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2013-14 Shelby GT500
VMP Gen 3 vs 3R
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<blockquote data-quote="biminiLX" data-source="post: 16409730" data-attributes="member: 7795"><p>Man, a SLUG?! That’s an analogy I didn’t expect—must be one helluva slug <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>To the question on a stock motor, your limit is basically 750-800rwhp and the most important part—respect octane and RPM.</p><p>Run the best octane you can (ideal is E85, followed by unleaded race fuel, then fuel additives like Boostane in pump premium).</p><p>On the RPM, with bigger power I’d reduce redline from 7000 to 6500rpm, with starting your shift or shift light just after 6000rpm (there’s always mechanical shift flare of 300-600rpm).</p><p></p><p>Still, it is completely worth it. I just cruised my 1100hp 2014 and it’s amazing how docile it drives then with a press of the loud pedal it’s a beast trying to kill you!</p><p>My kinda fun, talk about some stress relief and excitement in this quarantine!</p><p>You’ll need a good drag radial (315/35/20 or even drop down to 18” for a 315/40/18), but that 750-800rwhp is the practical limit to have a max effort street effort.</p><p>Don’t feel you have to do it all at once, but pick a goal and choose parts that allow you to keep building to that goal, not having to buy the same parts twice.</p><p>Trust me, I’ve put 4 blowers and 4 rear gears in this car in 6900 miles.</p><p>But I can currently drive to the track with the AC on then run 9.50s at almost 160mph then drive home.</p><p>Well, best is 9.55@154 in True Street but I’m hoping to up the mph with the new 3R blower!</p><p>-J</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="biminiLX, post: 16409730, member: 7795"] Man, a SLUG?! That’s an analogy I didn’t expect—must be one helluva slug :) To the question on a stock motor, your limit is basically 750-800rwhp and the most important part—respect octane and RPM. Run the best octane you can (ideal is E85, followed by unleaded race fuel, then fuel additives like Boostane in pump premium). On the RPM, with bigger power I’d reduce redline from 7000 to 6500rpm, with starting your shift or shift light just after 6000rpm (there’s always mechanical shift flare of 300-600rpm). Still, it is completely worth it. I just cruised my 1100hp 2014 and it’s amazing how docile it drives then with a press of the loud pedal it’s a beast trying to kill you! My kinda fun, talk about some stress relief and excitement in this quarantine! You’ll need a good drag radial (315/35/20 or even drop down to 18” for a 315/40/18), but that 750-800rwhp is the practical limit to have a max effort street effort. Don’t feel you have to do it all at once, but pick a goal and choose parts that allow you to keep building to that goal, not having to buy the same parts twice. Trust me, I’ve put 4 blowers and 4 rear gears in this car in 6900 miles. But I can currently drive to the track with the AC on then run 9.50s at almost 160mph then drive home. Well, best is 9.55@154 in True Street but I’m hoping to up the mph with the new 3R blower! -J [/QUOTE]
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2013-14 Shelby GT500
VMP Gen 3 vs 3R
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