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Valve Cover Removal

Discussion in 'How-To' started by Red Poison, Mar 7, 2010.

  1. mrose75

    mrose75 Active Member Established Member

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    OK, I used this guide and went the brake booster route to get my Valve Covers off. And it worked fine when done in order. Somehow alcohol helps to distort the order in which things should be done.....who knew? Anyhow, I went ahead and did the engine mount method on reassembly and it's WAAAAYYYYY easier. Be sure to loosen the dipstick and anything else that my be binding.... With help from member xchamp I got it done. He sent me some pics of how he did it and then I took some pics, because that's the only reason I didn't go that route from the beginning was lack of pics. So he's my contribution to the forum. Thanks again to xchamp.

    Here is what it looked like with the engine jacked up:
    a3b87831da9fdb18137a44e9488a58f6_zps4f11b3f1.jpg

    This is a shot of the engine mount nut loosened to the end of the threads:
    0822a13349486c03971f68d68e4787c0_zps823bd639.jpg

    This is a shot of the 2 X 4 on the engine block. You can see the engine mount bolt in the background near the steering colum:
    e43ca50a1228f90d1aae509666df01b7_zps1ec66d60.jpg

    Where to place the 2 x 4, between these two bolts.
    d59a58a81cc560681fd588a631edc989_zpsd6e8ea30.jpg

    Here's yet another shot showing the wood placed between the clutch cable and the oil pan:
    ac7540de376511c9ae5974fed494b431_zps9350fd15.jpg
     
  2. mikeracing

    mikeracing New Member Established Member

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    merrillville in
    i am having a night mare of a time i tried going up with the engine as high as it would go and cant get the valve cover off so i removed the motor mount tried to go all the way down and NOGO
    also had to remove my off road h pipe since it was hitting the floor booard
    so in the process of removing the booster now wtf
     
  3. hotcobra03

    hotcobra03 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Location:
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    i find unbolting booster and moving to side took mins..taking out battery vs jack on engine..booster will swing back to battery area..valve cover is wide open..it will jump off..

    hint..pull battery first..long tools will go in straight to unbolt lower bolt on booster and 1 on mc to booster..inside same long tool deep 13mm than swivel..go blind over clutch switch,,nut is there start by hand before adding ratchet..undo brake rod to booster..om mc..there is a bracket on frame holding lines..jack behind drivers wheel just to lift body..above drivers wheel long tool will reach straight to bolt,mc will hold up but with lines loose it can swing if needed..its that easy..
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013
  4. mikeracing

    mikeracing New Member Established Member

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    alright man after work today i will finish removing the brake booster and hopefully it will be all set
     
  5. 006

    006 Slow mustang :( Established Member

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    I've tried reading this over and over again and I have ZERO clue wtf you said.

    Please don't drink and post instructions at the same time :cuss:
     
  6. QuickV8

    QuickV8 ▪█───────█▪ Established Member

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    is it possible to just tape the covers off and paint them? without going thru the hassle of removing them. i was thinking of just using hi temp paint (copper orange with metallic, the can at autozone/advance,etc) then wrinkle black on the blower. will any primer work?
     
  7. hotcobra03

    hotcobra03 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    that would be puff and post..

    1-remove battery from car

    2-from battery area use a long extension on a ratchet to get lower bolt for booster on firewall,
    brake master cylinder will need to be unbolted from booster,1 bolt on master can be done the same way..

    NOTE DO NOT REMOVE ANY LINES FROM MASTER CYLINDER OR HYDRO-BOOSTER..

    3- from inside car 3 nuts need to be removed on booster ..2 bolts you can see,3rd you cant..its the top left,its being blocked by clutch pedal switch,,
    however,if you use a deep socket with a swivel thats not part of the socket,
    it will go on nut with no problem..you might have to fish for it,,holding extension will work better than trying to balance from ratchet handle..once started by hand,,hold tool firm and add ratchet to loosen..you can get your fingers around left side of switch when going back together,

    4- remove rod from brake pedal..has pull pin..
    NOTE SWITCH ON LEFT SIDE OF BRAKE PEDAL,this is a switch to deactivate cruise control..it doesnt need to come off ,but will need to be reset,,

    easy .when all assembled

    remove plastic rod from brake pedal..gently push rod into switch until it clicks,

    reconnect to brake pedal,,move only brake pedal in or out to fit rod back on..

    5-seperate brake master cylinder from brake booster,

    than pull booster from firewall and it will SWING/move and will reach to where battery goes,,tie it to hold...

    6- brake master cylinder will be by its self being supported by the brake lines..

    you will bump it..there is a clamp 12 inchs down on frame rail..bolt is on outside of frame inside wheel well.

    you cant see it until you raise body..if you use a jack on body and lift you will get a gap between fender and top of wheel enough to see bolt and get to it easy..this will allow master cylinder to move in any direction needed to work without any damage to lines..you will need a little give..:pop:
     
    Stokestack likes this.
  8. 006

    006 Slow mustang :( Established Member

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    Excellent mon!

    May you have a thousand non-virgins :rockon:
     
  9. clate

    clate Member Established Member

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    honestly everyone it was easy if you just pull the master cylinder and booster. just set them to the side. the driver side was cake. i had more trouble getting the passenger side off and on lol. damn heater lines and wires suck
     
  10. svt99rag

    svt99rag Indy Blue Oval Established Member

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    This is what I did and was able to do it with no problems.
     
  11. SYMach1

    SYMach1 IRS FTW! Established Member

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    A
     
  12. 03cobra#694

    03cobra#694 Want to play a game? Staff Member Super Moderator

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    b
     
  13. brian97cobra

    brian97cobra The Infractionator Established Member

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    c
     
  14. SYMach1

    SYMach1 IRS FTW! Established Member

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    Sorry for the butt post lol
     
  15. 03cobra#694

    03cobra#694 Want to play a game? Staff Member Super Moderator

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    No harm, no foul.
     
  16. THunterW

    THunterW SGTSVT & SVTSGT Established Member

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    I removed the brake master cylinder and hydro-booster for the driver's side. It wasn't too big of a pain, just dropped wrenches a lot trying to get a few of the hard to reach bolts. Underneith the dash wasn't too bad either, just really freakin' uncomfortable laying down in there with the seat still in. I had some issues getting the passenger side to come loose too, the CoP harness kept getting in the way or something. The whole thing start to finish probably took me around 6 hours, and it was definitely worth it. See avatar pic.
     
  17. Blowncobe

    Blowncobe New Member Established Member

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    What do you recommend covering the engine with if you're gonna have them powder coated? A sheet then spray them with something before install?
     
  18. SVT_Troy

    SVT_Troy Well-Known Member Established Member

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    A towel, trashbags...doesnt really matter.

    My car sat like this while I had a bunch of stuff coated

    IMG_2147.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2014
  19. styszka

    styszka New Member Established Member

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    Jacking the drive side was much easier for me! thanks for the info
     
  20. mrose75

    mrose75 Active Member Established Member

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    I took them off using the brake booster method. That was a pain in the ass. I reinstalled them using the jack method and it was way easier. If I ever decide to re-PC them with the pretty snakeskin hydro dipping, then I'll be going that route.
     

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