p> Monroe Formula GP Shocks, 1.0 in. Diameter Stabilizer Bar</p><p>Rear Suspension Rigid Axle, Leaf Springs, Monroe Forumla GP Shocks</p><p> 1.0 in. Diameter Stabilizer Bar</p><p>Steering Type Power Assisted, Integral Recirculating Ball Steering Gear</p><p>Steering Gear Ratio 17.0:1</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Brakes/Wheels Specs</p><p>Brakes Type Power Assisted Disc/Drum, Rear Anti-Lock</p><p>Front Brakes Disc, Rotor Diameter 297.7 mm (11.72 in.)</p><p>Rear Brakes Drum, 280 x 57mm (11.03 x 2.25 in.)</p><p> </p><p>Wheels Cast Aluminum Five-Spoke 17x8 in.</p><p>Tires Firestone Firehawk GTA, BSW P275/60HR-17</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Miscellaneous Info</p><p>Exterior Colors 1993: Non-Clearcoat Black and Non-Clearcoat Bright Red</p><p>Exterior Colors 1994: Ebony Clearcoat, Crimson Clearcoat, Oxford White</p><p>Exterior Colors 1995: Bright Red Clearcoat, Crimson Clearcoat, Oxford White</p><p>Interior Color 1993: Dark Charcoal</p><p>Interior Color 1994: Opal Grey</p><p>Interior Color 1995: Dark Charcoal</p><p> </p><p>Wheelbase 116.8 in. (2967 mm)</p><p>Overall Length - With Step Bumper 201.8 in. (5125 mm)</p><p>Ground Clearance 8.2 in. (208 mm)</p><p>Front Track 64.2 in. (1631 mm)</p><p>Rear Track 63.5 in. (1613 mm)</p><p>Width 79.0 in. (2007 mm)</p><p>Height 68.9 in. (1750 mm)</p><p>Head Room 39.6 in. (1006 mm)</p><p>Leg Room 41.1 in. (1044 mm) </p><p>Cab Volume 62 cubic ft.</p><p>Fuel Capacity 34.7 Gallons</p><p>Curb Weight 4480 lbs.</p><p>Weight Distribution 55.8/44.2</p><p>Maximum Payload 745 lbs</p><p>Maximum Trailer Weight 5000 lbs.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Performance Numbers</p><p>0-60 MPH 7.2 seconds</p><p>0-100 MPH 25.7 seconds</p><p>1/4 mile 15.6 seconds @ 87.4 MPH</p><p>Top Speed 110 MPH (electronic limited)</p><p>Lateral Acceleration: 300-ft Skidpad 0.88 g</p><p> </p><p>Braking: 60 MPH - 0 143 feet</p><p>Braking: 70 MPH - 0 184 feet</p><p> </p><p>Fuel Economy - City 12 MPG</p><p>Fuel Economy - Highway 16 MPG</p><p></p><p></p><p>Standard equipment on 1993-1995 Lightnings were: </p><p>• Supplemental Restrain System: Driver-Side (Airbag) (On 1994+ vehicles only) </p><p>• XLT Trim </p><p>• Premium Bucket Seats with Power Lumbar Support </p><p>• Center Floor Console (on 1993 and some 1994 trucks) or Center folding seat (on some 1994 and all 1995 trucks) </p><p>• Functional Front Air Dam with Fog Lights </p><p>• Electric AM/FM Stereo with Cassette/Digital Clock and Four Speakers (CD Player was an option in 1994+ trucks) </p><p>• Power Side Windows and Power Door Locks </p><p>• Air Conditiong </p><p>• Speed Control/Tilt Steering Wheel </p><p>• Interval Wipers </p><p>• Light and Convenience Group B </p><p></p><p>Available options for 1993-1995 Lightnings were: </p><p>• Tubular Rear Bumper </p><p>• Electric Side Mirrors </p><p>• Trailer Towing Package </p><p>• Sliding Rear Windows </p><p>• Security Group: Remote Keyless Entry/Anti-Theft System (on 1994+ only) </p><p>• Compact Disc Player (on 1994+ only) </p><p>• Convertible Console Center Seat (on 1994, standard in 1995, N/A in 1993) </p><p>• Light and Convenience Group A </p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Exhaust</p><p>Modifying the exhaust on your Lightning is a good way to bring out a lot of the power from the engine. By doing a complete exhaust conversion, you can cut nearly half a second off your e/t.</p><p></p><p>Headers</p><p></p><p>A typical header install, though time consuming, will net positive and noticeable gains for your truck. A typical install will take anywhere from 2.5-5 hours, depending on which manufacturer you use, and typically show results of up to 15HP, and 20-25 ft/lbs of torque. Most companies will make a base stainless steel model. Ceramic coated headers can be bought, at an additional cost of $100-200, or can be coated by a local professional. The ceramic coating maintains the finish of the headers, so that they will not dull or discolor, as stainless steel headers usually do. If you buy regular steel headers, it may be a good idea to have them ceramic coated prior to installation. This will insure that you avoid rust problems with them in the future. </p><p>o JBA (part # 1628-2) - One of the best shorty headers for the Lightning engines, at a higher cost. They run from $375-$400 stainless steel (uncoated). </p><p>o Bassani (part # 58150L) - The best choice for best performance for dollar spent. The stainless steel headers run from $300-350. </p><p>o Ford Motorsports (FMS) - One of the most frustrating headers for installation. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Cat pipes</p><p></p><p>The cat pipe is the piece of tubing that collects exhaust from the headers, and transfers it to the 'catback'. Quite simply, the cat-pipe is where your catalytic convertors are mounted. Lightning have dual pipes, with a total of four catalytic convertors. When upgrading your cat-pipe, you have a choice. You can purchase a high-flow cat-pipe, that retains catalytic convertors, but allows more exhaust flow. Or, you could purchase a cat-pipe that has no catalytic convertors at all. These are made for off-road use only, and your vehicle will not pass visual emissions inspections without the convertors. Cat-pipes are not too difficult to install, but may require removing the transmission crossmember. Typical gains run from 5-15HP, depending on other engine modifications.</p><p>It is highly recommended not to run an off-road pipe with your stock cat-back exhaust. It greatly changes your exhaust tone, and has not been favored by very many people. </p><p>o Bassani Hi-Flow Cats (part # 58150L-3) - High quality item. Price ranges from $450-500. </p><p>o Bassani Off-road Cat-less pipe (part # 58150L-2) - Not street legal </p><p></p><p></p><p>Cat-back exhausts</p><p></p><p>A cat-back is the exhaust tubing that is located behind the catalytic convertor pipe, and extends back to the exhaust tips, hence the name Cat-back. The cat-back contains the muffler(s). </p><p>For Lightnings, there are three different styles of cat-backs. Forward exit exhausts have the exhaust tips in front of the right rear tire. Rear exit (or Over-the-axle) exhausts have the exhaust tips behind the right rear tire (stock location). There are also rear-facing exhausts that have the exhaust tips under the rear bumper of the truck.</p><p>For all exhaust tubing, mandrel bends are highly recommended. Traditional bends in the exhaust tubes actually crimp the tube, restricting and disrupting exhaust flow. Mandrel bends are a nice, clean bend that does neither.</p><p>A general rule is that the longer the exhaust tubing, the quieter, and more mellow, the exhaust tone will be. Many performance exhausts are located in forward-exit style, for a mean, loud tone. </p><p>o Bassani Quiet Thunder Forward-Exit (part # 58150L-4) - Dual muffler, dual pipe. Retails from $475-525. </p><p>o Bassani Quiet Thunder Over-Axle (part # 58150L-5) - Dual muffler, dual pipe. Retails from $425-475. </p><p>o Borla Rear-exit (part # 14463) </p><p>o Borla front-exit (Nastruck) (part # 14601) - Not in production anymore. </p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Air Intakes</p><p>If you look at how an engine works, it is exactly like a large, complex, air pump. So, the more air you bring into the engine, the more performance you'll get out of the engine, to a certain extent. </p><p>The air intake is composed of three parts: the plastic inlet tube, running from the front of the truck to the air filter, the air filter, and the "S" hose running from the filter to the throttle body (at the top of the engine).</p><p></p><p>Air Inlet Tube</p><p></p><p>The stock inlet tube mounts to the top of the radiator, and feeds air to the filter. Just by looking at it, it is easy to tell that it is a minor bottleneck. However, a cheap replacement exists.</p><p>o Ford F-250 460ci Inlet tube (part # F3TZ-9A675-B) - This inlet tube attaches to the filter box the same as the stock one. However, it mounts to the driver side of the radiator. If you take out the grille, it's easy to see a large, vertical, rectangular hole beside the radiator. This inlet tube attaches here to bring in extra air. The end of the tube does have a curve to it. There have been many owners that have cut this curve off, so that air flows directly into the tube. If you live in very wet areas, you may not want to do that however, as it will make it very easy for water to be introduced to the filter. </p><p></p><p>Air Filters</p><p>o K & N (part # 33-2023 (??)) - Replacement air filter that fits into the stock air box. It is reuseable, and has a lifetime guarantee. </p><p>o Fram (part # ) - Replacement for air filter. </p><p></p><p>Air Filter Conical Kits</p><p>o K & N FIPK (part # 57-2517) - This is a large cone filter that attaches to the end of your 'S' air hose. It completely replaces the stock air box, and requires drilling into the fender lip and fender liner. To use your air inlet tube, you must drill and bolt (or zip-tie) it to the fender lining. </p><p>o K & N Conical filter (part # ) - 9" conical filter, without the mounting hardware. This is a cheaper alternative, if you have the means for fabricating your own mounting hardware. </p><p></p><p>"S" Hose</p><p></p><p>The "S" hose, while having nice bends, is designed in a way that extends the length of travel between the air filter and the throttle body. It also can be improved on, using a larger diameter hose. Many people have had luck using simple clothes dryer duct. It is very inexpensive, and flexible. </p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Fans/Cooling</p><p>All that speed is for naught if you overheat your engine. The stock fan assembly does do a good job at cooling your engine, but it can be improved upon. The stock fan is attached to the water pump pulley, and produces a large amount of rotational mass on the engine. By removing the fan, you 'free up' 5-10 HP.</p><p></p><p>Electric Fans</p><p>When installing electric fans, care must be taken to your wiring methods. A relay and adjustable thermostat are highly recommended. Also take care to wire to your A/C, so that the fans turn on everytime your A/C is turned on.</p><p>• Flex-a-Lite (part # FLX-220) - This is a dual electric fan that replaces the stock fan. It covers a large portion of your radiator, and pushes about 2,700 CFM. They run from $175-200, and you can typically see results of nearly 1/10th cut off your e/t, and a gain of .5 to 1MPH on your trap speed. Installation ranges between 1.5 to 3 hours, depending on expertise. </p><p>• Flex-a-Lite (part # FLX-210) - This is the same exact fan as the above, but includes an adjustable thermostat and A/C relay. This is the preferred unit. The cost ranges from $200-225. </p><p></p><p>Radiators</p><p>The stock radiator should be capable enough for most high performance needs. There are two variations though. If your truck had the towing option, it has a larger radiator, at 4" thick. The normal radiator is only 2" thick, with a different fan shroud.</p><p></p><p>Transmission Coolers</p><p>All Lightnings are equipped with transmission coolers, mounted forward of the radiator.</p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Camshafts</p><p>A camshaft is a cylindrical object with precise lumps and valleys machined onto it. These lumps open and close the intake and exhaust valves at certain times, for certain durations of time, and to certain distances. A camshaft can make or break your engine combo, depending on how it's machined. There are a few out-of-the-box camshafts (cams) available for the Lightnings. However, the best option is a regrind. Send off your cam to a professional camshaft company (Cam Motion, for example), and they'll ask you a variety of questions about your driving style. They'll custom grind your camshaft to suit your style, and for the power that you want to receive. However, for those of you wanting an out-of-the-box cam, below are some of your options.</p><p></p><p>An Important Note. All of our engines use flat tappet camshafts. However, late 1993 and later trucks have engine blocks pre-drilled for roller lifters. Go ahead and spend the money for roller lifters, and purchase a roller cam. Costs are pretty much the same, except for the additional purchase of the lifters. With installing any flat tappet cam, you must use new lifters for that cam. It's advised that you use the same company's lifters as the cam, so that you have no warranty issues.</p><p>• Factory Stock Cam - Here are the specs on the factory stock camshaft, a flat tappet cam, from Jeff Sparkman's website (listed below). </p><p>Duration @ 0.50 Int./Exh. Degrees Advertised Duration Int./Exh. Gross Lift Int./Exh. Net Lift Int./Exh.</p><p>(with stock 1.6 Rockers) Net Lift Int./Exh.</p><p>(with 1.7 Roller Rockers)</p><p>200</p><p>214 260</p><p>274 .260"</p><p>.278" .416"</p><p>.445" .442"</p><p>.472"</p><p>• Crane Cam / FMS B351 (Crane part # 444232) - The B351 Ford cam is discontinued. The Crane 'Lightning' Cam is exactly the same as the B351 cam. They are tuned for speed-density engines (which is what a stock Lightning engine is), and are emissions legal. </p><p>Degrees Duration @ .050 Int./Exh. Degrees Advertised Duration Int./Exh. Degree Lobe Separation Open/Close @.050" Cam Lift Int./Exh. Lash Hot Int./Exh. Gross Lift Int./Exh.</p><p>206</p><p>214 268</p><p>276 114 (6) 32</p><p>46 (12) .000</p><p>.000 .448</p><p>.464</p><p>• Comp Cams (part # is 35-255-5) (grind # FW XE254H-14) - Can produce slightly more power than the Crane Cam, (10HP at the most) but does not come with a CARB #. It makes more power in the low end. Thanks to HotRod (Rod K.) for the specs. </p><p>Degrees Duration @ .050 Int./Exh. Degree Lobe Separation Net lift Int./Exh.</p><p>(with 1.7 Roller Rockers)</p><p>210</p><p>214 114 .508</p><p>.525</p><p>Update</p><p>Fellow NLOC member, sstock (Steve Stock) was able to havae his camshafts measured at Delta Cams to determine their machining. His results are as follows:</p><p>Factory stock camshaft:</p><p>LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE= 114 degrees </p><p>VALVE OVERLAP at .050 = -24.4 crank degrees </p><p>INTAKE: Valve opening= -12.2 BTDC </p><p>LOBE CENTER = 111.1 ATDC so cam has 2.9 degrees advance built in </p><p>Valve Closure= 28.4ABDC </p><p>DURATION= 196.2 CRANK DEGREES </p><p>MAX. LIFT (LOBE)= .25846" </p><p>NET VALVE LIFT (1.6 rocker ratio)= .41354" </p><p>LOBE AREA= 18.5 IN DEGREES </p><p></p><p>EXHAUST: VALVE OPENING= 40.4 BBDC </p><p>LOBE CENTER 116.8 BTDC </p><p>VALVE CLOSURE= -12.2ATDC </p><p>DURATION= 208.2 DEGREES </p><p>MAX. LIFT (LOBE)= .27634" </p><p>NET VALVE LIFT= .44214"(1.6 ratio) </p><p>LOBE AREA= 20.67" </p><p></p><p></p><p>And for the stock Mustang 5.0 HO camshaft:</p><p>INTAKE AND EXHAUST LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE: 115.8 degrees </p><p>VALVE OVERLAP AT .050= -19.3 CRANK DEGREES </p><p></p><p>INTAKE: </p><p>valve opening: -9.6BTDC </p><p>Lobe centerline 115 degrees(ground with .8 degrees advance) </p><p>valve closure: 40.7 degrees ABDC </p><p>duration: 211 crank degrees </p><p>lobe lift .2774" </p><p>Valve lift (1.6 rocker)= .44384" </p><p>Lobe area= 21.36" degree </p><p></p><p>EXHAUST: </p><p>valve opening: 42.3 bbdc </p><p>lobe center: 116.6 </p><p>valve closure:-9.6degrees </p><p>duration: 212.7 degrees crank degrees </p><p>lobe lift: .27736" </p><p>Valve lift: .44378" </p><p>lobe area= 21.45 in degree </p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Computer Chips / EEC Tuner</p><p>Chips</p><p>A computer chip can be a tricky subject. There are various things that a new chip and alter, but all the changes are made by whoever 'burns' the chip.</p><p>If you order an off-the-shelp chip, it will work fine, and you'll see a bit of power gain. But, when you start changing components of your powertrain, the chip should also reflect these changes. Therefore, it would require sending the chip back for a 'reburn', and waiting days, or weeks, for it to come back.</p><p>You could also find a local dyno/tuner that will burn a chip for you at their shop. This will allow them to dyno your vehicle, find your peak points, and burn a chip for the greatest improvement. It's also a local place to reburn your chip, in case you add additional modifications.</p><p>Most tuner shops will specialize in a single type of chip, whether it be Diablo, Superchips, Jetchips, etc. They can only tune for that specific brand of chip. So a Diablo tuner may not help you with a Superchip, and you may have to buy the Diablo chip for a tune.</p><p></p><p>I cannot give any opinion on what chip is better, they all offer unique and different tunings. An off-the-shelf chip, pretty much, is only good for changing subtle engine characteristics, for small, but noticeable gains.</p><p>However, as you add additional modifications to your engine and drivetrain, tuning a chip can bring out hidden horsepower that you wouldn't have known about. However, by running a chip that's not burned for your combination of mods, you may lose power. It's best to find a tuner you trust, and seek their advice.</p><p></p><p>Exactly what can a chip alter? Here are some examples, from Raymond Brantley's site. </p><p>Firmer transmission shifts</p><p>Removed tip in spark retard</p><p>Remove spark reduction during shifts</p><p>Revised shift pattern for more performance feel</p><p>Faster manual downshifts</p><p>Higher speed limiter</p><p>Higher rev limiter</p><p>Higher WOT shifts</p><p>Revised fuel table</p><p>Revised spark table</p><p>Use octane pin to switch between regular fuel and premium fuel (1997 and older only)</p><p>Improved engine braking when at closed throttle</p><p>Turn cooling fans on sooner</p><p>Revises torque converter function to eliminate shudder and allow it to run cooler</p><p></p><p></p><p>EEC Tuners</p><p>All that said and done, how would you like the ability to burn your own chip, or modify your truck on-the-fly? If you are knowledgeable about some minor engine settings and numbers, and have lots of time to get the best out of your combo, an EEC Tuner may be your best route. There is a higher initial cost of ownership, but you avoid the repeated $75-100 'reburn' costs.</p><p>Performance Specialties in Texas sells and supports the EEC-Tuners, and Raymond Brantley (Raymond_B) has his own forum to answer questions regarding it's use on the NLOC site.</p><p>Depending on your computer chip, you can also use your EEC Tuner to 'data log' your truck. Basically, you can hook the tuner up, run your engine, and can log all your vitals and engine performance as you drive, letting you see in actual numbers how your truck is performing. However, Raymond has reported that there have been problems using data logging on trucks with C3P2 and C3P3 computers, so they are unable to use this feature.</p><p>An EEC Tuner also will not work on any computer that has a Motorola processor. However, the only way to determine if you are running a Motorola chip is to take the cover off of your computer, and inspect the circuit board. Raymond has information in his forum on how to identify a Motorola chip vs. a working Intel chip.</p><p></p><p>Does it matter what computer I have?</p><p>Chips are burned for certain computer models. If your Lightning has a C3P1 computer, you need a chip burned for a C3P1. A chip off your friend's truck, who has a C3P2 computer, will not work.</p><p>The computer model can be found in the driver side door jamb. Just open your door, and look left of the headlight knob. It is a sticker placed on the metal.</p><p>The C3P1's are found only on 1993s. C3P2's are found in late 1993s, and 1994s. C3P3's are found only in 1994s. ICY1's are found in late 1994s and 1995 trucks.</p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Shocks</p><p>Lightnings have a stiff ride, there's no question about that. But, that's also a key to their great handling ability. Lightnings came with Monroe Formula GP shocks, from the factory, a pretty stiff shock. However, there are a few replacements brands out there.</p><p>All prices are given per shock, unless otherwise specified.</p><p>• Bilstein - These are the same style of shocks used in the 2001+ Lightnings. The ride quality is very similar to the stock style, maybe a bit stiffer. </p><p>o Front shocks part # AK-1289 - $49.95 </p><p>o Rear shocks part # AK-1290 - $49.95 </p><p>o Front shocks (for lowered trucks) part # B46-2172 - $49.95 - For Lightnings with 3" front drop, using dropped I-Beams </p><p>o Rear shocks (for lowered trucks) part # AK-2290 - $49.95 - For Lightnings with 4" rear drop, using lowered shackles </p><p>• Bell-Tech - The one major complaint about Bell-Techs is that they're too soft. </p><p>• Edelbrock Performer IAS - Mono-Tube Gas designed shocks. They offer a nice ride, that some think is a little softer than stock. </p><p>o Front Shocks part # ED3352 - $69.95 </p><p>o Rear Shocks part # ED3452 - $69.95 </p><p>• Tokico - No information known </p><p>o Front shocks part # HE3684A - $44.99 </p><p>o Rear shocks part # GE3685 - $45.99 </p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Lowering Kits</p><p>Lowering is not just an aesthetic mod to join the ranks of 'lowriders' down the street. By lowering the frame of your Lightning, you lower your center of gravity, increase your mobile agility, and decrease the amount of uncontrolled air flow beneath the vehicle. Also, remember, that Ford factory lowered the Lightnings 1" in the front, and 2.5" in the rear. </p><p>• Front end lowering </p><p>Springs</p><p>The easiest way to lower the front of your Lightning is by replacing the factory springs. It is recommended that you purchase lowered springs, do not attempt to cut your own springs. Yes, there are professional out there that are experienced with cutting springs, but chances are you're not one of them. If you cut wrong, you'll end up on the side of the road.</p><p>Always use a spring compressor when removing and installing springs, and take great caution. They contain a high amount of stored energy that can become dangerous.</p><p>All spring shocks have a progressive rate of travel. The shorther the shocks, the less rate of travel. Therefore, the shorter the shock, the rougher the ride will be.</p><p>Stock shocks can handle a decrease of 2", at the maximum, but they cause a rougher ride. If you have a 2" drop, or more, in the front, you may want to get 'lowered shocks' for the front end.</p><p>o Steeda - Lowers 2" in the front </p><p>o Eibach (part # 3542.520) - Lowers 1.3" in the front </p><p></p><p>I-Beams</p><p>Our Lightnings have a twin I-Beam front suspension. There are the two large beams that intersect in an 'X', and connect the wheels to the front axle. The most common dropped I-Beams are 3" dropped ones. They retain the same factory ride quality, without any added harshness. However, they take much more time to install, and require more experience.</p><p>3" dropped I-Beams can be combined with 2" drop springs, to create a 5" total drop in the front. However, it is advised that you contact a local suspension professional for any problems, or additional work, that may come up if you want to ride this low.</p><p>o DJM Suspension - 3" dropped I-Beams </p><p></p><p>• Rear end lowering </p><p>Hangers/Shackles</p><p>Rear hangers are complete replacement hangers that hold your leaf springs. They're manufactured to sit the rear end 2-4" lower in the rear, without sacrificing ride quality. However, they require removing the factory rivets that hold the factory hangers on, and installing new rivets. Shackles mount to the hangers. If you want a quick and easy 2" drop, install a set of shackles. If you plan on going lower in the future, install a set of hangers. You can combine the two to get a larger drop. A 2" drop shackle, installed on a 2" drop hanger, will produce a 4" drop in the rear.</p><p>Factory shocks can handle up to a 2" drop, at the maximum. At this level, the ride quality will suffer and become rougher, though. It is advised that if you are lowering 2" or more, in the rear, to purchase a set of 'lowered shocks'.</p><p>o Eibach Rear Hanger (part # 3541.920) - Lowers 2" in the rear </p><p>o Eibach Rear Shackle (part # 3816.820) - Lowers 2" in the rear </p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Traction Bars</p><p>Traction bars are almost a necessity for any Lightning that is driven on the track, or driven hard. Traction bars plant the rear end of the vehicle down on a launch, to prevent wheel slippage and the dreaded wheelhop. Excessive wheelhop can, and will, destroy your rearend gearing. There are two popular traction bars on the market for Lightnings. Traction bars mount from your axle to your frame. They're not difficult to install, and provide a lot of help with traction.</p><p>• Rancho Bars - These retail in price from $250-400. Many of the Lightning vendors offer customized Rancho's, with reinforced brackets and mounts, for extreme drag racing use. They have a longer bar than the Cal-tracs, and are very visually noticeable. If your Lightning is dropped 3" or more, in the rear, you may have clearance issues for the Ranchos. They use polyurethane bushings for a soft ride around town. </p><p>• Cal-Trac Bars - Cal-Tracs are similar to Ranchos, except they have a smaller bar. They are more stealthy, and harder to visually notice. They are also adjustable for street and strip usage. However, there have been complaints that the ride is harsher, and noisier, with the Cal-tracs installed. </p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Hoods</p><p>A new hood is a good way to make your Lightning stand out from the crowd. </p><p>There are two popular styles that are available for our trucks: cowl hoods, and ram air hoods. Both feature rear cowl vents that allow hot engine air to escape, cooling the engine. The ram air hood features two 'nostrils' on it's forward facing section, which can be cut out to allow forced air to be brought into the engine bay.</p><p>One thing to keep in mind is that just about every fiberglass hood will not come perfect and ready for installation. Most will require sanding and pre-fitting for a perfect fit.</p><p>Most manufacturers also make a "lift off" style hood. These are very light weight hoods that don't mount to the factory hardware. They are installed with 4 pins, and are not usually used on street cars. The reason being is that the hood doesn't tilt up. You must have two people to lift the hood off and place it seperately.</p><p>Cervini's Automotive -- Cervinis makes high quality fiberglass hoods and various other parts. They also make our chin spoilers (front valences). </p><p>o Cervini's Cowl Hood (part # 113) $439.00 - A 3" cowl hood that uses factory OEM hardware for mounting. It has a show-quality finished underside. </p><p>o Cervini's Ram Air Hood (part # 112) $439.00 - A hood that features a 2.5" cowl, with two forward facing air vents. It mounts using OEM factory equipment, and also features a finished underside. </p><p></p><p>US Body Source offers a few more designs and styles for our trucks. They make high quality hoods and full fiberglass tilt frontends.</p><p>o U.S. Body Source Dominator Cowl Hood (part # TFTH-92) $549.00 - A 3" cowl hood with finished underside. All openings do not come pre-cut, and you have to cut them yourself. </p><p>o U.S. Body Source GT-500 Hood (part # TFTH-93) $599.00 - A fiberglass hood with a 2" cowl raise, that includes two forward facing air vents. This is a unique design that is not found on many Lightnings (I only know of one, Devin on NLOC). </p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Tires</p><p>Tires are a necessary evil to any automobile. They are usually the last item you think about, until you find a nail in them, or wake up to a flat tire. Tire tread wear should be checked regularly, and tires should be replaced when the tread gets too low. Low tread can cause excessive hydroplaning in the water, loss of traction on dry roads, and increase the chances of a blow-out.</p><p></p><p>Street Tires</p><p>Our trucks have an unusual sized tires, but there are many different brands for our purchase. Street tires should be gauged by their traction quality, their ability to drive in the rain, and their expected wear in miles.</p><p>If your tread is less than 2/32" deep, your tires should be replaced immediately, as that is below the legal limit. The easy way to test this is to stand a penny on it's head in your tread. The spacing between the top of Abe's head, and the edge of the coin, is 2/32".</p><p>Tire UTQG Rating Tread Width Overall Diameter Estimated Cost per Tire</p><p>Bridgestone Dueler H/P 300 A A 8.9" 29.9" $150</p><p>Dunlop Sport Rover GTX2 420 A B 8.8" 30" $135</p><p>Yokohama AVS S/T 320 A A 9.1" 30" $145</p><p>BFGoodrich Comp T/A HR4-2 360 A A N/A 30" $125</p><p>Falken Ziex S/TZ-01 420 A A $120</p><p></p><p></p><p>What is the Uniform Tire Quality Grade (UTQG) Rating? -- XXX Y Z</p><p>XXX is a number that rates the wear length. A 150 tire wears 1.5 times better than a 100 tire. A 300 tire wear 3 times better than a 100 tire. The higher the number, the more miles you can expect from the tire.</p><p>Y is a AA, A, B, C letter that determines the wet braking traction. AA/A is the best, C is the worst.</p><p>Z is a A, B, C letter that determines the tire's resistance to heat at running speeds. C is the minimum required level that all tires must meet, A is the best.</p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Bumpers</p><p>Many lightnings came with the standard F150 step bumper, that was painted to match the body color. A factory option was a body-colored tube bumper. Today, though, many people are switching to rollpans.</p><p>Rollpans come in either steel or fiberglass. They are section of material that mount in the location where your bumper is now, and lie up exactly with the edge of the tailgate, so that the entire rear of the truck is a flat surface.</p><p>Steel rollpans can be welded into the box sides, removing the creases and giving a very smooth look.</p><p>Rollpans are very light weight, and give a great weight reduction, plus a better look. However, they do not hold up as well to a rear end collision as a regular step or tube bumper.</p><p>o Cervini's Roll Pan (part # 600) $125.00 </p><p>o Mar-K Roll Pan - Website catalog is down as of time of update. </p><p>o Sir Michael's Roll Pan (part # 1012877) $154.35 - A high quality steel roll pan. I believe that Sir Michaels has free shipping. If you order, call and confirm, and let me know. They did at one time. </p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Tailgate Handle Relocators</p><p>A tailgate handle relocator is a mounting bracket that allows you to mount your tailgate handle on the inside of your tailgate. Most kits also include a metal frame that can be welded into the old tailgate handle position, and filled in, to create a flush and smooth tailgate.</p><p>Not only do relocators give an extra smooth and custom look to the rear of your truck, if you have tonneau cover, they give extra security. Since the handle is located on the inside of the tailgate, you would have to open your tonnear cover to open it. This could put off many tailgate and brake light thieves.</p><p>• Sir Michael's Tailgate Handle Relocator (part # 1189300) $42.53 </p><p>• Mar-K Tailgate Handle Relocator -- Website catalog down at time of update </p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Common Q&A</p><p>• What is the back spacing on stock Lightning wheels? </p><p>o 4.5"</p><p></p><p>• What is the stock wheel bolt pattern? </p><p>o 5 x 5.5</p><p></p><p>• What are the first mods I should do on my vehicle? </p><p>These are all mods I have installed on my own truck. I picked up half a second on my e/t, and about 5MPH. </p><p>o Bump timing to 14-16* </p><p> Pros </p><p> Slightly more horsepower</p><p> Cons </p><p> Requires higher octane gasoline</p><p>o Ford 460ci Inlet Tube </p><p> Pros </p><p> More air into engine </p><p> Cheap, $10-12 </p><p> Seconds to install</p><p> Cons </p><p>o Underdrive pulleys (3-piece kit) </p><p> Pros </p><p> Definite power gains </p><p> Not too expensive, $75-100 </p><p> Less than an hour to install</p><p> Cons </p><p> Slows down accessories. Power steering will be less powerful, etc. </p><p> Requires allen socket to install</p><p>o Flex-a-lite electric fans </p><p> Pros </p><p> Definite power gains, and better gas mileage </p><p> Better cooling for your engine, and can be run at your control</p><p> Cons </p><p> Requires wiring experience </p><p> Requires 2-3 hours to install </p><p> Costly, $200-225</p><p>o Catback exhaust </p><p> Pros </p><p> Definite power gains, and better gas mileage </p><p> The exhaust tones on most catbacks are noticeable and head-turners </p><p> Installation in under an hour, with the appropriate tools</p><p> Cons </p><p> Costly, $400+</p><p>o K&N Filtercharger </p><p> Pros </p><p> Noticeable 'growl' on acceleration </p><p> Inexpensive, $75-100 </p><p> Installation in under half an hour</p><p> Cons </p><p> Requires drilling into fender lip, and wheelwell for mounting </p><p> No noticeable power improvement, slight improvement in MPG however</p><p></p><p>• What is the firing order on my Lightning? </p><p>o 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8</p><p></p><p>• My fog lights are broken! Where can I get new ones? </p><p>o Ford charges an arm and a leg for fog lights. You have two alternatives, though: </p><p>o Bosch part # 0 305 555 002 </p><p>o Nissan part # 999F1-AA003</p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Common Part Numbers</p><p></p><p>The below list was donated by Condor Legion. They are part numbers that can be found at any NAPA auto parts store.</p><p></p><p>VARIOUS GASKETS and O-RINGS FROM NAPA: </p><p>• Valve cover VS50203S </p><p>• Timing cover JV1177 </p><p>• Rear main seal RS611 or JV1636 </p><p>• Oil pan OS32144 </p><p>• Intake manifold set MS16127W </p><p>• Cylinder head CS3428 </p><p>• Injector nozzle o-ring GS33276 </p><p>• Plenum MS16100 </p><p>• TBI G30941 </p><p>• Valve stem seal (exhaust) B45591A </p><p>• Valve stem seal (intake) B45418 </p><p>• Water outlet C2400S </p><p>• Water pump mounting K30708 </p><p>• Water pump back plate K30707 </p><p>OTHER RANDOM PART #'S FROM NAPA:</p><p>• 351HO Vin code R camshaft (uh-huh) 229-2155 </p><p>• Plain cast ring set (cast iron top ring) 51497 </p><p>• Plain cast ring set (moly top ring) 41497 </p><p>• Oil pump 601-1126 </p><p>• Fuel pressure regulator 31304A </p><p>• MPI tune-up kit 2-12064A </p><p>• Idle air control valve 31943 </p><p>• Oxygen sensor OS220 </p><p>• OEM style front brake rotors 86445 </p><p>• High Performance Brake Rotors: Slotted, NOT cross-drilled PR86445R (right) & PR86445L (left). </p><p>Assorted Ford Part #s </p><p>• GT-40 upper intake gasket (goes between upper and lower, one pkg of 4 pcs): F2TZ-9H486-B </p><p>• GT-40 upper intake gasket from Summit Racing ($19.99 for 5 gaskets): FMS-M9486A50 </p><p>• Throttle Body Gasket (paper): F67Z-9E936-AA </p><p>• EGR Gasket (silver/metallic): F2TZ-9E464-A </p><p>• Lincoln Navigator Torque Convertor: 1L7Z-7902-BARM </p><p>• Rear Main Seal (from NAPA): JV611 </p><p>• Driver's side seat tilt handle: XL2Z-7862649-AA </p><p>• 1993 K&N Oil Filter: HP-3001 </p><p>• 1994-95 K&N Oil Filter: HP-2010 </p><p>• 1994-95 Gold Oil Filter (NAPA): fil1372 </p><p>• K&N conical filter (Jegs, $46.99): 599-RE-0810 </p><p>• Ford Urethane radius arm kit: F1TZ-3B203-B </p><p>• Passenger side dash repair kit: F4TZ-1504366-A </p><p>• 1999 F250 Transmission pan (adds 2 qts, fits to E4OD): F81Z-7A194-BA </p><p>• 1999 F250 Transmission gasket: F6TZ-7A191-A </p><p>• 1999 F250 Transmission filter and seal: YC3Z-7A098-BA </p><p>• Center seat roll door: F4TZ-15043K78-A </p><p>• Center seat trim bezel: F4TZ-1506250-A </p><p>• Center seat compartment door: F4TZ-1511586-A </p><p>• 1995 Transmission front pump (can, and should, be used with earlier models on rebuild): F81Z-7A103-BA </p><p>• Bosch foglights: 0 305 555 002 </p><p>• Nissan 1993-95 foglights (fits our trucks): 999F1-AA003 </p><p>• Gen2 Lightning fender emblem: XL3Z-16720-AA </p><p>• Gen2 Lightning tailgate emblem: XL3Z-8342528-AA </p><p></p><p>Additions sent in by Shawn (TeamRhinoRacing)</p><p>• Ford Lightning EFI Plate: F3TE-9E434-CA </p><p>• Ford Distributor Cap Brass Contacts: F5ZZ-12106-AA </p><p>• Ford Distributor Rotor: E6TZ-12200-F </p><p>• Ford Motorcraft Sparkplugs GT-40 Iron: AWSF-32C </p><p>• Ford Motorcraft Sparkplugs GT-40 Alum: AGSF-32C </p><p>• Ford Throttle position Sensor: E8ZF-9B989AA-5E25A </p><p>• Ford EGR Valve: F2TZ-9H473-A </p><p>• Ford EVP: F2ZZ-9G428-B </p><p>• Ford Catalytic Pipe Exhaust Gasket: F3TZ-5E241-A </p><p>• Ford Rear Brake Shoes ’93: F3UZ-2200-A </p><p>• Ford Differential Shim Kit: F5AZ-4947-BA </p><p>• Ford Synthetic Differential Fluid: F1TZ-19580-B </p><p>• Ford Fuel Injector O-Rings: F0PZ-9229-A </p><p>• Ford Radiator Air Shield Left: F4TZ-8310-A </p><p>• Ford Radiator Air Shield Right: F4TZ-8311-A </p><p>• Ford Lower Radiator Hose: F4TZ-8286-C </p><p>• Ford Lower Radiator Hose (to Oil Cooler): F4TZ-6K741-A </p><p>• Ford Lower Radiator Shield: F3TZ-8327-C </p><p>• Ford Windshield Cowl Panel: F6TZ-15022A68-AA </p><p>• Ford Lightning Front Valance (93 Red): F3TZ-17626-A </p><p>• Ford Lightning Front Valance (94 White): F4TZ-17626-G </p><p>• Ford Front Bumper Pad: F2TZ-17K833-A </p><p>• Ford Lightning Rim Center Cap: F3TA-1A096-EA </p><p>• Ford Lightning Tube Bumper End Cap: E8TZ-17810-A </p><p>• Ford Instrument Dash Cover: F2TB-15044D70-BJ </p><p>• Ford Rubber Steering Column Boot: F2TB-15045550-AB </p><p>• Ford Ignition Switch: F4DZ-11572-B </p><p>• Ford Fuel Tank Select Switch: F2TB-9A050-AB </p><p>• Ford Lightning Fog Light Switch: F3TJ-15K218-AA </p><p>• Ford Center Seat Belt ’93: F2TZ-15611B60-D </p><p>• Ford F-150 Jack Instructions Decal: E7TA-17A083-GA </p><p>• Ford Blue Oval Emblem Tailgate: E9TZ-9842528-A </p><p>• Ford SVT Emblem Tailgate ’95: F5ZZ-6342528-AA </p><p>• Ford Lightning Fender Emblem ’99: XL3Z-16720-A </p><p>• Ford Interior Primer ‘94-’95: F6AZ-19A316-BA </p><p>• Ford Interior Paint ‘94-’95: M4JZ-19M547-4221H </p><p>• Ford Opal Gray Floor Carpet ‘94-’95: F4TZ-1513000-BAY </p><p>• Ford Lightning Logo Floor Mats ’93: F3TZ-1513086-A </p><p>• Ford Lightning Logo Floor Mat LH ‘94-’95: F2TJ-9813087-AAW </p><p>• Ford Lightning Logo Floor Mat RH ‘94-’95: F2TJ-9813086-AAW </p><p>• K&N FIPK Replacement Filter: RF-1003 </p><p>• Upper Radiator Hose-Sparkman: GATES 21074 </p><p>• NGK TR5 Spark Plug: 2238 </p><p>• Powerdyne Blower Belt: K060660 - 21mmx1695mm </p><p>• Powerdyne Blower Belt w/ 7” Crank Pulley: K060670 - 21mmx1715mm </p><p>• Powerdyne Blower Belt w/ 7” Crank Pulley: K060672 - 21mmx1720mm </p><p>Ford Lightning Belts </p><p>o Stock Pulleys: K061020 </p><p>o Stock Pulleys w/Smog Pump Eli. Bracket: K061010 - 21mmx2585mm </p><p>o Motorsport A-50 Pulleys: K061000 </p><p>o Motorsport A-50 Pulleys w/Smog Eli. Bracket: K060990 - 21mmx2530mm </p><p>o Motorsport A-50 Pulleys w/o Smog Pump: K060908 </p><p>Vern Jones Lightning Parts List</p><p>This parts list was originally compiled by Vern Jones. It's provided for information purposes only and NLOC makes no guarantees of either the accuracy of the part number or of the effectiveness of the parts listed. </p><p>Part Description Part Number</p><p>Energy Suspension Bushings</p><p>Front Bar</p><p>Front End Links</p><p>Rear Bar</p><p>Radius Arm Bushings</p><p>Body-Cab Mounts</p><p>Tie-rod Dust Boots</p><p>Axle Pivot Bushings</p><p>Leaf Spring Bushings</p><p> Spring/Shackle Set</p><p> Frame Shackles</p><p>Lubricant </p><p>9.5161G</p><p>45106</p><p>45124</p><p>4.7110G</p><p>4-4107</p><p>9-13101 (pair)</p><p>4-3119</p><p> </p><p>4-2122</p><p>4-2127</p><p>9-11101 </p><p>Suspension Components</p><p>Edelbrock Shocks</p><p> Front</p><p> Rear</p><p>KYB Shocks</p><p> Front</p><p> Rear</p><p>I-Beam Pivot Bracket</p><p>Rancho Torque Arms</p><p> Bracket</p><p> Bars </p><p></p><p>3352</p><p>3452</p><p></p><p>KG5440</p><p>KG5441</p><p>F4TZ-313178-A</p><p></p><p>RS5582</p><p>RS6672 </p><p>Intake and Exhaust</p><p>Bassani</p><p> Full Exhaust w/NASTRUCK Tip</p><p> Reference Part Number</p><p>Borla</p><p> Front Exit</p><p> Rear Exit</p><p>Ford Diesel Intake Tube</p><p>Intake Spacers</p><p> FMS 3/8"</p><p> FMS 1"</p><p> BBK 3/8"</p><p>K&N Filters</p><p> '93-'95 Panel Replacement</p><p> '99 Panel Replacement</p><p> 9" Cone</p><p> '93-'95 FIPK </p><p></p><p>58150L-960</p><p>58150L-X</p><p></p><p>14601</p><p>14463</p><p>F2TZ-9A675-A</p><p></p><p>M-9486-A52</p><p>M-9486-A53</p><p>BBK 1506</p><p></p><p>33-2023</p><p>33-2140</p><p>RE0910</p><p>FIPK 57-2517</p><p>Ignition</p><p>MSD</p><p> Distributor Cap</p><p> Rotor</p><p>Accel</p><p> Cap & Rotor</p><p> HD Distributor Cap</p><p>Ford Distributor Cap</p><p>Ford Rotor</p><p>Crane Coil</p><p>Motorcraft Sparkplugs</p><p>NGK Sparkplugs</p><p> Stock Replacement</p><p> 1 Heat Range Colder</p><p> 2 Heat Ranges Colder </p><p></p><p>8408</p><p>8070</p><p></p><p>8234</p><p>8233</p><p>F5ZZ-12106-AA</p><p>E6TZ-12200-F</p><p>730-0391</p><p>AWSF-32C</p><p></p><p></p><p>TR5</p><p>TR6</p><p>Valvetrain</p><p>Crane</p><p> Lightning Cam (FMS B351)</p><p> Lifters</p><p>FMS Roller Rockers</p><p> 1.6 Ratio</p><p> 1.7 Ratio</p><p> Cobra 1.7 Ratio </p><p></p><p>Compucam 2030</p><p>444232</p><p></p><p>M-6564-B351</p><p>M-6564-E351</p><p>M-6564-A50</p><p>Driveline</p><p>B&M</p><p> Shift Plus</p><p> Shift Improver Kit</p><p> Transpak</p><p>Ford</p><p> Sythetic Diff. Fluid</p><p> Friction Modifier </p><p></p><p>70381</p><p>10025</p><p>10055</p><p></p><p>F1TZ-19580</p><p>F3TZ-19B546-MA</p><p>Fuel System</p><p>Ford</p><p> Front Pump</p><p> Front Sender</p><p> Rear Pump</p><p> Rear Sender</p><p> Fuel Filter </p><p></p><p>F4TZ-9A407-A</p><p>F0TZ-9A299-AA</p><p>F4TZ-9A407-C</p><p>F0TZ-9A299-CB</p><p>FG-872</p><p>Miscellaneous</p><p>Bosch Fog Lamp Lenses</p><p>Nissan Fog Lamp Lenses</p><p>Wolf Bra (Summit)</p><p>Performance Friction</p><p> '93 Regular</p><p> '93 Z</p><p> '94-'95 Regular</p><p> '94-'95 Z</p><p>March Power Pulleys</p><p> Black Powdercoat</p><p> Aluminum</p><p> Gates Accessory Belt</p><p>Flex-A-Lite Dual Electrics</p><p>'93-'95 Lightning Decals</p><p> Bed Right Side</p><p> Bed Left Side</p><p> Tailgate</p><p>'99 Lightning Fender Emblem</p><p>Ford PCV Valve</p><p>Powerdyne Supercharger Kit</p><p> Satin</p><p> Polished</p><p>Vortech Supercharger Kit</p><p> Satin</p><p> Polished</p><p>'94-'95 Interior Primer</p><p>'94-'95 Interior Paint </p><p>0 305 555 002</p><p>999F1-AA003</p><p>WLF-482-22051</p><p></p><p>3754</p><p>375Z</p><p>6324</p><p>632Z</p><p></p><p>1015</p><p>2015</p><p>K060990</p><p>FLX-210</p><p></p><p>F3TZ-9925622-A</p><p>F3TZ-9925622-B</p><p>F3TZ-9942528-A</p><p>XL3Z-16720-A</p><p>EV-68-C</p><p></p><p>K10189-101</p><p>K10189-201</p><p></p><p>4FC218-040S</p><p>4FC218-048S</p><p>F6AZ 19A316 BA</p><p>M4JZ 19M547 4221H </p><p>Some additional information regarding distributor caps, sent in by Jimmy Lightning: </p><p>• Ford Lightning Distributor Cap with Aluminum Contacts: Part Number F3TZ12106A - approximately $40.00. This is the recommended replacement cap for 93-96 Lightnings. It is made out of Rynite, which has high dielectric properties. </p><p>• Ford Mustang Distributor Cap Brass Contacts: Part Number F5ZZ-12106-AA. -approximately $12.00 (This FoMoCo cap will fit Lightnings for less money). </p><p>• Summit Racing Distributor Cap: Part Number MSD-8408. -approximately $12.00. (This cap will fit Lightnings). It is also made out of Rynite. </p><p>________________________________________</p><p>Credits / Suggestions</p><p></p><p>This FAQ is an unofficial Lightning FAQ. All information is believed to be true, but I can not be responsible for any wrong information. Sometimes things are mistyped, or are just wrong. If so, please contact me immediately, and I will correct the information that I have. I am not a mechanical expert, I have had no training in engine work, or vehicular work. I just love my truck, and would like to share information and resources with my fellow Lightning owners. I receive no profit from this page. The only reason I created it was because I had a week of downtime, due to knee surgery, and created it out of boredom. Regular updates cannot be guaranteed. But, if I receive additional information, or corrections, I will do my best to have that information in here within 24 hours.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Thanks!</p><p>Thank you to the following people and sites, for giving me so much data and help with this page (and constructive criticism <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />)</p><p></p><p>National Lightning Owners Club - Free message forum, but for a small yearly due you can become a member. You'll receive a membership number, decals for your truck, a T-Shirt, a regular newsletter, and many discounts from Lightning vendors.</p><p></p><p>JJ's SVT Performance - JJ is a Johnny Lightning distributor and installer in the Gaithersburg, MD area. He is a great guy for technical advice, and is willing to bend over backwards to help. He has worked on my truck many times, usually for just general problems and issues, and has always come through for me.</p><p></p><p>The folks of NLOC, too many to list. Everytime I have a question, I just hit the search button and can almost always find an answer. If I don't, then I just ask the question, and within hours I'll get every answer I'll need. Thank you guys!</p><p></p><p>And can't forget Jeff Sparkman's 'Hookatoo' site <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> An inspiration for many a Lightning owner</p><p>________________________________________</p><p></p><p></p><p>Changelog</p><p>3/05/02 - 17:30 - FAQ was first created 3/14/02 - 22:30 - added computer chips/eec tuner. Changed formatting of bumper/hood text.</p><p>3/23/02 - 20:15 - Added few more questions to Q&A: firing order, first mods, wheel pattern.</p><p>4/07/02 - 16:35 - Fixed some spelling mistakes, added section for street tires.</p><p>4/13/02 - 17:00 - Added fog light replacement parts numbers.</p><p>9/03/02 - 11:45 - Changed small items in cams and hoods section.</p><p>11/30/02 - 12:32 - Updated paint information with info from Sal (LightningTuner), and added part numbers donated by Condor Legion.</p><p>01/27/03 - 17:51 - Added part #'s for upper intake gasket, and from Vern Jones' list. Also added a ton of part #s from NLOC.</p><p>02/01/03 - 11:07 - Fixed production number on '94 Whites</p><p>04/05/03 - 12:18 - Added more part #'s, thanks to Shawn (RhinoRacing)</p><p>04/05/03 - 23:03 - Updated 93 and 95 interior colors, thanks Jimmy Lightning</p><p>04/27/03 - 19:14 - Added info regarding distributor caps to Part # area, thanks Jimmy Lightning</p><p>08/18/03 - 13:37 - Added How-To Guide information</p><p>11/20/03 - 18:00 - Bob Marco submitted some more help for replacing the clock spring</p><p>12/13/03 - 12:36 - Added Gen2 Production numbers, based on table by DHFerguson</p><p>02/22/04 - 16:34 - Added new cam specs, thanks to Steve Stock</p><p>Ciao, Brian Baskin Owner of a 1993 Black Ford Lightning #4317</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="FastazzL, post: 6138875, member: 17811"] 94-95 had a roller ready block and you can do the conversion for around $200 and the 95's had the best tranny. Below is some more info for ya: Gen1 Production Numbers Year Black Red White Total 1993 2,691 2,585 N/A 5,276 1994 1,382 1,165 1,460 4,007 1995 824 695 761 2,280 93-95 4,897 4,445 2,221 11,563 Because there were a few people interested in a comparison, here are the production numbers for Gen2 Lightnings. Thanks to DHFerguson Gen2 Production Numbers Year Black Red White Silver Blue Grey Total 1999 1,601 1,533 866 N/A N/A N/A 4,000 2000 1,596 1,405 928 1,037 N/A N/A 4,966 2001 1,908 1,722 1,170 1,581 N/A N/A 6,381 2002 1,198 1,086 294* 1,018 1,130 N/A 4,726 2003 1,036 735 606 N/A 723 1,170 4,270 99-03 7,339 6,481 3,864 3,636 1,853 1,170 24,343 * - For 2002, SVT did not offer White until very late in the year. Specifications for 1993-1995 Lightning vehicles (Generation 1) Engine Specs Type 90 degree V-8, OHV, 16 valves Bore x Stroke (in.) 4.00 x 3.50 Displacement 5.8L (351 cu. in.) (5752 cc) Compression Ratio 8.8:1 Horsepower (SAE Net) 240 HP @ 4200 RPM Torque 340 lbs./ft. @ 3200 RPM Fuel System Multi-Port Electric Fuel Injection Throttle Body Single TB - 65 mm Camshaft High Torque Intake Valves 1 per cylinder, 1.84 in. Diameter Exhaust Valves 1 per cylinder, 1.54 in. Diameter Pistons Hypereutectic Cylinder Block Cast Iron Cylinder Heads GT-40 Design, Cast Iron Intake Manifolds Upper - Tuned Length Tubular Aluminum Lower - Cast Aluminum Exhaust Manifolds Tubular stainless steel, Header type Exhaust System Dual stainless steel; including 4 Catalytic Convertors, 2 Mufflers, 2 Tailpipes Drivetrain Specs Configuration Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive Transmission Heavy Duty E40D, Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive with Brake/Shift Interlock Gear Ratios 1st: 2.71 2nd: 1.54 3rd: 1.00 4th (OD): 0.71 Reverse: 2.18 Driveshaft 4.0 Diameter, Aluminum Rear Axle Heavy Duty 8.8 in.; Limited Slip Differential 4.10:1 Final Gear Ratio Suspension Specs Front Suspension Twin I-Beam, Radius Arms, Coil Springs, Monroe Formula GP Shocks, 1.0 in. Diameter Stabilizer Bar Rear Suspension Rigid Axle, Leaf Springs, Monroe Forumla GP Shocks 1.0 in. Diameter Stabilizer Bar Steering Type Power Assisted, Integral Recirculating Ball Steering Gear Steering Gear Ratio 17.0:1 Brakes/Wheels Specs Brakes Type Power Assisted Disc/Drum, Rear Anti-Lock Front Brakes Disc, Rotor Diameter 297.7 mm (11.72 in.) Rear Brakes Drum, 280 x 57mm (11.03 x 2.25 in.) Wheels Cast Aluminum Five-Spoke 17x8 in. Tires Firestone Firehawk GTA, BSW P275/60HR-17 Miscellaneous Info Exterior Colors 1993: Non-Clearcoat Black and Non-Clearcoat Bright Red Exterior Colors 1994: Ebony Clearcoat, Crimson Clearcoat, Oxford White Exterior Colors 1995: Bright Red Clearcoat, Crimson Clearcoat, Oxford White Interior Color 1993: Dark Charcoal Interior Color 1994: Opal Grey Interior Color 1995: Dark Charcoal Wheelbase 116.8 in. (2967 mm) Overall Length - With Step Bumper 201.8 in. (5125 mm) Ground Clearance 8.2 in. (208 mm) Front Track 64.2 in. (1631 mm) Rear Track 63.5 in. (1613 mm) Width 79.0 in. (2007 mm) Height 68.9 in. (1750 mm) Head Room 39.6 in. (1006 mm) Leg Room 41.1 in. (1044 mm) Cab Volume 62 cubic ft. Fuel Capacity 34.7 Gallons Curb Weight 4480 lbs. Weight Distribution 55.8/44.2 Maximum Payload 745 lbs Maximum Trailer Weight 5000 lbs. Performance Numbers 0-60 MPH 7.2 seconds 0-100 MPH 25.7 seconds 1/4 mile 15.6 seconds @ 87.4 MPH Top Speed 110 MPH (electronic limited) Lateral Acceleration: 300-ft Skidpad 0.88 g Braking: 60 MPH - 0 143 feet Braking: 70 MPH - 0 184 feet Fuel Economy - City 12 MPG Fuel Economy - Highway 16 MPG Standard equipment on 1993-1995 Lightnings were: • Supplemental Restrain System: Driver-Side (Airbag) (On 1994+ vehicles only) • XLT Trim • Premium Bucket Seats with Power Lumbar Support • Center Floor Console (on 1993 and some 1994 trucks) or Center folding seat (on some 1994 and all 1995 trucks) • Functional Front Air Dam with Fog Lights • Electric AM/FM Stereo with Cassette/Digital Clock and Four Speakers (CD Player was an option in 1994+ trucks) • Power Side Windows and Power Door Locks • Air Conditiong • Speed Control/Tilt Steering Wheel • Interval Wipers • Light and Convenience Group B Available options for 1993-1995 Lightnings were: • Tubular Rear Bumper • Electric Side Mirrors • Trailer Towing Package • Sliding Rear Windows • Security Group: Remote Keyless Entry/Anti-Theft System (on 1994+ only) • Compact Disc Player (on 1994+ only) • Convertible Console Center Seat (on 1994, standard in 1995, N/A in 1993) • Light and Convenience Group A ________________________________________ Exhaust Modifying the exhaust on your Lightning is a good way to bring out a lot of the power from the engine. By doing a complete exhaust conversion, you can cut nearly half a second off your e/t. Headers A typical header install, though time consuming, will net positive and noticeable gains for your truck. A typical install will take anywhere from 2.5-5 hours, depending on which manufacturer you use, and typically show results of up to 15HP, and 20-25 ft/lbs of torque. Most companies will make a base stainless steel model. Ceramic coated headers can be bought, at an additional cost of $100-200, or can be coated by a local professional. The ceramic coating maintains the finish of the headers, so that they will not dull or discolor, as stainless steel headers usually do. If you buy regular steel headers, it may be a good idea to have them ceramic coated prior to installation. This will insure that you avoid rust problems with them in the future. o JBA (part # 1628-2) - One of the best shorty headers for the Lightning engines, at a higher cost. They run from $375-$400 stainless steel (uncoated). o Bassani (part # 58150L) - The best choice for best performance for dollar spent. The stainless steel headers run from $300-350. o Ford Motorsports (FMS) - One of the most frustrating headers for installation. Cat pipes The cat pipe is the piece of tubing that collects exhaust from the headers, and transfers it to the 'catback'. Quite simply, the cat-pipe is where your catalytic convertors are mounted. Lightning have dual pipes, with a total of four catalytic convertors. When upgrading your cat-pipe, you have a choice. You can purchase a high-flow cat-pipe, that retains catalytic convertors, but allows more exhaust flow. Or, you could purchase a cat-pipe that has no catalytic convertors at all. These are made for off-road use only, and your vehicle will not pass visual emissions inspections without the convertors. Cat-pipes are not too difficult to install, but may require removing the transmission crossmember. Typical gains run from 5-15HP, depending on other engine modifications. It is highly recommended not to run an off-road pipe with your stock cat-back exhaust. It greatly changes your exhaust tone, and has not been favored by very many people. o Bassani Hi-Flow Cats (part # 58150L-3) - High quality item. Price ranges from $450-500. o Bassani Off-road Cat-less pipe (part # 58150L-2) - Not street legal Cat-back exhausts A cat-back is the exhaust tubing that is located behind the catalytic convertor pipe, and extends back to the exhaust tips, hence the name Cat-back. The cat-back contains the muffler(s). For Lightnings, there are three different styles of cat-backs. Forward exit exhausts have the exhaust tips in front of the right rear tire. Rear exit (or Over-the-axle) exhausts have the exhaust tips behind the right rear tire (stock location). There are also rear-facing exhausts that have the exhaust tips under the rear bumper of the truck. For all exhaust tubing, mandrel bends are highly recommended. Traditional bends in the exhaust tubes actually crimp the tube, restricting and disrupting exhaust flow. Mandrel bends are a nice, clean bend that does neither. A general rule is that the longer the exhaust tubing, the quieter, and more mellow, the exhaust tone will be. Many performance exhausts are located in forward-exit style, for a mean, loud tone. o Bassani Quiet Thunder Forward-Exit (part # 58150L-4) - Dual muffler, dual pipe. Retails from $475-525. o Bassani Quiet Thunder Over-Axle (part # 58150L-5) - Dual muffler, dual pipe. Retails from $425-475. o Borla Rear-exit (part # 14463) o Borla front-exit (Nastruck) (part # 14601) - Not in production anymore. ________________________________________ Air Intakes If you look at how an engine works, it is exactly like a large, complex, air pump. So, the more air you bring into the engine, the more performance you'll get out of the engine, to a certain extent. The air intake is composed of three parts: the plastic inlet tube, running from the front of the truck to the air filter, the air filter, and the "S" hose running from the filter to the throttle body (at the top of the engine). Air Inlet Tube The stock inlet tube mounts to the top of the radiator, and feeds air to the filter. Just by looking at it, it is easy to tell that it is a minor bottleneck. However, a cheap replacement exists. o Ford F-250 460ci Inlet tube (part # F3TZ-9A675-B) - This inlet tube attaches to the filter box the same as the stock one. However, it mounts to the driver side of the radiator. If you take out the grille, it's easy to see a large, vertical, rectangular hole beside the radiator. This inlet tube attaches here to bring in extra air. The end of the tube does have a curve to it. There have been many owners that have cut this curve off, so that air flows directly into the tube. If you live in very wet areas, you may not want to do that however, as it will make it very easy for water to be introduced to the filter. Air Filters o K & N (part # 33-2023 (??)) - Replacement air filter that fits into the stock air box. It is reuseable, and has a lifetime guarantee. o Fram (part # ) - Replacement for air filter. Air Filter Conical Kits o K & N FIPK (part # 57-2517) - This is a large cone filter that attaches to the end of your 'S' air hose. It completely replaces the stock air box, and requires drilling into the fender lip and fender liner. To use your air inlet tube, you must drill and bolt (or zip-tie) it to the fender lining. o K & N Conical filter (part # ) - 9" conical filter, without the mounting hardware. This is a cheaper alternative, if you have the means for fabricating your own mounting hardware. "S" Hose The "S" hose, while having nice bends, is designed in a way that extends the length of travel between the air filter and the throttle body. It also can be improved on, using a larger diameter hose. Many people have had luck using simple clothes dryer duct. It is very inexpensive, and flexible. ________________________________________ Fans/Cooling All that speed is for naught if you overheat your engine. The stock fan assembly does do a good job at cooling your engine, but it can be improved upon. The stock fan is attached to the water pump pulley, and produces a large amount of rotational mass on the engine. By removing the fan, you 'free up' 5-10 HP. Electric Fans When installing electric fans, care must be taken to your wiring methods. A relay and adjustable thermostat are highly recommended. Also take care to wire to your A/C, so that the fans turn on everytime your A/C is turned on. • Flex-a-Lite (part # FLX-220) - This is a dual electric fan that replaces the stock fan. It covers a large portion of your radiator, and pushes about 2,700 CFM. They run from $175-200, and you can typically see results of nearly 1/10th cut off your e/t, and a gain of .5 to 1MPH on your trap speed. Installation ranges between 1.5 to 3 hours, depending on expertise. • Flex-a-Lite (part # FLX-210) - This is the same exact fan as the above, but includes an adjustable thermostat and A/C relay. This is the preferred unit. The cost ranges from $200-225. Radiators The stock radiator should be capable enough for most high performance needs. There are two variations though. If your truck had the towing option, it has a larger radiator, at 4" thick. The normal radiator is only 2" thick, with a different fan shroud. Transmission Coolers All Lightnings are equipped with transmission coolers, mounted forward of the radiator. ________________________________________ Camshafts A camshaft is a cylindrical object with precise lumps and valleys machined onto it. These lumps open and close the intake and exhaust valves at certain times, for certain durations of time, and to certain distances. A camshaft can make or break your engine combo, depending on how it's machined. There are a few out-of-the-box camshafts (cams) available for the Lightnings. However, the best option is a regrind. Send off your cam to a professional camshaft company (Cam Motion, for example), and they'll ask you a variety of questions about your driving style. They'll custom grind your camshaft to suit your style, and for the power that you want to receive. However, for those of you wanting an out-of-the-box cam, below are some of your options. An Important Note. All of our engines use flat tappet camshafts. However, late 1993 and later trucks have engine blocks pre-drilled for roller lifters. Go ahead and spend the money for roller lifters, and purchase a roller cam. Costs are pretty much the same, except for the additional purchase of the lifters. With installing any flat tappet cam, you must use new lifters for that cam. It's advised that you use the same company's lifters as the cam, so that you have no warranty issues. • Factory Stock Cam - Here are the specs on the factory stock camshaft, a flat tappet cam, from Jeff Sparkman's website (listed below). Duration @ 0.50 Int./Exh. Degrees Advertised Duration Int./Exh. Gross Lift Int./Exh. Net Lift Int./Exh. (with stock 1.6 Rockers) Net Lift Int./Exh. (with 1.7 Roller Rockers) 200 214 260 274 .260" .278" .416" .445" .442" .472" • Crane Cam / FMS B351 (Crane part # 444232) - The B351 Ford cam is discontinued. The Crane 'Lightning' Cam is exactly the same as the B351 cam. They are tuned for speed-density engines (which is what a stock Lightning engine is), and are emissions legal. Degrees Duration @ .050 Int./Exh. Degrees Advertised Duration Int./Exh. Degree Lobe Separation Open/Close @.050" Cam Lift Int./Exh. Lash Hot Int./Exh. Gross Lift Int./Exh. 206 214 268 276 114 (6) 32 46 (12) .000 .000 .448 .464 • Comp Cams (part # is 35-255-5) (grind # FW XE254H-14) - Can produce slightly more power than the Crane Cam, (10HP at the most) but does not come with a CARB #. It makes more power in the low end. Thanks to HotRod (Rod K.) for the specs. Degrees Duration @ .050 Int./Exh. Degree Lobe Separation Net lift Int./Exh. (with 1.7 Roller Rockers) 210 214 114 .508 .525 Update Fellow NLOC member, sstock (Steve Stock) was able to havae his camshafts measured at Delta Cams to determine their machining. His results are as follows: Factory stock camshaft: LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE= 114 degrees VALVE OVERLAP at .050 = -24.4 crank degrees INTAKE: Valve opening= -12.2 BTDC LOBE CENTER = 111.1 ATDC so cam has 2.9 degrees advance built in Valve Closure= 28.4ABDC DURATION= 196.2 CRANK DEGREES MAX. LIFT (LOBE)= .25846" NET VALVE LIFT (1.6 rocker ratio)= .41354" LOBE AREA= 18.5 IN DEGREES EXHAUST: VALVE OPENING= 40.4 BBDC LOBE CENTER 116.8 BTDC VALVE CLOSURE= -12.2ATDC DURATION= 208.2 DEGREES MAX. LIFT (LOBE)= .27634" NET VALVE LIFT= .44214"(1.6 ratio) LOBE AREA= 20.67" And for the stock Mustang 5.0 HO camshaft: INTAKE AND EXHAUST LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE: 115.8 degrees VALVE OVERLAP AT .050= -19.3 CRANK DEGREES INTAKE: valve opening: -9.6BTDC Lobe centerline 115 degrees(ground with .8 degrees advance) valve closure: 40.7 degrees ABDC duration: 211 crank degrees lobe lift .2774" Valve lift (1.6 rocker)= .44384" Lobe area= 21.36" degree EXHAUST: valve opening: 42.3 bbdc lobe center: 116.6 valve closure:-9.6degrees duration: 212.7 degrees crank degrees lobe lift: .27736" Valve lift: .44378" lobe area= 21.45 in degree ________________________________________ Computer Chips / EEC Tuner Chips A computer chip can be a tricky subject. There are various things that a new chip and alter, but all the changes are made by whoever 'burns' the chip. If you order an off-the-shelp chip, it will work fine, and you'll see a bit of power gain. But, when you start changing components of your powertrain, the chip should also reflect these changes. Therefore, it would require sending the chip back for a 'reburn', and waiting days, or weeks, for it to come back. You could also find a local dyno/tuner that will burn a chip for you at their shop. This will allow them to dyno your vehicle, find your peak points, and burn a chip for the greatest improvement. It's also a local place to reburn your chip, in case you add additional modifications. Most tuner shops will specialize in a single type of chip, whether it be Diablo, Superchips, Jetchips, etc. They can only tune for that specific brand of chip. So a Diablo tuner may not help you with a Superchip, and you may have to buy the Diablo chip for a tune. I cannot give any opinion on what chip is better, they all offer unique and different tunings. An off-the-shelf chip, pretty much, is only good for changing subtle engine characteristics, for small, but noticeable gains. However, as you add additional modifications to your engine and drivetrain, tuning a chip can bring out hidden horsepower that you wouldn't have known about. However, by running a chip that's not burned for your combination of mods, you may lose power. It's best to find a tuner you trust, and seek their advice. Exactly what can a chip alter? Here are some examples, from Raymond Brantley's site. Firmer transmission shifts Removed tip in spark retard Remove spark reduction during shifts Revised shift pattern for more performance feel Faster manual downshifts Higher speed limiter Higher rev limiter Higher WOT shifts Revised fuel table Revised spark table Use octane pin to switch between regular fuel and premium fuel (1997 and older only) Improved engine braking when at closed throttle Turn cooling fans on sooner Revises torque converter function to eliminate shudder and allow it to run cooler EEC Tuners All that said and done, how would you like the ability to burn your own chip, or modify your truck on-the-fly? If you are knowledgeable about some minor engine settings and numbers, and have lots of time to get the best out of your combo, an EEC Tuner may be your best route. There is a higher initial cost of ownership, but you avoid the repeated $75-100 'reburn' costs. Performance Specialties in Texas sells and supports the EEC-Tuners, and Raymond Brantley (Raymond_B) has his own forum to answer questions regarding it's use on the NLOC site. Depending on your computer chip, you can also use your EEC Tuner to 'data log' your truck. Basically, you can hook the tuner up, run your engine, and can log all your vitals and engine performance as you drive, letting you see in actual numbers how your truck is performing. However, Raymond has reported that there have been problems using data logging on trucks with C3P2 and C3P3 computers, so they are unable to use this feature. An EEC Tuner also will not work on any computer that has a Motorola processor. However, the only way to determine if you are running a Motorola chip is to take the cover off of your computer, and inspect the circuit board. Raymond has information in his forum on how to identify a Motorola chip vs. a working Intel chip. Does it matter what computer I have? Chips are burned for certain computer models. If your Lightning has a C3P1 computer, you need a chip burned for a C3P1. A chip off your friend's truck, who has a C3P2 computer, will not work. The computer model can be found in the driver side door jamb. Just open your door, and look left of the headlight knob. It is a sticker placed on the metal. The C3P1's are found only on 1993s. C3P2's are found in late 1993s, and 1994s. C3P3's are found only in 1994s. ICY1's are found in late 1994s and 1995 trucks. ________________________________________ Shocks Lightnings have a stiff ride, there's no question about that. But, that's also a key to their great handling ability. Lightnings came with Monroe Formula GP shocks, from the factory, a pretty stiff shock. However, there are a few replacements brands out there. All prices are given per shock, unless otherwise specified. • Bilstein - These are the same style of shocks used in the 2001+ Lightnings. The ride quality is very similar to the stock style, maybe a bit stiffer. o Front shocks part # AK-1289 - $49.95 o Rear shocks part # AK-1290 - $49.95 o Front shocks (for lowered trucks) part # B46-2172 - $49.95 - For Lightnings with 3" front drop, using dropped I-Beams o Rear shocks (for lowered trucks) part # AK-2290 - $49.95 - For Lightnings with 4" rear drop, using lowered shackles • Bell-Tech - The one major complaint about Bell-Techs is that they're too soft. • Edelbrock Performer IAS - Mono-Tube Gas designed shocks. They offer a nice ride, that some think is a little softer than stock. o Front Shocks part # ED3352 - $69.95 o Rear Shocks part # ED3452 - $69.95 • Tokico - No information known o Front shocks part # HE3684A - $44.99 o Rear shocks part # GE3685 - $45.99 ________________________________________ Lowering Kits Lowering is not just an aesthetic mod to join the ranks of 'lowriders' down the street. By lowering the frame of your Lightning, you lower your center of gravity, increase your mobile agility, and decrease the amount of uncontrolled air flow beneath the vehicle. Also, remember, that Ford factory lowered the Lightnings 1" in the front, and 2.5" in the rear. • Front end lowering Springs The easiest way to lower the front of your Lightning is by replacing the factory springs. It is recommended that you purchase lowered springs, do not attempt to cut your own springs. Yes, there are professional out there that are experienced with cutting springs, but chances are you're not one of them. If you cut wrong, you'll end up on the side of the road. Always use a spring compressor when removing and installing springs, and take great caution. They contain a high amount of stored energy that can become dangerous. All spring shocks have a progressive rate of travel. The shorther the shocks, the less rate of travel. Therefore, the shorter the shock, the rougher the ride will be. Stock shocks can handle a decrease of 2", at the maximum, but they cause a rougher ride. If you have a 2" drop, or more, in the front, you may want to get 'lowered shocks' for the front end. o Steeda - Lowers 2" in the front o Eibach (part # 3542.520) - Lowers 1.3" in the front I-Beams Our Lightnings have a twin I-Beam front suspension. There are the two large beams that intersect in an 'X', and connect the wheels to the front axle. The most common dropped I-Beams are 3" dropped ones. They retain the same factory ride quality, without any added harshness. However, they take much more time to install, and require more experience. 3" dropped I-Beams can be combined with 2" drop springs, to create a 5" total drop in the front. However, it is advised that you contact a local suspension professional for any problems, or additional work, that may come up if you want to ride this low. o DJM Suspension - 3" dropped I-Beams • Rear end lowering Hangers/Shackles Rear hangers are complete replacement hangers that hold your leaf springs. They're manufactured to sit the rear end 2-4" lower in the rear, without sacrificing ride quality. However, they require removing the factory rivets that hold the factory hangers on, and installing new rivets. Shackles mount to the hangers. If you want a quick and easy 2" drop, install a set of shackles. If you plan on going lower in the future, install a set of hangers. You can combine the two to get a larger drop. A 2" drop shackle, installed on a 2" drop hanger, will produce a 4" drop in the rear. Factory shocks can handle up to a 2" drop, at the maximum. At this level, the ride quality will suffer and become rougher, though. It is advised that if you are lowering 2" or more, in the rear, to purchase a set of 'lowered shocks'. o Eibach Rear Hanger (part # 3541.920) - Lowers 2" in the rear o Eibach Rear Shackle (part # 3816.820) - Lowers 2" in the rear ________________________________________ Traction Bars Traction bars are almost a necessity for any Lightning that is driven on the track, or driven hard. Traction bars plant the rear end of the vehicle down on a launch, to prevent wheel slippage and the dreaded wheelhop. Excessive wheelhop can, and will, destroy your rearend gearing. There are two popular traction bars on the market for Lightnings. Traction bars mount from your axle to your frame. They're not difficult to install, and provide a lot of help with traction. • Rancho Bars - These retail in price from $250-400. Many of the Lightning vendors offer customized Rancho's, with reinforced brackets and mounts, for extreme drag racing use. They have a longer bar than the Cal-tracs, and are very visually noticeable. If your Lightning is dropped 3" or more, in the rear, you may have clearance issues for the Ranchos. They use polyurethane bushings for a soft ride around town. • Cal-Trac Bars - Cal-Tracs are similar to Ranchos, except they have a smaller bar. They are more stealthy, and harder to visually notice. They are also adjustable for street and strip usage. However, there have been complaints that the ride is harsher, and noisier, with the Cal-tracs installed. ________________________________________ Hoods A new hood is a good way to make your Lightning stand out from the crowd. There are two popular styles that are available for our trucks: cowl hoods, and ram air hoods. Both feature rear cowl vents that allow hot engine air to escape, cooling the engine. The ram air hood features two 'nostrils' on it's forward facing section, which can be cut out to allow forced air to be brought into the engine bay. One thing to keep in mind is that just about every fiberglass hood will not come perfect and ready for installation. Most will require sanding and pre-fitting for a perfect fit. Most manufacturers also make a "lift off" style hood. These are very light weight hoods that don't mount to the factory hardware. They are installed with 4 pins, and are not usually used on street cars. The reason being is that the hood doesn't tilt up. You must have two people to lift the hood off and place it seperately. Cervini's Automotive -- Cervinis makes high quality fiberglass hoods and various other parts. They also make our chin spoilers (front valences). o Cervini's Cowl Hood (part # 113) $439.00 - A 3" cowl hood that uses factory OEM hardware for mounting. It has a show-quality finished underside. o Cervini's Ram Air Hood (part # 112) $439.00 - A hood that features a 2.5" cowl, with two forward facing air vents. It mounts using OEM factory equipment, and also features a finished underside. US Body Source offers a few more designs and styles for our trucks. They make high quality hoods and full fiberglass tilt frontends. o U.S. Body Source Dominator Cowl Hood (part # TFTH-92) $549.00 - A 3" cowl hood with finished underside. All openings do not come pre-cut, and you have to cut them yourself. o U.S. Body Source GT-500 Hood (part # TFTH-93) $599.00 - A fiberglass hood with a 2" cowl raise, that includes two forward facing air vents. This is a unique design that is not found on many Lightnings (I only know of one, Devin on NLOC). ________________________________________ Tires Tires are a necessary evil to any automobile. They are usually the last item you think about, until you find a nail in them, or wake up to a flat tire. Tire tread wear should be checked regularly, and tires should be replaced when the tread gets too low. Low tread can cause excessive hydroplaning in the water, loss of traction on dry roads, and increase the chances of a blow-out. Street Tires Our trucks have an unusual sized tires, but there are many different brands for our purchase. Street tires should be gauged by their traction quality, their ability to drive in the rain, and their expected wear in miles. If your tread is less than 2/32" deep, your tires should be replaced immediately, as that is below the legal limit. The easy way to test this is to stand a penny on it's head in your tread. The spacing between the top of Abe's head, and the edge of the coin, is 2/32". Tire UTQG Rating Tread Width Overall Diameter Estimated Cost per Tire Bridgestone Dueler H/P 300 A A 8.9" 29.9" $150 Dunlop Sport Rover GTX2 420 A B 8.8" 30" $135 Yokohama AVS S/T 320 A A 9.1" 30" $145 BFGoodrich Comp T/A HR4-2 360 A A N/A 30" $125 Falken Ziex S/TZ-01 420 A A $120 What is the Uniform Tire Quality Grade (UTQG) Rating? -- XXX Y Z XXX is a number that rates the wear length. A 150 tire wears 1.5 times better than a 100 tire. A 300 tire wear 3 times better than a 100 tire. The higher the number, the more miles you can expect from the tire. Y is a AA, A, B, C letter that determines the wet braking traction. AA/A is the best, C is the worst. Z is a A, B, C letter that determines the tire's resistance to heat at running speeds. C is the minimum required level that all tires must meet, A is the best. ________________________________________ Bumpers Many lightnings came with the standard F150 step bumper, that was painted to match the body color. A factory option was a body-colored tube bumper. Today, though, many people are switching to rollpans. Rollpans come in either steel or fiberglass. They are section of material that mount in the location where your bumper is now, and lie up exactly with the edge of the tailgate, so that the entire rear of the truck is a flat surface. Steel rollpans can be welded into the box sides, removing the creases and giving a very smooth look. Rollpans are very light weight, and give a great weight reduction, plus a better look. However, they do not hold up as well to a rear end collision as a regular step or tube bumper. o Cervini's Roll Pan (part # 600) $125.00 o Mar-K Roll Pan - Website catalog is down as of time of update. o Sir Michael's Roll Pan (part # 1012877) $154.35 - A high quality steel roll pan. I believe that Sir Michaels has free shipping. If you order, call and confirm, and let me know. They did at one time. ________________________________________ Tailgate Handle Relocators A tailgate handle relocator is a mounting bracket that allows you to mount your tailgate handle on the inside of your tailgate. Most kits also include a metal frame that can be welded into the old tailgate handle position, and filled in, to create a flush and smooth tailgate. Not only do relocators give an extra smooth and custom look to the rear of your truck, if you have tonneau cover, they give extra security. Since the handle is located on the inside of the tailgate, you would have to open your tonnear cover to open it. This could put off many tailgate and brake light thieves. • Sir Michael's Tailgate Handle Relocator (part # 1189300) $42.53 • Mar-K Tailgate Handle Relocator -- Website catalog down at time of update ________________________________________ Common Q&A • What is the back spacing on stock Lightning wheels? o 4.5" • What is the stock wheel bolt pattern? o 5 x 5.5 • What are the first mods I should do on my vehicle? These are all mods I have installed on my own truck. I picked up half a second on my e/t, and about 5MPH. o Bump timing to 14-16* Pros Slightly more horsepower Cons Requires higher octane gasoline o Ford 460ci Inlet Tube Pros More air into engine Cheap, $10-12 Seconds to install Cons o Underdrive pulleys (3-piece kit) Pros Definite power gains Not too expensive, $75-100 Less than an hour to install Cons Slows down accessories. Power steering will be less powerful, etc. Requires allen socket to install o Flex-a-lite electric fans Pros Definite power gains, and better gas mileage Better cooling for your engine, and can be run at your control Cons Requires wiring experience Requires 2-3 hours to install Costly, $200-225 o Catback exhaust Pros Definite power gains, and better gas mileage The exhaust tones on most catbacks are noticeable and head-turners Installation in under an hour, with the appropriate tools Cons Costly, $400+ o K&N Filtercharger Pros Noticeable 'growl' on acceleration Inexpensive, $75-100 Installation in under half an hour Cons Requires drilling into fender lip, and wheelwell for mounting No noticeable power improvement, slight improvement in MPG however • What is the firing order on my Lightning? o 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 • My fog lights are broken! Where can I get new ones? o Ford charges an arm and a leg for fog lights. You have two alternatives, though: o Bosch part # 0 305 555 002 o Nissan part # 999F1-AA003 ________________________________________ Common Part Numbers The below list was donated by Condor Legion. They are part numbers that can be found at any NAPA auto parts store. VARIOUS GASKETS and O-RINGS FROM NAPA: • Valve cover VS50203S • Timing cover JV1177 • Rear main seal RS611 or JV1636 • Oil pan OS32144 • Intake manifold set MS16127W • Cylinder head CS3428 • Injector nozzle o-ring GS33276 • Plenum MS16100 • TBI G30941 • Valve stem seal (exhaust) B45591A • Valve stem seal (intake) B45418 • Water outlet C2400S • Water pump mounting K30708 • Water pump back plate K30707 OTHER RANDOM PART #'S FROM NAPA: • 351HO Vin code R camshaft (uh-huh) 229-2155 • Plain cast ring set (cast iron top ring) 51497 • Plain cast ring set (moly top ring) 41497 • Oil pump 601-1126 • Fuel pressure regulator 31304A • MPI tune-up kit 2-12064A • Idle air control valve 31943 • Oxygen sensor OS220 • OEM style front brake rotors 86445 • High Performance Brake Rotors: Slotted, NOT cross-drilled PR86445R (right) & PR86445L (left). Assorted Ford Part #s • GT-40 upper intake gasket (goes between upper and lower, one pkg of 4 pcs): F2TZ-9H486-B • GT-40 upper intake gasket from Summit Racing ($19.99 for 5 gaskets): FMS-M9486A50 • Throttle Body Gasket (paper): F67Z-9E936-AA • EGR Gasket (silver/metallic): F2TZ-9E464-A • Lincoln Navigator Torque Convertor: 1L7Z-7902-BARM • Rear Main Seal (from NAPA): JV611 • Driver's side seat tilt handle: XL2Z-7862649-AA • 1993 K&N Oil Filter: HP-3001 • 1994-95 K&N Oil Filter: HP-2010 • 1994-95 Gold Oil Filter (NAPA): fil1372 • K&N conical filter (Jegs, $46.99): 599-RE-0810 • Ford Urethane radius arm kit: F1TZ-3B203-B • Passenger side dash repair kit: F4TZ-1504366-A • 1999 F250 Transmission pan (adds 2 qts, fits to E4OD): F81Z-7A194-BA • 1999 F250 Transmission gasket: F6TZ-7A191-A • 1999 F250 Transmission filter and seal: YC3Z-7A098-BA • Center seat roll door: F4TZ-15043K78-A • Center seat trim bezel: F4TZ-1506250-A • Center seat compartment door: F4TZ-1511586-A • 1995 Transmission front pump (can, and should, be used with earlier models on rebuild): F81Z-7A103-BA • Bosch foglights: 0 305 555 002 • Nissan 1993-95 foglights (fits our trucks): 999F1-AA003 • Gen2 Lightning fender emblem: XL3Z-16720-AA • Gen2 Lightning tailgate emblem: XL3Z-8342528-AA Additions sent in by Shawn (TeamRhinoRacing) • Ford Lightning EFI Plate: F3TE-9E434-CA • Ford Distributor Cap Brass Contacts: F5ZZ-12106-AA • Ford Distributor Rotor: E6TZ-12200-F • Ford Motorcraft Sparkplugs GT-40 Iron: AWSF-32C • Ford Motorcraft Sparkplugs GT-40 Alum: AGSF-32C • Ford Throttle position Sensor: E8ZF-9B989AA-5E25A • Ford EGR Valve: F2TZ-9H473-A • Ford EVP: F2ZZ-9G428-B • Ford Catalytic Pipe Exhaust Gasket: F3TZ-5E241-A • Ford Rear Brake Shoes ’93: F3UZ-2200-A • Ford Differential Shim Kit: F5AZ-4947-BA • Ford Synthetic Differential Fluid: F1TZ-19580-B • Ford Fuel Injector O-Rings: F0PZ-9229-A • Ford Radiator Air Shield Left: F4TZ-8310-A • Ford Radiator Air Shield Right: F4TZ-8311-A • Ford Lower Radiator Hose: F4TZ-8286-C • Ford Lower Radiator Hose (to Oil Cooler): F4TZ-6K741-A • Ford Lower Radiator Shield: F3TZ-8327-C • Ford Windshield Cowl Panel: F6TZ-15022A68-AA • Ford Lightning Front Valance (93 Red): F3TZ-17626-A • Ford Lightning Front Valance (94 White): F4TZ-17626-G • Ford Front Bumper Pad: F2TZ-17K833-A • Ford Lightning Rim Center Cap: F3TA-1A096-EA • Ford Lightning Tube Bumper End Cap: E8TZ-17810-A • Ford Instrument Dash Cover: F2TB-15044D70-BJ • Ford Rubber Steering Column Boot: F2TB-15045550-AB • Ford Ignition Switch: F4DZ-11572-B • Ford Fuel Tank Select Switch: F2TB-9A050-AB • Ford Lightning Fog Light Switch: F3TJ-15K218-AA • Ford Center Seat Belt ’93: F2TZ-15611B60-D • Ford F-150 Jack Instructions Decal: E7TA-17A083-GA • Ford Blue Oval Emblem Tailgate: E9TZ-9842528-A • Ford SVT Emblem Tailgate ’95: F5ZZ-6342528-AA • Ford Lightning Fender Emblem ’99: XL3Z-16720-A • Ford Interior Primer ‘94-’95: F6AZ-19A316-BA • Ford Interior Paint ‘94-’95: M4JZ-19M547-4221H • Ford Opal Gray Floor Carpet ‘94-’95: F4TZ-1513000-BAY • Ford Lightning Logo Floor Mats ’93: F3TZ-1513086-A • Ford Lightning Logo Floor Mat LH ‘94-’95: F2TJ-9813087-AAW • Ford Lightning Logo Floor Mat RH ‘94-’95: F2TJ-9813086-AAW • K&N FIPK Replacement Filter: RF-1003 • Upper Radiator Hose-Sparkman: GATES 21074 • NGK TR5 Spark Plug: 2238 • Powerdyne Blower Belt: K060660 - 21mmx1695mm • Powerdyne Blower Belt w/ 7” Crank Pulley: K060670 - 21mmx1715mm • Powerdyne Blower Belt w/ 7” Crank Pulley: K060672 - 21mmx1720mm Ford Lightning Belts o Stock Pulleys: K061020 o Stock Pulleys w/Smog Pump Eli. Bracket: K061010 - 21mmx2585mm o Motorsport A-50 Pulleys: K061000 o Motorsport A-50 Pulleys w/Smog Eli. Bracket: K060990 - 21mmx2530mm o Motorsport A-50 Pulleys w/o Smog Pump: K060908 Vern Jones Lightning Parts List This parts list was originally compiled by Vern Jones. It's provided for information purposes only and NLOC makes no guarantees of either the accuracy of the part number or of the effectiveness of the parts listed. Part Description Part Number Energy Suspension Bushings Front Bar Front End Links Rear Bar Radius Arm Bushings Body-Cab Mounts Tie-rod Dust Boots Axle Pivot Bushings Leaf Spring Bushings Spring/Shackle Set Frame Shackles Lubricant 9.5161G 45106 45124 4.7110G 4-4107 9-13101 (pair) 4-3119 4-2122 4-2127 9-11101 Suspension Components Edelbrock Shocks Front Rear KYB Shocks Front Rear I-Beam Pivot Bracket Rancho Torque Arms Bracket Bars 3352 3452 KG5440 KG5441 F4TZ-313178-A RS5582 RS6672 Intake and Exhaust Bassani Full Exhaust w/NASTRUCK Tip Reference Part Number Borla Front Exit Rear Exit Ford Diesel Intake Tube Intake Spacers FMS 3/8" FMS 1" BBK 3/8" K&N Filters '93-'95 Panel Replacement '99 Panel Replacement 9" Cone '93-'95 FIPK 58150L-960 58150L-X 14601 14463 F2TZ-9A675-A M-9486-A52 M-9486-A53 BBK 1506 33-2023 33-2140 RE0910 FIPK 57-2517 Ignition MSD Distributor Cap Rotor Accel Cap & Rotor HD Distributor Cap Ford Distributor Cap Ford Rotor Crane Coil Motorcraft Sparkplugs NGK Sparkplugs Stock Replacement 1 Heat Range Colder 2 Heat Ranges Colder 8408 8070 8234 8233 F5ZZ-12106-AA E6TZ-12200-F 730-0391 AWSF-32C TR5 TR6 Valvetrain Crane Lightning Cam (FMS B351) Lifters FMS Roller Rockers 1.6 Ratio 1.7 Ratio Cobra 1.7 Ratio Compucam 2030 444232 M-6564-B351 M-6564-E351 M-6564-A50 Driveline B&M Shift Plus Shift Improver Kit Transpak Ford Sythetic Diff. Fluid Friction Modifier 70381 10025 10055 F1TZ-19580 F3TZ-19B546-MA Fuel System Ford Front Pump Front Sender Rear Pump Rear Sender Fuel Filter F4TZ-9A407-A F0TZ-9A299-AA F4TZ-9A407-C F0TZ-9A299-CB FG-872 Miscellaneous Bosch Fog Lamp Lenses Nissan Fog Lamp Lenses Wolf Bra (Summit) Performance Friction '93 Regular '93 Z '94-'95 Regular '94-'95 Z March Power Pulleys Black Powdercoat Aluminum Gates Accessory Belt Flex-A-Lite Dual Electrics '93-'95 Lightning Decals Bed Right Side Bed Left Side Tailgate '99 Lightning Fender Emblem Ford PCV Valve Powerdyne Supercharger Kit Satin Polished Vortech Supercharger Kit Satin Polished '94-'95 Interior Primer '94-'95 Interior Paint 0 305 555 002 999F1-AA003 WLF-482-22051 3754 375Z 6324 632Z 1015 2015 K060990 FLX-210 F3TZ-9925622-A F3TZ-9925622-B F3TZ-9942528-A XL3Z-16720-A EV-68-C K10189-101 K10189-201 4FC218-040S 4FC218-048S F6AZ 19A316 BA M4JZ 19M547 4221H Some additional information regarding distributor caps, sent in by Jimmy Lightning: • Ford Lightning Distributor Cap with Aluminum Contacts: Part Number F3TZ12106A - approximately $40.00. This is the recommended replacement cap for 93-96 Lightnings. It is made out of Rynite, which has high dielectric properties. • Ford Mustang Distributor Cap Brass Contacts: Part Number F5ZZ-12106-AA. -approximately $12.00 (This FoMoCo cap will fit Lightnings for less money). • Summit Racing Distributor Cap: Part Number MSD-8408. -approximately $12.00. (This cap will fit Lightnings). It is also made out of Rynite. ________________________________________ Credits / Suggestions This FAQ is an unofficial Lightning FAQ. All information is believed to be true, but I can not be responsible for any wrong information. Sometimes things are mistyped, or are just wrong. If so, please contact me immediately, and I will correct the information that I have. I am not a mechanical expert, I have had no training in engine work, or vehicular work. I just love my truck, and would like to share information and resources with my fellow Lightning owners. I receive no profit from this page. The only reason I created it was because I had a week of downtime, due to knee surgery, and created it out of boredom. Regular updates cannot be guaranteed. But, if I receive additional information, or corrections, I will do my best to have that information in here within 24 hours. Thanks! Thank you to the following people and sites, for giving me so much data and help with this page (and constructive criticism :)) National Lightning Owners Club - Free message forum, but for a small yearly due you can become a member. You'll receive a membership number, decals for your truck, a T-Shirt, a regular newsletter, and many discounts from Lightning vendors. JJ's SVT Performance - JJ is a Johnny Lightning distributor and installer in the Gaithersburg, MD area. He is a great guy for technical advice, and is willing to bend over backwards to help. He has worked on my truck many times, usually for just general problems and issues, and has always come through for me. The folks of NLOC, too many to list. Everytime I have a question, I just hit the search button and can almost always find an answer. If I don't, then I just ask the question, and within hours I'll get every answer I'll need. Thank you guys! And can't forget Jeff Sparkman's 'Hookatoo' site :) An inspiration for many a Lightning owner ________________________________________ Changelog 3/05/02 - 17:30 - FAQ was first created 3/14/02 - 22:30 - added computer chips/eec tuner. Changed formatting of bumper/hood text. 3/23/02 - 20:15 - Added few more questions to Q&A: firing order, first mods, wheel pattern. 4/07/02 - 16:35 - Fixed some spelling mistakes, added section for street tires. 4/13/02 - 17:00 - Added fog light replacement parts numbers. 9/03/02 - 11:45 - Changed small items in cams and hoods section. 11/30/02 - 12:32 - Updated paint information with info from Sal (LightningTuner), and added part numbers donated by Condor Legion. 01/27/03 - 17:51 - Added part #'s for upper intake gasket, and from Vern Jones' list. Also added a ton of part #s from NLOC. 02/01/03 - 11:07 - Fixed production number on '94 Whites 04/05/03 - 12:18 - Added more part #'s, thanks to Shawn (RhinoRacing) 04/05/03 - 23:03 - Updated 93 and 95 interior colors, thanks Jimmy Lightning 04/27/03 - 19:14 - Added info regarding distributor caps to Part # area, thanks Jimmy Lightning 08/18/03 - 13:37 - Added How-To Guide information 11/20/03 - 18:00 - Bob Marco submitted some more help for replacing the clock spring 12/13/03 - 12:36 - Added Gen2 Production numbers, based on table by DHFerguson 02/22/04 - 16:34 - Added new cam specs, thanks to Steve Stock Ciao, Brian Baskin Owner of a 1993 Black Ford Lightning #4317 [/QUOTE]
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