Vette Guys: C5 or C6
- Thread starter RedVenom48
- Start date
2005+? C6 should start to come down in price, and HP is so much better.
Depends on how long you want to wait.
Then again we do not know what the govmnt will do with sports cars scrapping and electric vehicles mandates.
I want a chevy sports car before I die mainly because my dad (RIP) was a chevy guy.
I feel like I owe him..at least that is my excuse ;-)
I don't give a shit about the old white guy with a corvette crap.
Depends on how long you want to wait.
Then again we do not know what the govmnt will do with sports cars scrapping and electric vehicles mandates.
I want a chevy sports car before I die mainly because my dad (RIP) was a chevy guy.
I feel like I owe him..at least that is my excuse ;-)
I don't give a shit about the old white guy with a corvette crap.
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The C6 with the LS3 is probably the way to go, it was a little later in the life of the C6.
The earlier C6, LS2's had harmonic damper issues (they would start to squeak and fall apart). A fluid damper is the absolute way to go, but a reasonable amount of work is involved in getting it in... Far less (if any really) LS3 dampers had this. The C6 also had heated seats. The C6Z shocks is a super cost effective upgrade to all C6 cars and makes a big difference. C6 targa top is very cool!
These cars are very reliable and strong (sans damper issue) and have a great reputation of reliability.
My buddy said it best who had both: The C6 is to the C5 what the C5 is to the F-body. A big jump up, especially in interior, but this is entirely subjective. He had a C6Z... that car is a BEAST, obviously has an issue with valve guides, but i have heard this is blow out of proportion.
The C5Z is a "raw" car and if you want a true driver's car, this is it. I was going to purchase a C5Z after looking hard at C6s as well. Went with a Terminator instead (soon).
The earlier C6, LS2's had harmonic damper issues (they would start to squeak and fall apart). A fluid damper is the absolute way to go, but a reasonable amount of work is involved in getting it in... Far less (if any really) LS3 dampers had this. The C6 also had heated seats. The C6Z shocks is a super cost effective upgrade to all C6 cars and makes a big difference. C6 targa top is very cool!
These cars are very reliable and strong (sans damper issue) and have a great reputation of reliability.
My buddy said it best who had both: The C6 is to the C5 what the C5 is to the F-body. A big jump up, especially in interior, but this is entirely subjective. He had a C6Z... that car is a BEAST, obviously has an issue with valve guides, but i have heard this is blow out of proportion.
The C5Z is a "raw" car and if you want a true driver's car, this is it. I was going to purchase a C5Z after looking hard at C6s as well. Went with a Terminator instead (soon).
I appreciate the heads up on the damper for the LS2. Maybe something an ATI damper could also fix?
Im in no rush, probably end of the year at the earliest. Im soooo close to having the Shelby paid for. Ill keep my fingers crossed that C8 production ramps up. Maybe that will get more C6's into the market at reasonable prices, lmao
I looked back at some notes I had... 5-6 hours for damper install plus the damper itself (seal and crank bolt). The damper is about $400, so this is not an inconsequential amount! ATI seems preferred over all others (and it's rebuildable) without having to remove it entirely from the car (if I remember correctly... check into that though). That's a savings and something you can do yourself.
Agreed about the C8 and drop in prices. If the column lock issue is fixed (likely will be on the car you look at) it would be a very tough choice between an electron blue C5Z or a C6 (though I really like the C5 body over the C6). There is also a thing with the early C5 ABS module (see link below), that and the column lock are the only serious issues to watch for an a C5. Mechanically incredibly reliable. If you want a cool read, buy the book "All Corvettes are Red"... super cool read on how the C5 almost wasn't.
Congrats on paying off the Shelby... debt free lifestyle is worth every single sacrifice and until you are there (house, cars, loans) one cannot imagine the freedom from "the grind". Keep on keeping on brother.
.... maybe you can answer for me, what is the "real deal" with the Shelby motors and the "rods" are those engines at their peak capability factory, or when you mod them the rods go? What is the real story... been hearing lots on this. Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Here are a few helpful sites which are invaluable for the Vette:
LS1Tech.com - GM LS Performance Forum
corvetteforum.com
corvetteforums.com
C5 Secrets & Computer CODE Llist
c5 secrets un-covered - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
2002 C5 Corvette | Ultimate Guide (Overview, Specs, VIN Info, Performance & More)
- Official C6 Corvette Registry 2008 orvette Order Guide
How to Buy C5 Corvette Z06 - Chevrolet Corvette Z06 Buyer's Guide
Corvette DIC Codes
1999 CORVETTE EBCM/ABS REMAN/REPAIR SERVICE | eBay
Thanks for the great info! Happy to help with the connecting rods in depth with a PM later. Short answer is that the rods in the GT500 are reliable up to about 650-700 rwhp. 700 to about 750 it starts to become iffy. 750+ it's a crapshoot and not advisable. I've heard of some letting go at 750, some run hard past 850rwhp. Keep in mind, this is supercharged hp. Turbo power would probably be reliable to around 800- 850 to the wheels.
ATI is the only aftermarket damper that I would ever use...**** all the other ones out there...ATI or leave it the **** alone.
I vote C5. I hate the C6 interior. Neither one is stellar by today's standards but the C6 center console/dash is too flat and boring.
I own a C5Z with full exhaust/cam/intake/coilovers. Daily driver/date night car/autocross toy it does it all.
I own a C5Z with full exhaust/cam/intake/coilovers. Daily driver/date night car/autocross toy it does it all.
Id be lying if I didnt say that I have been giving a hard look to Gen 2 GTS'. There was a black with silver stripe, tan interior car listed in Texas that I was drooling after for a bit but it went quick at 40K. The next closest is at 50K, some poor GTS in Los Angeles thats had horrible hoot rat wheels applied and a cheezy fast and furious wing bolted to the back. Listed for $50k.... just too rich for my blood.
Then theres the cost of mods and well, I need a car to daily. Id feel far less guilty racking up miles on a Corvette than I would a Viper. But holy shitballs would that be an amazing experience!
Don’t need no boost on a C6Z when heads and cam get 600rwp/530tq through a stock intake.
Its retarded how much power to the wheels a heads/cam Z06 can make.... I could always auto swap one and get a see through roof panel installed, lol! No shit, I must bet getting old... The idea of a glass roof targa and A6 makes me happy.
I have seen Ported Heads/Cam/exhaust LS3's making about 500 to the wheels. Deck the heads for more compression and that could get to 550 with the right cam.
Ive been eyeing A6 Grand Sports to be honest. Just wish the A6's came with the Z06 differential like the Manuals did. But apparently the A6 output spline is the same as the Z06 so it bolts right up to it.
Well you want a auto for the wife to daily.
C5 Base/Z51
C6 Base/Z51
Getting in and out of a C6/C6 would be the same issue, IF you see getting in/out of a C5/C6 is an "issue".
C5 Base/Z51
C6 Base/Z51
Getting in and out of a C6/C6 would be the same issue, IF you see getting in/out of a C5/C6 is an "issue".
Just a great opportunity to do some squats!
It certainly lower than the Mustang, but nothing terrible.
Good info here, boys. My bro-in-law just offered me his '02 Z for an absolute steal. Electron blue, has a catback, but original otherwise. His braud insists that he sell a car before he buys a pontoon boat.
The C5/C6 is pretty bulletproof. Aside from some having damper issues, a common issue is a "sticking/dead" clutch pedal after repeated high rpm shifting. Heat and clutch fluid get into the fluid and become annoying.
However, if going auto that's not a concern.
After going to a TICK adj clutch MC and a smaller 10.5" SPEC clutch and aluminum FW, zero clutch issues. A remote bleeder is a MUST.
Be mindful any clutch/drive train work is not longer a DIY job at home without a lift. It's a labor intensive job to do.
However, if going auto that's not a concern.
After going to a TICK adj clutch MC and a smaller 10.5" SPEC clutch and aluminum FW, zero clutch issues. A remote bleeder is a MUST.
Be mindful any clutch/drive train work is not longer a DIY job at home without a lift. It's a labor intensive job to do.
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