What are realistic weight differences between Foxbodies and SN95's

Jroc

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2007
Messages
7,900
Location
SC
People always talk about how light a Foxbody is compared to a 94-04 Mustang. I've heard things like "around 1000 lbs less than a 03/04 Cobra" and "a Foxbody only needs around 350 hp to hang with a 500 hp 03/04 Cobra", etc. I would like for these claim to be true as I'm looking for a new(to me) roller to swap my drivetrain over to, but I got to call BS on a Foxbody with any kind of options weighing much less than a similar SN95 car.

I was reading on the IE the other day and some guy claimed his mostly stock 90's model fox GT weighed around 3,400 lbs without him in the car. I work with a guy claim his gutted notch with a roll cage, sfc's, a bottle in the trunk, and boltons with sticky tires weighs around 3,320 lbs without him in it. These are not weight savings compared to SN95 cars. I understand that scales can be off, but damn mofo's need to calibrate their scales because they seem to be off alot!

Some Manufactor weight claims and maybe some car magazines claims:(they may all be manufactor claims IDK)

87 GT - 3,270 lbs
89 no frills LX hatch - 3,022 lbs
90 optioned out LX hatch - 3,166 lbs
93 Cobra - 3,255 lbs
94 GT - 3,258 lbs
99 GT - 3,242 lbs
01 Bullitt - 3,273 lbs

I'm asking this here because I would think RR's would know facts on this more than other Mustang peoples opinions. Would there be a gain in performance by swapping my drivetrain in a late model Foxbody GT as opposed to a SN95 car? I mean I love a Foxbody, and they do feel very fast for their HP, but it would be harder, more involving, and more expensive to do right. The stock chassis is looser, the control arm, and knuckles/spindles aren't as good, Foxbodies don't have ABS. With a SN95 I can use my C/C plates, folding mirrors, brakes will bolt right up, my Cobras Kmember should place the motor in the right spot in a 94/95 car, interior will swap over much easier, holds more rubber, etc.

I guess I would rather do a Foxbody swap, but I can't really justify the extra aggrovation that comes with it over a 94-98 car unless I could see noticable gains in performance. I'm not really feeling a 94-98 car, and good Edge chassis are harder to find and seem to command a little bit more $ than I'm wanting to pay.

Not trying to rant. Just trying to figure out what I ought to do. I'm currently looking at a 91 GT roller, and a 94 v6 roller and am having a hard time making up my mine.
 

99COBRA2881

Piss on Fox Sports1
Established Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2003
Messages
6,307
Location
Kansas
Lightest Mustang ever built with a V8 is the Fox body LX notchback. 5.0 w/ T5 weighs in around 3100 lbs IIRC, I used to have an 87 notch 5.0 AOD, I know I weighed it, just finding where and on what board I posted the weights is the tricky part.

A notch with a 306, tubular K and some weight redux is still a car I want to own someday.

Wait for a notchback to come along for sale and swap everything over to it. JMHO.
 
Last edited:

Jimmysidecarr

Semi user friendly
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
14,395
Location
Spring, Texas, United States
Lightest Mustang ever built is the Fox body LX notchback. 5.0 w/ T5 weighs in around 3100 lbs IIRC, I used to have an 87 notch 5.0 AOD, I know I weighed it, just finding where and on what board I posted the weights is the tricky part.

A notch with a 306, tubular K and some weight redux is still a car I want to own someday.

Wait for a notchback to come along for sale and swap everything over to it. JMHO.

Or if your IRS is not trashed use a 4cl notch. They won't have and you won't need an 8.8 stick axle. If you need the axle then a 5.0 car would be best.

Some of the crazy light weights you may see are notch race cars that have been stripped out really well, have Lexan or no glass, no window mechanisims, some have removed door crash beams because they have roll bar side bars, and some are seam welded, which does add some weight back.
 
Last edited:

David Hester

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2002
Messages
1,072
Location
East Tenn
SCCA A/Sedan car must weigh 3080 with driver.
In impound my last race with it, mine weighed 3092 with me and 6 gallons of fuel left in the tank. I did have one race at Nashville a couple of years ago, I was actually light by 4 lbs- 3076. Forgot to refuel before I went out (22 gallon cell and I would normally put in 10 gallons to do qualifying/race 4-5 gallons per session. Gas was my ballast. Had run 8 gallons out.) They let me pass because of =/- tolerance on the scales. They hadn't been certified in awhile.
That would make a '87 Notchback Fox body road racer weigh 2900 ish with about 1/4 tank of fuel- 22 gal fuel cell.
Knock off 6 lb/gallon and it was under 2900, maybe 2870 lbs with nothing but oil/ water.
At one time, I had 80 lbs of lead and extra fuel to make the 3180 we had to weigh one year.
BTW no Lexan -Glass windshield, side windows and rear. No glass in the doors, crash bar is, though.

A Sedan mustang

Oh, The car sold last year, my webmaster hasn't changed.
 
Last edited:

Jroc

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2007
Messages
7,900
Location
SC
Thanks for the replies guys.

Do you know what the weight difference is between a notch and a hatch? Also what does a SN95 race car with the same weight reduction mods as the Foxbodies y'all are talking about weight?
 

Jimmysidecarr

Semi user friendly
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
14,395
Location
Spring, Texas, United States
Thanks for the replies guys.

Do you know what the weight difference is between a notch and a hatch? Also what does a SN95 race car with the same weight reduction mods as the Foxbodies y'all are talking about weight?

Not only is there some valuable info in this 95 SN95 for sale thread... you may find the car and the incredible package to be just to good to be true.

I assure you it is legit, this guy is HIGHLY respected in the road race/track community, and this car is a good price considering the components and attention to detail, and that fact that it is COMPLETELY DIALED IN!!

A text book example of a car with all the right stuff!

Corner-Carvers Forums
 

Jroc

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2007
Messages
7,900
Location
SC
Not only is there some valuable info in this 95 SN95 for sale thread... you may find the car and the incredible package to be just to good to be true.

I assure you it is legit, this guy is HIGHLY respected in the road race/track community, and this car is a good price considering the components and attention to detail, and that fact that it is COMPLETELY DIALED IN!!

A text book example of a car with all the right stuff!

Corner-Carvers Forums


It won't let me see it unless I register, and its not letting me register because my email address is freemail or something like that. :shrug:
 

Jimmysidecarr

Semi user friendly
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
14,395
Location
Spring, Texas, United States
It won't let me see it unless I register, and its not letting me register because my email address is freemail or something like that. :shrug:

Copy and paste...

I want to sell my very well prepped and well sorted out 1995 Mustang GT autocross and track day car. Car has never been crashed and the body is straight and true. All modifications and maintenance work was performed by a certified master technician with over 30 years experience (me). Car was street driven in Florida for several years but is not presently tagged or insured. I removed the A/C system and Mach 460 sound system for weight reduction, but retained the heater and a full interior. It presently weighs in at 3180# on the scales.

100-0017_IMG_2.jpg


Sebring-SVTOA-08.jpg


GlennForester.jpg


Car is extremely well balanced on track. It handles well and has excellent brakes. It was dynoed at 320 RWHP/324 RWTQ in 2006. I’m sure it is down from that a bit by now and could probably use a new set of valve springs. The car could be a rolling showroom for Maximum Motorsports products. I lost my records of how much I spent on the car, but it was well north of $25K when my computer crashed and I lost those purchase records. I would estimate I have $30K in it not including any labor. I have quite a few spare parts for it too.

ASKING $14,000 OBO

I could also make a package deal if anyone is interested in an air conditioned 24' Featherlite trailer to haul it in.

Contact by email gforester at cfl dot rr dot com

I probably have too many modifications to list but I will try.

FRONT SUSPENSION/STEERING

MM Front K-Member
MM Standard Offset Tubular Arms with Delrin Bushings
MM Strut Tower Brace
MM Coilover Kit w/425# Hypercoils
Koni DA Struts
Aluminum Offset Rack Bushings
Mustang Bullitt Front Stabilizer Bar
2000 Cobra R Rack
98 Mustang Spindles
UPR Bumpsteer Kit
ARP 3” Wheel Studs

REAR SUSPENSION

MM HD Torque Arm
MM Road Race Adj Aluminum Lower Control Arms
MM Coilover Kit 250# Hypercoils
MM Adj Rear Stabilizer Bar
Koni DA Shocks

DRIVELINE

Tremec TKO-600
Pro-Motion Shifter
Pro-Motion Blueprinted Valeo Clutch
McLeod Dual Friction Disk
Ford Racing Aluminum Driveshaft
Detroit Tru-Trac Differential
Moser 31 Spline Axles
ARP 3” Wheel Studs
Ford Racing 3.73 Ring & Pinion

ENGINE, COOLING & EXHAUST

Standard Bore 5.0 Liter Engine
Stock Forged Pistons
Edelbrock Performer Heads
Crane/Cobra 1.7 Roller Rockers
ARP Head Bolts
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake
Edelbrock SN95 Intake Elbow
Ford Racing 65mm Throttle Body
C&L 76mm MAF
C&L Cold Air Intake
Ford Racing 24# Injectors
Crower 15512 Hydraulic Roller Cam
Ford Racing Double Roller Timing Set
Crower Valve Springs/Retainers
Ford Racing Windage Tray
Ford Racing SFI Crankshaft Damper
UPR Billet Aluminum AIR Pump Eliminator
Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator
Hooker 1 5/8” Ceramic Coated Long Tube Headers
Modified BBK H-Pipe
Edelbrock 2.5” Performer RPM Exhaust System

WHEELS/TIRES/BRAKES

Full Set CCW 17x10.5” Wheels
Full Set 95 Cobra R 17x9” Wheels
Full Set NEW Nitto 275-40-17 NT01 Tires
Full Set USED Hoosier 275-40-17 Tires
Brembo 4 Piston Front Calipers
Hawk Black Racing Pads
Front Brembo 13” Rotors
Need For Speed Brake Cooling Ducts
SS Braided Brake Hoses F&R
Brembo Cobra 11.65” Rear Rotors
Hawk Black Racing Pads

BODY/INTERIOR

Cobra R Cowl Hood
Cobra R Antennae Delete
Cobra Front Bumper/Fascia
Saleen S-281 Rear Spoiler
Corbeau Forza Racing Seats
Autometer Dash Pod
Autometer Mechanical Oil Pressure & Water Temp Guages
Kirk Racing Products 4 Point Roll Bar
5 Point Racing Harnesses
Fabricated Carpeted Rear Seat Eliminator Kit
 

Ryan

It's Not Your Concern
Super Moderator
Joined
Nov 19, 2000
Messages
18,032
Location
OHIO!
Lightest Mustang ever built is the Fox body LX notchback. 5.0 w/ T5 weighs in around 3100 lbs IIRC, I used to have an 87 notch 5.0 AOD, I know I weighed it, just finding where and on what board I posted the weights is the tricky part.

A notch with a 306, tubular K and some weight redux is still a car I want to own someday.

Wait for a notchback to come along for sale and swap everything over to it. JMHO.
Incorrect. 85.5/86 SVOs tip the scale at 3065 w/o Driver. 84/85 IIRC are about 30lbs lighter.
 

Jroc

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2007
Messages
7,900
Location
SC
Copy and paste...

That is an extremely nice car, and a great looking valve for the mods, but its out of my price range at the moment. Great looking buy though. It seems that SN95's really aren't as heavy as there made out to be.

I remember years ago when I was a kid not even drive talking with people claiming that the SN95 car were not good, and that the 93 Mustang were the last good year because of the weight increase in 94. That was back in the mid to late 90's. It even seems that even the magazines dwdicated to Fords/Mustangs use to flame the Fox4's for their weight increase. :shrug:
 

Jimmysidecarr

Semi user friendly
Established Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Messages
14,395
Location
Spring, Texas, United States
That is an extremely nice car, and a great looking valve for the mods, but its out of my price range at the moment. Great looking buy though. It seems that SN95's really aren't as heavy as there made out to be.

I remember years ago when I was a kid not even drive talking with people claiming that the SN95 car were not good, and that the 93 Mustang were the last good year because of the weight increase in 94. That was back in the mid to late 90's. It even seems that even the magazines dwdicated to Fords/Mustangs use to flame the Fox4's for their weight increase. :shrug:

Some one is going to get a hell of a deal on that car!!
That mod list is all top shelf and all targeted prefect!:rockon:
I wish I could afford a second car.:(
 

gcassidy

One more lap!
Established Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2003
Messages
9,649
Location
Silver Spring, MD
O/P, what are you looking to do with the car that finding the best weight possible matters?
Track car? race car? mental excersize? Just asking because my car is currently heavier than it left the factory from all the steel added in rollbar, bracing, etc, and I've been having a blast with it for years!
 

fivestangs

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2006
Messages
550
Location
in the burbs around New Orleans
FWIW, I have a Fox ('93 hatch) that I got for a great price (read: free)...if I were going to pay for a body to turn into a track day car, I would get a SN95 or new edge for two reasons: first, they're already 5-lug and converting to the Cobra brakes is a breeze and two: they have much bigger wheel wells (compared to a fox) so fitting 275s (or larger) all the way around is *usually* not an issue (vs doing it on a fox).
 

Jroc

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2007
Messages
7,900
Location
SC
O/P, what are you looking to do with the car that finding the best weight possible matters?
Track car? race car? mental excersize? Just asking because my car is currently heavier than it left the factory from all the steel added in rollbar, bracing, etc, and I've been having a blast with it for years!

Mainly a streetcar, but I wouldn't mind trying out some autocross or something since it will no longer be my DD. I'm much more interested in making a Mustang turn well than I am making one launch hard.
 

David Hester

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2002
Messages
1,072
Location
East Tenn
Streetcar that isn't a daily driver?
You probably won't be able to get down to 2900, as mine didn't have anything in the doors, just skin and doorbar. No lights, except taillights, also most wiring removed, too. but did have wipers. No heater box, or A/C. Also only one aluminum seat and belts.
Did have cage, fire bottle and Cool Shirt cooler in it, though.
Also when you start talking light weight SVO's you also lose some cylinders, of course. Apples to oranges.
 

MFE

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2005
Messages
2,227
Location
Phoenix
These discussions bring out the worst of idiots on boards all over, but the fact is, the published factory curb weight for a stripper notchback foxbody 5.0 was around 3000 depending on year. Load in automatic transmissions and all the other goodies and the weight went up from there, but even the heaviest GT convertible was never much over 3400.

IIRC 3300-3400 is about what SN95 GT 5-speeds weigh but I don't have the published numbers.
 

mdoan

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2006
Messages
407
Location
Houston, TX
If you are swapping over your equipment (and doing the work yourself), I wouldn't even consider doing a fox. They're great if you start with them and upgrade with fox parts, but it is astonishing how much interconnectability Ford built into the mustang from 94-04.

Parts for older cars are more difficult to track down, and being able to bolt in 03/04 parts into a 97 is a no-brainer for me. Not to mention Ford experimented on our cars throughout the years, so going aftermarket isn't always necessary if you have an SN95 - Ford has already done the engineering/reliability work to make higher-quality parts available. Example: I just ordered an 03/04 Cobra-specific steering rack - with improved ratios, valving, and feel - to replace my 97. It's a 100% bolt-in, as good as any aftermarket power steering setup, and I don't have to deal with the headaches brought on by aftermarket reliability issues.

Our cars are far more "modular" than most give them credit for, and it has made keeping mine running so much easier than it could've been. I say go with the SN95 and don't look back; 94-98's are still very light pre-IRS, it's not difficult at all to get down to 3100lbs and lower, and you can still have most of the factory street amenities.
 

Jroc

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2007
Messages
7,900
Location
SC
If you are swapping over your equipment (and doing the work yourself), I wouldn't even consider doing a fox. They're great if you start with them and upgrade with fox parts, but it is astonishing how much interconnectability Ford built into the mustang from 94-04.

Parts for older cars are more difficult to track down, and being able to bolt in 03/04 parts into a 97 is a no-brainer for me. Not to mention Ford experimented on our cars throughout the years, so going aftermarket isn't always necessary if you have an SN95 - Ford has already done the engineering/reliability work to make higher-quality parts available. Example: I just ordered an 03/04 Cobra-specific steering rack - with improved ratios, valving, and feel - to replace my 97. It's a 100% bolt-in, as good as any aftermarket power steering setup, and I don't have to deal with the headaches brought on by aftermarket reliability issues.

Our cars are far more "modular" than most give them credit for, and it has made keeping mine running so much easier than it could've been. I say go with the SN95 and don't look back; 94-98's are still very light pre-IRS, it's not difficult at all to get down to 3100lbs and lower, and you can still have most of the factory street amenities.

Yeah I'm looking at a SB 04 Mustang v6 that has a flood title to swap everything over to. I would love a Foxbody, but feel that in the long run it would be alot easier and cheaper to just use a SN95 Mustang.

The 03/04 Cobras powersteering rack is much better than any other pre-05 Mustangs factory steering rack that I've drive. It may not be better than a Cobra R's, but IDK.(someone correct me if they're not unique to them, but I think they are) Another piece I highly recommend is the Terminators factory steeringwheel. Its very good. I keep my old FR500 steeringwheel from my old 99 GT, but like the Terminators factory steeringwheel a lot better so I desided not to change them out.

If I were to do a Foxybody I would what to go with a manual steering rack, but then I'd have to convert it to manual brakes, and from my understanding a lot of people don't like them on a streetcar
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread



Top