Weld-in torque box re-inforcements for 98 cobra

Snagmaster

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Who makes the best weld-in torque box re-inforcements for the 1998 or 1996 on up Cobra?.

My Cobra is getting a set of MM weld-in subframe connectors and the Kenny Brown "X" subframe to jacking rail pieces installed this fall, I also want stout torque box plates installed at the same time.

I've seen many pics of different types out there but just can't decide as I have zero experience with them, the car will not be raced by me but I'm giving the car to my son later on and I'm sure he'll take it to the track, as such I'm doing the work now so he won't break the car before making the decision to have them installed too late.

Any drag/road racers out there with a favorite?

Thanks
 

98 N/A 4V

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In my opinion you don't need the re-reinforcement boxes. I am still running the stock boxes with 415rwhp and hitting it at 6000rpm on 28" slicks.

All I did was have a welder put a bead all the way around the stock boxes for both upper and lower since they are just spot welded from the factory.

-Mark
 

Snagmaster

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First, is that your car with the fronts in the air?

Second, that's a neat idea and I had not thought of that, I only wanted to do this as I've heard that aftermarket upper control arms are hard on the upper boxes and can start cracks due to the stock types ability to flex taking most of the strain.

I have the Whiteline single adjustables and they are hell for stout, I didn't feel the need for spherical bushings as I'm not a road racer, I just don't want cracks later on.

I have a Lincoln SP-125+ welder but I'm too rusty to do them myself, did you have to remove the arms prior to welding?, and did you run a bead on the inside of the box?.

I wish the rears were the same gauge as the front control arm pockets, I wouldn't even worry then.

Thanks for your insight on this.

Mark
 

deadernie

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+1 on what 98 N/A 4V said. Getting those seams welded will help big time.

I've got the KB sub frame kit on my car with the jacking rails and love them. I painted mine before hand and touched up whatever they had to take off afterward.
 

98 N/A 4V

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First, is that your car with the fronts in the air?

Second, that's a neat idea and I had not thought of that, I only wanted to do this as I've heard that aftermarket upper control arms are hard on the upper boxes and can start cracks due to the stock types ability to flex taking most of the strain.

I have the Whiteline single adjustables and they are hell for stout, I didn't feel the need for spherical bushings as I'm not a road racer, I just don't want cracks later on.

I have a Lincoln SP-125+ welder but I'm too rusty to do them myself, did you have to remove the arms prior to welding?, and did you run a bead on the inside of the box?.

I wish the rears were the same gauge as the front control arm pockets, I wouldn't even worry then.

Thanks for your insight on this.

Mark

Yes that is me in the drivers seat. 60' was 1.51 in that pic. I didn't remove the control arms. But put it on a lift and had the guy put a bead all the way around the boxes.

-Mark
 

Snagmaster

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Thanks for the reply, I'll have mine done this winter when it goes in for the subframe connectors, I finished the car and she rides very stiff now so the subframe work is a given, with the suspension/brake work and the Pilot Super Sports it has become the best handling car I've ever owned, I have no idea how hard you can shove it into a corner but it's beyond my skill level to find out now.

Scary good
 

cbrown9064

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I make 465 to the wheel, don't drag race it and was getting twisting in the lower boxes. Just got the lower ones from LMR. They bolt and weld in. Easy install and problem solved.
 

Snagmaster

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465 to the wheels?, wow, in a car this small I can imagine sideways is the norm, she must be a handful sometimes.

I'd go for that much power but at 57 YO I just don't have the need any longer, the car is so nice I want to hand the keys to my Son in that condition, if I start building more power I know I'll be handing him a worn out car if my past is any indication.

But it'd sure be fun!

I'm saving for a 2012 on up GT to go nuts with next year, those little 281 CID motors are great but a 302 has much better power stock and lots of potential.

Thanks

Mark
 

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