Vortech not making boost

[HasteTheDay]

So the other day my car was getting into boost just fine. I was racing a saleen, missed 2nd, got back in to 2nd but my car didn't make any boost. I didn't hear anything bad. Blowoff valve still operates perfectly fine. I've checked/tightened all of the clamps, the belt seems tight with just a little give. The blower has no shaft play. The boost gauge reads 20 for vacuum, but will never get above 0 to make boost. Everything sounds completely normal, the car runs and drives just like it did before this happened. I'm stumped guys, really could use your input. Thanks.

 

[Stanger00]

Your bypass valve took a crap. You running a plastic Bosch until that cane in the vortech kit? If so then it most likely is the cause. You will not hear it leak since it the intake charge is being recirculated

 

[D1SC_GT]

He said that he's running a blow-off, and that its functioning correctly.

Does the car still pull as hard as it used to? Could be a problem with the boost gauge or lines

 

[HasteTheDay]

Stanger I have a tial 50mm which sounds like it still functions perfectly normal.

D1SC, it definitely feels like the car lost power, before I could spin 1st and 2nd, now I barely spin 1st. I wish it was as simple as the gauge not reading correctly but, like I said there's definitely a loss of power. I've read some places that the IAC could possibly be venting air? Ever heard of that?

 

[Stanger00]

I looked at OP past threads and only seen talk of a bypass valve.

I would track vacuum lines as well and insure they are all connected. Vacuum should be reading 17ish at idle. Unless, your gage always read 20 at idle.

 

[HasteTheDay]

My previous posts about bypass valves were when I had the vortech maxflow, I no longer have that, I have a Tial 50mm now. My gauge always read about 20 at idle.

 

[HasteTheDay]

Update: found a coupler that had 2 small tears in it, replaced it. Checked the tial bov to make sure the diaphragm was still in good shape, it is. No other leaks present. Tried a WOT run and still no luck, still not making any boost. I'm out of ideas.

 

[Stanger00]

Does the car stumble when you clutch-in after a WOT pull?

Have you taken the belt off to be sure the tensioner isn't broken? You should be able to tell if it has enough tension when the belt is off.

 

[HasteTheDay]

No it runs almost exactly like it's N/A, shifts fine, no stumbling at all. I'm not really sure how to take the belt off actually. I've seen the video SSGPate put on Youtube but I can't get a pipe wrench on the tensioner. Is there another way?

 

[Stanger00]

I used to use a few feet of thin rope. I used 50/50 cord since I had a bunch laying around after I got out of the air force.

The pipe wrench way really jacks up the pulley.

 

[HasteTheDay]

So what exactly did you do with the 550 cord? Wrap it around it and pull?

 

[2V Terror]

Pipe wrench is the way to go. If you do it properly you won't chew up the tensioner that bad. I've done it several times. Make sure the pipe wrench is at least 14". With that size you will have to open it all the way. And if you wrap some piping or tape around it then you won't chew up the tensioner. Even if you do chew it up, it won't affect the function of it.

If you're not making any boost at all then you either have a massive boost leak somewhere or the blower is spent or the belt is done. Or, if you missed second and over-revved and do not have a rev limiter on, then you might have some internal engine damage. Are you absolutely sure the engine is not missing or running rough? Can you post a video? Did you check all the vacuum lines including the lines that go to the EGR, the back of the upper plenum, the sensor that connects to the EGR, etc?

 

[Stanger00]

So what exactly did you do with the 550 cord? Wrap it around it and pull?

I wrapped between the pulley and tensioner. Then I wrapped the excess around a 3/8s ratchet for more leverage.

 

[Smokeurhonda]

Sounds alot like malfunctioning bypass valve. If you had a vacuum leak it would show up in drivability/fuel trims. Also you think you would at least make some boost. Internal motor damage wouldn't create a zero boost situation, and you would most likely have noise from the motor. Have you pulled vacuum from the bypass valve to see if there is any change?