Wheel/Tire dilemma...

UnrealSVT

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I'm in the middle of a pretty big hp street car build right now and trying to pick out wheels and tires that I like. I'm going with a 3.4 Crusher e85 setup and keeping my 6 speed and IRS. 800-900 wheel...

I really like the CCW classics and always have. 18×9.5 and 18x11.

Any suggestions on a good tire that will hook and pair up well with big power and an IRS? And yes, the IRS will have upgraded half shafts, FTBR bushings and a stronger diff cover.

Or am I asking too much, and would I be better off with a smaller wheel and more meat on the sidewall?



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V6&V8SHO

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Lol hooking on the street. My toyo TQ’s do a fairly good job but they aren’t going to cut a 1.6 60ft from a stoplight.
 

GNBRETT

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yea dude ur dreaming with that! 15x10 MT Pro Radial rear and 17x7 up front with a good summer street tire is ur only chance otherwise skating pond down the hi way!
 

UnrealSVT

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Well, shit...is it still possible to do a big brake kit and fit it into one of these above mentioned wheels?

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Bdubbs

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I really want to be able to fit a big brake kit inside of whichever wheel I choose. Beautiful wheels though...

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These are rears only. Big brakes would be up front. I was going to keep my 18" up front or go 17x5.5". I think it will be hard to run a big brake up front with a narrow wheel.

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UnrealSVT

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^this, not anything you’d want to drive on the street anyway...

Why not 18” front and 17” rear?
If I were to do 18" up front and 17" in the rear, I would be happy with some black weld wheels. Would that work alot better? What tire would work with that setup?

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ShootyMCstabby

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I bought my car with black Rep fr500 in 18x9 & 18x10.5 there are pics on here of what it looked like. The tires were toyo proxes r888's. 275/35F. 305/35/R.

I know people who like these tires say there great. But with torque these blowers put out as said your going to need a 15/16 inch rim.

If your thinking about Weld. You better order them soon. Took 8 weeks for the Alumastars 2.0's (17x4.5) and 7 1/2 week lead time for the 15x10 w/6.5BS S71 beadlocks. I have the fronts, rears should ship out the 2nd now...

To be honest unless your going to be tracking your car a lot. I would leave the calipers alone. Better pads, SS brake lines and dot4/5 fluid. But save that money for your rims trust me $$$$.
 

UnrealSVT

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I bought my car with black Rep fr500 in 18x9& 18x10.5 they are pics on here of what it looked like.The tires were toyo proxes r888's. 275/35F. 305/35/R.

I know people who like these tires say there great. But with torque these blowers put out as said your going to need a 15/16 inch rim.

If your thinking about Weld. You better order them soon. Took 8 weeks for the Alumastars 2.0's (17x4.5) and 7 1/2 week lead time for the 15x10 w/6.5BS S71 beadlocks. I have the fronts, rears should ship out the 2nd now...

To be honest unless your going to be tracking your car a lot. I would leave the calipers alone. Better pads, SS brake lines and dot4/5 fluid. But save that money for your rims trust me $$$$.
Okay sounds good. Thanks for the advice as always man. I guess I'll start looking into the Weld wheels. How do the cars handle and ride when putting a massive sidewall tire on the back with lets say a 15" wheel and then doing a 17" up front?

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ShootyMCstabby

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Np man. The ride is fine I wouldn't try and take any 4 leaf clovers or corners fast. well at least not as fast as you did before.

I haven't did the 15/17 combo yet.

on my 83 944/ls2 swap I had holeshot rear rims(15's) and 18' 911 front rims. Did have cayenne front brakes though. my 350z had 15/19's and it rode fine. Just got to remember you can't go as fast around corners but you can still take them at speeds.

Now it comes down to tires... Radial or Bias-ply ?

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ShootyMCstabby

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Ok I will try my best, lol.

10/15 years ago I would've said that the only way to go is bias-ply with a irs and a manual. But the radial tire has advanced a lot since then.
I'll list a couple differences you can look it up too, just for piece of mind.
A radial with a manual and irs will work. If you get your suspension set up for it.

Ok a radial is better for high speeds. A bais ply will be more giving on a dig.
The bias is about half the weight as a radial. A radial is a more street friendly tire.

You gotta ask your self. "Self what kind of trouble do I want to get into". lol
In my Z I did a lot of roll racing 40-180+ and after getting clocked at 155+ and having to deal with the repercussions. I will stick to dig.

So if rolling I would go with the m/t et street pro radial, it's a very goood tire 275/60/16. If dig, I would look at hoosier qtp or the m/t et street bias-ply.

I maybe put 1000 miles a year on my cars. with everything going on and my daily is a truck. So the hooiser qtp would be ok for what I plan on doing.
 

UnrealSVT

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Ok I will try my best, lol.

10/15 years ago I would've said that the only way to go is bias-ply with a irs and a manual. But the radial tire has advanced a lot since then.
I'll list a couple differences you can look it up too, just for piece of mind.
A radial with a manual and irs will work. If you get your suspension set up for it.

Ok a radial is better for high speeds. A bais ply will be more giving on a dig.
The bias is about half the weight as a radial. A radial is a more street friendly tire.

You gotta ask your self. "Self what kind of trouble do I want to get into". lol
In my Z I did a lot of roll racing 40-180+ and after getting clocked at 155+ and having to deal with the repercussions. I will stick to dig.

So if rolling I would go with the m/t et street pro radial, it's a very goood tire 275/60/16. If dig, I would look at hoosier qtp or the m/t et street bias-ply.

I maybe put 1000 miles a year on my cars. with everything going on and my daily is a truck. So the hooiser qtp would be ok for what I plan on doing.
I'm into alot of roll racing and would like to take part in some of the runway events. Don't do a lot of track or drag racing.

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