Yeah, Bassani exhaust systems are exceptional and fit well. How do you like the midpipe, sound wise?
What did you do to your Cobra today?
- Thread starter Wynn
- Start date
305/40 18 MT ETs
I think that's the widest 305 I've ever seen lol
Haha I'll get a pick from the back for ya. I think the angle makes it look wider than it is.
It's pretty nice. With the slp mufflers it's got some crackle to it. But highly impressed with the fitment and 0 leaks so far.
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Looks great!!!! (Clean that gas tank cover)
Haha yeah I'm on it! Funny how the camera makes it appear filthy when it looks clean in person.
I'll be giving it a final detail in the coming weeks before it takes it's winter nap. Will also be pulling off the TF wheels and throwing my old Saleens on it for the winter.
I guess the tire just runs wide but it looks great. How has she been running? Hopefully great!
Not bad at all. I still get a very small oil spot on the driveway after I park it. Not sure what I can really do about it though. Its a low mount turbo, so I think oil just pools there with the car shut down.
I did install a 1 psi check valve on the oil feed line, but still get the small oil spot.
Hope you can get it figured out but glad to hear thats the only trouble she's giving.
Yesterday I straightened out the FR500 wheel I installed. It was ever so slightly off and driving my OCD (CDO lol) insane. Good to go now though.
I also installed a new drivers side mirror, as the old one was rattling around and loose. If you have the mach460 system, you don't need to pull the door panel completely off. Just pull the door pull section and then reach up and disconnect the electrical connection. Then, remove the tweeter grill and unbolt it, separate the 460 housing and very gently pull the housing away from the door while pulling the pigtail. It's kind of a bitch since the pigtail goes between the door steel and the housing but it WILL slide past it. You need to pull a good amount. Anyhow, it was less time than pulling the panel and risking damage to the panel.
Finally, replaced the trunk struts. I can't believe I put this off for so long. Those worn out struts made the trunk just a huge pain to use. Took about 2 minutes to replace them. To be fair, the struts have dropped in price a huge amount compared to when I looked last.
So now, just waiting on TMI seats to get finished, prolly gonna be F'ing January. Other than that, repaint the car due to rock chips and clear coat peeling.
I also installed a new drivers side mirror, as the old one was rattling around and loose. If you have the mach460 system, you don't need to pull the door panel completely off. Just pull the door pull section and then reach up and disconnect the electrical connection. Then, remove the tweeter grill and unbolt it, separate the 460 housing and very gently pull the housing away from the door while pulling the pigtail. It's kind of a bitch since the pigtail goes between the door steel and the housing but it WILL slide past it. You need to pull a good amount. Anyhow, it was less time than pulling the panel and risking damage to the panel.
Finally, replaced the trunk struts. I can't believe I put this off for so long. Those worn out struts made the trunk just a huge pain to use. Took about 2 minutes to replace them. To be fair, the struts have dropped in price a huge amount compared to when I looked last.
So now, just waiting on TMI seats to get finished, prolly gonna be F'ing January. Other than that, repaint the car due to rock chips and clear coat peeling.
You're not alone as I need to replace mine on my 300zx and I know it won't take long but I just keep using a prop rod over and over.
You can get those for like $12 a piece at Rock Auto lol.
Last time I checked on trunk struts, they were something like $30-40 each. It's been a long time though. I saw them for $30/set and jumped on em. I can skip energy drinks and snacks at work for a week and make that up, lol .
Changed the oil for the first time today without BR30 break in oil. I went with conventional Castrol GTX 10w30. The builder recommended me using conventional for the first real oil change, and running it for 1000 miles. Then I can go to synthetic if I wish.
Also replaced the VSS while I was under the car. My speedo/odometer stopped working a couple weeks ago. I was also having an issue with the car stalling when coming to a stop with the clutch pushed in. I wasn't sure if it was in the new tune or not.
The VSS fixed the speedo/odometer, and after a quick run the stalling issue seems to be gone, but time will tell for sure.
*How do you guys change the oil filter without spilling oil on the rack? My car is especially difficult, the hotside is right by the rack.
Before the new build, I just used a paper plate to divert the oil to the drain pan, but its not that easy now.
Also replaced the VSS while I was under the car. My speedo/odometer stopped working a couple weeks ago. I was also having an issue with the car stalling when coming to a stop with the clutch pushed in. I wasn't sure if it was in the new tune or not.
The VSS fixed the speedo/odometer, and after a quick run the stalling issue seems to be gone, but time will tell for sure.
*How do you guys change the oil filter without spilling oil on the rack? My car is especially difficult, the hotside is right by the rack.
Before the new build, I just used a paper plate to divert the oil to the drain pan, but its not that easy now.
Maybe foil? Hard to tell without seeing it.
100% use a piece of heavy duty tin foil. If you just bend it into a makeshift funnel it'll save having to wipe the steering rack boots off after an oil change
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