Urgent: Need alignment specs for MM coilovers w/MM Kmember and lower control arms

[Fast GTO]

Shop is trying to get the caster camber dialed in but is having issues because the LCA's are longer than stock.

These are the numbers I got from a friend who had the MM CO's but not the control arms.

Front Caster: Left 4.35 Right 4.28
Camber: Left -.8 Right -.83
Toe: Left 1/16 Right 1/16 TOTAL 1/8

Rear Camber: Left -.75 Right -.95
Toe: Left 1/16 Right 1/16 TOTAL 3/32


These numbers are not working with their machine.

 

[mu22stang]

These numbers are conservative for such a modified suspension, but within Ford's range for stock suspension. I'm not sure what the problem is. What do you mean it isn't working with their machine? They (alignment shop) essentially have to throw the go/no-go specs for a stock car out the window and just pay attention to the actual readings if you are looking for something more aggressive. Over half my numbers are "in the red" when I get a track alignment.

 

[Fast GTO]

Yeah, I wonder if they are just having issues with their machine. The owner is very competent and used to be a mechanic for cars that would race on the ring. Their alignment machine is a bit old though.

I also went with the Hans racecraft shock tower brace...I'll post pics when I pic up the car.

 

[RDJ]

Are you using aftermarket CC plates? If not that is part of your problem. I don't see them listed on your list of mods

 

[mobius]

that alignment doesnt look that bad. you may want a little more camber. and as above you need c/c plates

 

[Fast GTO]

i have cc plates

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Are you using aftermarket CC plates? If not that is part of your problem. I don't see them listed on your list of mods

that alignment doesnt look that bad. you may want a little more camber. and as above you need c/c plates

If you don't have the MM caster/camber plates yet, the time has now arrived.
If you get serious about this track stuff, you will probably want to use two different alignments, one for the street(less neg camber) and one for track(lots of neg camber).

Depending on your track tire, fast SN95 Mustangs are running around 3 degrees negative camber, some more, some less.

In many cases due to production variations the chassis will limit the max camber on one side more than the other.

After installing the MM plates, flip the top plate to the negative orientation and push both sides to full negative and see where each side maxes out at.

There are things you can do like slotting the top strut to spindle holes in the strut only on the side that has less negative camber available.
A new top bolt would be advisable since it is going to need to be torqued correctly and I think(not sure)they may be torque to yield bolts.

One degree is an OK max neg street camber in most cases, you don't want a whole lot of neg on the street, unless your driving is very aggressive and is producing a lot of outside edge wear, but if you are getting inside edge wear you have too much negative camber.

Lots of positive caster is generally good to a point, since it is one of the few features of our suspension geometry that provides some camber gain.

 

[RDJ]

Maxium Motorsports provides a guide with their C/C plates that give the specs they should be set at. My 95 was set by a guy that does race cars and since I was autocrossing at the time he set them up for a 200lb driver with no passenger. did an excellent job too

 

[ac427cobra]

Is it possible your CC plates are reversed?! :shrug:

 

[Fast GTO]

well, got it all dialed in. went a little aggressive on camber so we shall see how the tires last while I am in DD mode.

With the solid steering rack/kmember/LCA's/RXT clutch it is like a completely different car.

That RXT is amazingly light......

 

[MFE]

If you simply measure and record how far the strut tops are from the fender edges, you can dial some camber back out of it for the street, then put it back exactly where it is for more aggressive driving. Or put more camber in it for the track, and put it back for the street. You don't need an alignment machine or a technician to do it.

 

[gmsux]

If the car isn't driven as a DD, leaving the camber at -2-3* should be ok. So far so good on my cobra...

 

[Fast GTO]

steering input is amazing, no slop and the car darts to where you point it.

The clutch is the biggest thing that has changed driving for me. Went with a light weight aluminum flywheel with the RXT. It engages at the very top of travel and requires 4 cylinder effort to engage which is a big difference from the spec 3 it replaced.

Not had it on the track yet.

Shop did a good job with the hans race craft brace. The brace is not long enough to fit perfectly on the shock mounts. Had to make some spacers to weld up to account for the length difference. Once we did that it fit fine and we painted it to match in with the trunk.