is it often they fail? how much to have a shop replace? :shrug:
wheel bearings
- Thread starter sLOWDOHC
- Start date
They shouldn't fail often. Replacement shouldn't be hard either. Remove the calipers and rotors, remove the dust cap and cotter pin. Remove the big nut holding the hub on. Slide the old hub off. Clean everything and lubricate the spindle. Slide the new hub on and reinstall everything, including transferring the wheel studs from the old to the new.
CY98Cobra said:
that's not for our cars. Fox body but we've had sealed since 94.
If you are talking about your car it has sealed bearing. about 150 from ford. around 300 out the door from Ford.
My warranty picked it up.
But in all truth all you do is take off the brake caliper and rotor and unbolt the 4 bolts that hold it on. Took me about an hour for everything.
Last edited:
Used to take me 30 minutes to jack it up :shrug: ... LOL
30 minutes + 1 hour + 30 minutes = 2 hours :beer:
30 minutes + 1 hour + 30 minutes = 2 hours :beer:
hell getting old?
Sealed or not they are still replaceable. Pop the dust cap off and remove the nut, it's that simple. Replacement hubs/bearings are about $60 per side.
Fox bodies the bearing is made into the rotor which is then bolted to the spindle. Believe me I have a fox and an sn95.
Fox bodies the bearing is made into the rotor which is then bolted to the spindle. Believe me I have a fox and an sn95.
CY98Cobra said:
Yeah I had a fox too.
You replaced the bearings inside the sealed unit?
You don't replace the bearings, you replace the hub. The hub has the bearing in it. There is no way to just replace the bearing. The whole hub has to be replaced.
the car is on the way to you josh with some $$ in the glove box...fix her up...LOL
CY98Cobra said:
Oh wow. I totally misread your earlier post. I hate being in a rush.
My bad.
sLOWDOHC said:
Bring her over, I'm more than willing:-D
VirtualSVT said:
:thumbsup: Love your avatar BTW.
what about the rears?? I think mine are going as I'm getting a pretty bad drone. 
Last edited:
You have to remove the diff cover and then remove the crosspin from the diff. Remove the wheels, calipers and rotors.
Push in on the axles and rotate until you hear the c-clips fall out.
Remove the axles.
Use a seal puller or a screwdriver and pull the axle seals out.
Use a slidehammer and/or puller and remove the bearings.
Press in the new bearings and new axle seals.
Slide the axles back in and install c-clips.
Reinstall the crosspin and diff. cover.
Reinstall the wheels and brakes.
I might have missed a couple things but that's the jist of it.
Push in on the axles and rotate until you hear the c-clips fall out.
Remove the axles.
Use a seal puller or a screwdriver and pull the axle seals out.
Use a slidehammer and/or puller and remove the bearings.
Press in the new bearings and new axle seals.
Slide the axles back in and install c-clips.
Reinstall the crosspin and diff. cover.
Reinstall the wheels and brakes.
I might have missed a couple things but that's the jist of it.
On my dust cover it says do not remove they are permanently sealed and lubricated.
CY98Cobra said:
damn..... :bash: Should have done this when the rear end was sitting on my garage floor...... :bash:
Im having the problem with the rears. If I keep this turd, I guess Ill see if the brake shop will do it while their putting the new calipers on. :shrug:
Might have some new rotors/calipers/tires for sale. Im not sure.
Might have some new rotors/calipers/tires for sale. Im not sure.
WhiteDevil said:
That is true, you shouldn't remove the dust cover. That is unless you are replacing the hubs/bearings. There is no need to except for that reason.
30 mins to jack it up.
Jack the car up. Have a beer. Remove the tire. Have a beer.......
Jack the car up. Have a beer. Remove the tire. Have a beer.......
Users who are viewing this thread
