weak dyno numbers

Venom25

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To day i had my 01 Cobra dynoed for the first time. I have the following mods below and the number were not as expected. I was looking at 300+ but my top numebrs were 288.4 rwhp and 289tq. I was like wtf! My numbers were fine up to the 5,000 rpm range where the power just drops about 10 on hp and tq. and then the power starts to go up at the pace it is supposed to and peaks at 288, which means that if it were to maintain the power increase like it is supposed to it would of peaked at 300+ plus for sure. I am running rich with the air/fuel at 14.5 at 3000 rpm range and then it goes to 12.1 all the way through that sorry ass 5000 rpm range when it goes down to 11.1 and the power goes down. I had my headers installed monday and just today the check engine light went on, could that be part of the problem? The shop said to change the spark plugs and get rid of the check engine light with a trip to the dealership or a custom tune chip. My car blows white smoke through the exhaust at WOT and when i turn the car on when it is hot. It smokes a tad on idle. Could this problem be all together? Any advice would be appreciated. Maybe my engine is not burning fuel properly, the smoke sux.
 

ROSENDO SANCHEZ

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Take your car back to the dyno on a day that is not too humid. Houston has had high humidity these days and I bet that was a factor in your dyno numbers.
 

Venom25

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What about the smoke, could my plugs be wrong or is the car running a little rich, enough to smoke when i get on it. I know about the mac long tube theory but the car runs good and even with the power loss at the 5000 rpm range it is quick. If the engine was damaged wouldn't the my car run a little crappy? The loss is costing me the 300 rwhp range.
 

brad65ford

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You mean to tell me that you dyno your car before the mac Long tubes and you had 300 rw and now after the Mac long tubes you got 10 rw less and now it's blowing smoke! Man what the f***. Boy, I really don't want to install mine Mac long tubes. Also, the check engine light is causing some power loss! The computer knows somethings wrong, do you have MIL elemantors?
By the way how does the car sound with the long tubes, louder?:thumbsup: Please tell me, was it worth it, would you do again?:beer:
 
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raider187

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I'm doing a ATI install right now, had my car Dynoed last week. See sig! I have a set uf MAC LT and H Pipe w/ cat that need to be installed, I don't think I will be installing them.

I received the H pipe and headers from a friend when I bought my S/C. They both have around 100 miles on them. I'm probably going to sell them and go with another brand,
 
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Venom25

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I never had my car dynoed before, but i figured it would be around the usual 270-278 range stock. I have that power loss on the graph when i hit the 5000-6000 rpm range righ when my air/fuel goes down. The air/fuel is supposed to be maintained on a straight line correct? And the smokw has that gas burned rich smell to it. I put my hand on the exhaust while someone mashes it and my hand only smells like combustion and my hand does not have that black powder that is supposed o happen when oil is being burned. Should i just disconnect the egr valve, do i need it?
 

raider187

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Originally posted by Venom25
I never had my car dynoed before, but i figured it would be around the usual 270-278 range stock. I have that power loss on the graph when i hit the 5000-6000 rpm range righ when my air/fuel goes down. The air/fuel is supposed to be maintained on a straight line correct? And the smokw has that gas burned rich smell to it. I put my hand on the exhaust while someone mashes it and my hand only smells like combustion and my hand does not have that black powder that is supposed o happen when oil is being burned. Should i just disconnect the egr valve, do i need it?



Hmmm... I'm not that proficent at tunning yet... I'm just getting into this myself. I believe that with a chip and the proper tunning equipment some problems can be overcome. I leave this question open to the more expericed members on the board. They should be able to lend the "correct" advise.

-Rick
 

Venom25

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Check it and see, finally got the scanner up.



dyno%20sheet.jpg
 

brad65ford

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Thought you guys would like to read what Mac emailed me.


Its not the headers it’s the motor, fords motor cant handle the extra
velocity the long tubes create, the headers work too well, the cobra
motor 98-00 was not even producing the correct amount of power that it
was claiming which caused a recall.

-----Original Message-----
From: brad
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2002 6:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Mac Long tube Headers on all 99-01 Cobra's

To whom this concerns, We are having problems with your company's
Mac's Long tube headers for Ford Motor Company 99-01's cobra 4.6 32v .
After installing oil consumption greatly goes up, large amounts of smoke
from exhaust and power loss become apparent. This by far is unfair to
the consumer, motors are being ruined because of your product. What
action are you doing to prevent this from happening again and from the
damage done. We are guessing to what is the problem and the consumers
are focusing on quality control (left over welds in primary tubes) and
design errors (flow and or EGR pressure/location). Here are some of the
links other many people frustrated with Mac products and their clams to
never buy again.

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=167953
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=69522


:chicken: :chicken:
 
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tmhutch

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Quote:

"Its not the headers it’s the motor, fords motor cant handle the extra velocity the long tubes create, the headers work too well, the cobra motor 98-00 was not even producing the correct amount of power that it was claiming which caused a recall."

Wow. If the moron who wrote that letter doesnt convince us to avoid Mac products then were all hopeless.
 

raider187

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:lol:
Originally posted by brad65ford
Couldn't have sayed it better myself tmhutch

:beer:

-- Brad65Ford
I'm sure some people have the ATI P1SC on this board... I could use the help. I'm doing ok so far, but it's slow going... PHP called me today, the Injector Harness Adapter are in, WOO HOO. Now I can finish the upper intake, and all that remains is the intercooler. Which looks like a real pain in the butt. THe ATI manual has diagrams and partial directions spread on a few different pages. You have to go back and forth nothing flows in their manual. :cuss: I hope to have it completed this weekend, keeping my fingers crossed!

Rick
 

brad65ford

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raider187, I got to ask where and how much? I've seen them for 3850. But I'm not sure what else I would needed. Like a fuel pump, or chip? What would you say its total price will be. Crazy Horse want's 7200 for Vorteq s trim w/ intercooler install and dyno tuned with superchip. I have a local guy that does Covettes which hav never done Mustangs except for 5.0's, no modular stang tho. Their working on a price for me using Procharger p1sc, with dyno tuning, and most likely no chip (sucks). What do you think.
 

raider187

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Originally posted by brad65ford
raider187, I got to ask where and how much? I've seen them for 3850. But I'm not sure what else I would needed. Like a fuel pump, or chip? What would you say its total price will be. Crazy Horse want's 7200 for Vorteq s trim w/ intercooler install and dyno tuned with superchip. I have a local guy that does Covettes which hav never done Mustangs except for 5.0's, no modular stang tho. Their working on a price for me using Procharger p1sc, with dyno tuning, and most likely no chip (sucks). What do you think.


I got a really good deal on my ATI. I paid 3650 + 125 for shipping for a total of 3775. I bought it on eBay, the kit had 50 miles on it, so it was basically new. Here is what I purched for $3775.00

ATI Procharger P1SC w/ 3Core IC and a 6-PSI pulley (Chip Came w/ KIT)

*42lb injectors
*Lightning MAF
**Mac Long Tubes
**Mac H Pipe w Cats
** ARP Hardware for Headers
*Phantom gages (Fuel Presure and Boost)

I had to purchase new mounting hardware for S/C and Intercooler about $70.00, Injector Harness adapters 130.00, and My chip was re-flashed 70.00.

** = Items not needed for S/C
* = Items needed in addition to S/C around $550.-$650.



I went with the Procharger, because it seemed like the easiest to install. I knew that the Manual sucked, and it does, but you don't have to modify the A/C, line or tap the oil pan(my deciding factor) I wanted to install the unit myself, so I went with the one that looked the easiest in my opinion.

They are both great units, and each have specific qualities that make them Great. You need to do what's is best for your situation, just take your time, you can't go wrong in either case.


:beer:


-Rick
 

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