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The Terminator
Terminator Talk
Voltage issues
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<blockquote data-quote="testorossa1989" data-source="post: 16180959" data-attributes="member: 122681"><p>So I had similar things going on that would drive me up the wall trying to figure out why my car's battery died after sitting for 2-3 weeks w/p parasitic draw. This is the conclusion...</p><p></p><p>The fan on low draws a f-ton of voltage when you're just sitting still in park testing it. If it kicks onto high, enjoy the worry feeling you get when you see that voltage number. Here's the reality, certain alternators function differently and with pulley setups people sometimes over/under spin the alternator. If you suspect a charging issue, you shouldn't be testing voltage since an alternator is a rectifier. You want to be testing for charging differences not DC voltage. The number changes all the time and only tested & true when a battery is removed and tested 24hr later. That being said, you'll see the numbers vary while idling. Remember your car is not really charging itself when it's idling as much as it's maintaining itself.</p><p></p><p>Finally, if you suspect power draw or other issues.... DO NOT Jump a fully dead battery & let the alt charge it up. All that does is put unnecessary excessive load on the alternator which will lead you to replacing the alternator before seasons over. It only takes 2-3 times of doing this practice before you start seeing a issue depending on modified your car is. The alternators have a difficult time as it is with the insane engine bay heat and load from the blower, don't add another thing to the list. Also, each battery charges differently!! I believe Red Top AGM type battery only have something like a 10v max static holding charge. Very each to kill a battery when you start playing with different type batteries. I suggest using a battery tender. Saves yourself the headache later </p><p></p><p>Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="testorossa1989, post: 16180959, member: 122681"] So I had similar things going on that would drive me up the wall trying to figure out why my car's battery died after sitting for 2-3 weeks w/p parasitic draw. This is the conclusion... The fan on low draws a f-ton of voltage when you're just sitting still in park testing it. If it kicks onto high, enjoy the worry feeling you get when you see that voltage number. Here's the reality, certain alternators function differently and with pulley setups people sometimes over/under spin the alternator. If you suspect a charging issue, you shouldn't be testing voltage since an alternator is a rectifier. You want to be testing for charging differences not DC voltage. The number changes all the time and only tested & true when a battery is removed and tested 24hr later. That being said, you'll see the numbers vary while idling. Remember your car is not really charging itself when it's idling as much as it's maintaining itself. Finally, if you suspect power draw or other issues.... DO NOT Jump a fully dead battery & let the alt charge it up. All that does is put unnecessary excessive load on the alternator which will lead you to replacing the alternator before seasons over. It only takes 2-3 times of doing this practice before you start seeing a issue depending on modified your car is. The alternators have a difficult time as it is with the insane engine bay heat and load from the blower, don't add another thing to the list. Also, each battery charges differently!! I believe Red Top AGM type battery only have something like a 10v max static holding charge. Very each to kill a battery when you start playing with different type batteries. I suggest using a battery tender. Saves yourself the headache later Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk [/QUOTE]
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