What radiator to handle twin turbo setup??

[toomnymods]

Planning on upgrading the cooling system on my car before I add the twins. Might as well do this the same time as I upgrade the oil pump gears.. I'm not intrested in spending 900 bucks for the FRPP racing radiator as I believe it's just overpriced and probably doesnt do anything diffrent than the 350-400 radiators will do.
Which do you guys perfer?

 

[hitmix300]

I have future twin plans and never thought up upgrading the radiator. It definitely isn't something mentioned very often. I already have a thermostat and plan to get the mmr head cooling mod. That was about as far as I was planning to take the cooling system.

Subscribing for feedback

 

[toomnymods]

For just 1/4 mile passes and occasional flooring im sure the stock would suffice. But i intend to drive the car like it was intended. Since its not my daily if its moving its getting some work . Hehe

 

[CSG]

From my experience it is not needed on the street.

 

[CPRsm]

In excess of 1200rwhp and haven't needed anything but stock, even in Tx so far.

 

[JUIC3D]

In the heat and humidity of a Florida Summer (95* and 80%+ humidity), I was seeing slightly higher coolant temps than I really preferred--225-235 cylinder head after a full pull. While that's not overly hot considering the outside ambient temps and load on the motor, I opted for the boss radiator and 170* thermostat which brought the temps down to a steady 205-210 even after a full pull. The size difference in the 2 radiators is really staggering. Try as I might, I cannot get this car to run hot anymore.

I don't think it's necessary persay but I like that my temps stay rock steady now, regardless of how hot it is outside and how hard I'm pushing the motor.

Just my $.02

YRMV

EDIT: I don't even have my fan coming on until temps get over 200 which I have yet to even see. I like that

 

[hitmix300]

Do you mind sharing the part number JUIC3D?

After checking tousley they show the same part number for a boss radiator versus gt radiator. I searched 2013 model year.

 

[JUIC3D]

Do you mind sharing the part number JUIC3D?

After checking tousley they show the same part number for a boss radiator versus gt radiator. I searched 2013 model year.

If you searched a GT Track pack then it will be the same part number since those cars have the boss radiator and boss oil cooler.

I bought mine directly through Steve@Tasca but here is the American Muscle part.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-boss-radiator-1112gt.html

 

[hitmix300]

Yeah I didn't search track pack. You know those stupid oem search tools aren't specific worth a darn. Thanks for the link man!

Now that your new mustang is an auto, what are you doing for the transmission cooler?

 

[JUIC3D]

Here are some comparison pics with the stock GT radiator and boss.

 

[JUIC3D]

Yeah I didn't search track pack. You know those stupid oem search tools aren't specific worth a darn. Thanks for the link man!

Now that your new mustang is an auto, what are you doing for the transmission cooler?

I made some brackets for the trans cooler when I swapped everything over.

 

[hitmix300]

Thanks for the info again. The pics shock the heck out of me man. This will definitely be going on the wish list!!

 

[JUIC3D]

Thanks for the info again. The pics shock the heck out of me man. This will definitely be going on the wish list!!

No problem at all. I think there might be slightly cheaper alternatives but I love using OEM parts whenever I can.

 

[toomnymods]

One of the main concerns i have with oem radiators is the most crucial part of it is plastic. Doesnt take much to dryrot it and have cracks.
Ill probably end up going with a fluidyne as it has 100% aluminum construction and is a triple pass unit and only 470 bucks vs 800 for the frpp one

 

[benzopyrene]

I was reading about radiators a while bacd remeber a bunch of peeps saying the CSR ( think thats it) is a good one. I believe they were on steeda website...price was reasonable. I havent upgraded my yet but lanning on it to help with the extra hot texas heat and humidity when I go FI in a couple months.

 

[Torchy]

One of the main concerns i have with oem radiators is the most crucial part of it is plastic. Doesnt take much to dryrot it and have cracks.
Ill probably end up going with a fluidyne as it has 100% aluminum construction and is a triple pass unit and only 470 bucks vs 800 for the frpp one

Good point on the plastic. I have Hellion Twins on my 2013 GT and I put a Fluidyne in mine. Glad I did, in Vegas with the A/C on and in the middle of traffic on the strip the temps can go up pretty easily (ambient temps on the strip are 10-15 degrees across the board higher). With A/C on just cruising it could get up to 230 cyl head temps. Across the board my temps are 10 degrees lower with it. Also the car is more resistant to wanting to sky rocket in stop and go traffic with AC on. That's one underrated stat is how quick the temps come up when your putting the car through the ropes (IE: AC on in 115 degree heat on the strip with 100,000's of people and concrete, heat retaining, buildings around you.)

Temps stayed lower for longer with the Fluidyne. Eventually they will creep up if you leave the A/C blasting but won't hit the peak the stocker would. Obviously the environment you drive in is a huge factor. Used to live in Dallas and I could see similar situations here as there.

 

[JUIC3D]

^ good post. Here in the florida summer where humidity is 80% and temps get up to 105, even with ac on, I had no issue keeping the engine cool. It's amazing what a little extra volume and 10* cooler stat will do.