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The Terminator
Engine/Tuning
Upgrading cooling capacity on H/E
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<blockquote data-quote="MalcolmV8" data-source="post: 15793938" data-attributes="member: 8854"><p>It wouldn't be fair to say the heat exchanger alone is responsible for the cooling. The whole system has to work together as a whole. Plus my intercooler is modified from stock. This is how the inlet / out let looks stock.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1457914[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>I wanted a more direct flow in and out for maximum fluid speed. I also wanted larger capacity so I removed those and centered my inlet / outlets and used 1" ID connections. It looks like this now.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1457915[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>Combined with the dual 10" SPAL fans it's fair to say the heat exchanger sheds heat well. I plan to run a couple temp sensors this summer on the inlet and outlet and data log what sort of temp drop is occurring there.</p><p></p><p>I am by no means the pioneer here. Others have done the same and are running similar setups including the intercooler mod for flow, trunk mount tank and a very powerful pump.</p><p>The impressive thing is IAT 2 temps actually drop during WOT pulls. I've never seen anything like it. Meaning if your IAT2 is say 130 F and you go WOT it'll instantly drop to say 115 and then continue to drop another 4 or 5F through the pull.</p><p></p><p>Probably one of the more impressive ones I've seen is a guy in Hawaii who's car I tuned. He was running in very hot humid temps around 95F + and his IAT2 temps would be around 130 ~ 134 cruising. He's go WOT and it would instantly drop to mid teens and through the pull it would continue dropping. He'd see around 110 F IAT2 temps. He was on a 2.9 Whipple.</p><p></p><p>I've seen 3.4 Whipple cars with IAT2 of 88F in 60F ambients with similar setup. On the hit around 94F and by the end of the pull 88F.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>So I read the first two threads and then gave up. It was just people's comments or uneducated remarks saying a fan will block the air. Seems no one ever tested it.</p><p></p><p>I've done plenty testing and I'm telling you with absolute certainty that coolers benefit from a fan even at highway speeds. I don't claim to know 100% why but I have a theory it has to do with how the air splits around a car at speed. Not all the air is forced directly through the opening and through the cooler. It goes up and over the hood and under the car possibly creating low pressure areas that the air doesn't force through?</p><p></p><p>Not to long ago I ran into this again, tuning an auto swapped Cobra, 4r70w, the trans cooler was put right up by the grill opening for direct air. The owner was playing with this car on the highway racing it hard at triple digit speeds and guess what? that trans was over heating. So bad we had to pull off on the side of the highway. I wired up a fan which takes up the whole entire surface of the cooler which some would say blocks 90% of the air but guess what? Now that cooler was super effective and no matter how hard we beat on it the trans temp stayed nice and cool.</p><p></p><p>I have many other examples over the years. Time and time again it has been my experience that coolers / heat exchangers are so much more effective with a fan(s) even at highway speeds.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I've always found fans improve cooling, from tiny trans coolers that are barely larger than the size of the fan motor all the way up to the radiator.</p><p>Heck I once built a forged motor, turbo'd E85 honda for the hell of it. Those cars have tiny half size radiators and running it hard on the highways in mid summer heat the car's temps would slowly creep till it was getting to over heating and this is doing 70 to 100+ mph. I adjusted the ECU to keep the fan on even at highway speeds and boom problem fixed. Proves right there that even at very fast highway speeds the fan still pulls more air through than what it's been exposed to passing through the grill / bumper openings.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MalcolmV8, post: 15793938, member: 8854"] It wouldn't be fair to say the heat exchanger alone is responsible for the cooling. The whole system has to work together as a whole. Plus my intercooler is modified from stock. This is how the inlet / out let looks stock. [ATTACH=full]1457914[/ATTACH] I wanted a more direct flow in and out for maximum fluid speed. I also wanted larger capacity so I removed those and centered my inlet / outlets and used 1" ID connections. It looks like this now. [ATTACH=full]1457915[/ATTACH] Combined with the dual 10" SPAL fans it's fair to say the heat exchanger sheds heat well. I plan to run a couple temp sensors this summer on the inlet and outlet and data log what sort of temp drop is occurring there. I am by no means the pioneer here. Others have done the same and are running similar setups including the intercooler mod for flow, trunk mount tank and a very powerful pump. The impressive thing is IAT 2 temps actually drop during WOT pulls. I've never seen anything like it. Meaning if your IAT2 is say 130 F and you go WOT it'll instantly drop to say 115 and then continue to drop another 4 or 5F through the pull. Probably one of the more impressive ones I've seen is a guy in Hawaii who's car I tuned. He was running in very hot humid temps around 95F + and his IAT2 temps would be around 130 ~ 134 cruising. He's go WOT and it would instantly drop to mid teens and through the pull it would continue dropping. He'd see around 110 F IAT2 temps. He was on a 2.9 Whipple. I've seen 3.4 Whipple cars with IAT2 of 88F in 60F ambients with similar setup. On the hit around 94F and by the end of the pull 88F. So I read the first two threads and then gave up. It was just people's comments or uneducated remarks saying a fan will block the air. Seems no one ever tested it. I've done plenty testing and I'm telling you with absolute certainty that coolers benefit from a fan even at highway speeds. I don't claim to know 100% why but I have a theory it has to do with how the air splits around a car at speed. Not all the air is forced directly through the opening and through the cooler. It goes up and over the hood and under the car possibly creating low pressure areas that the air doesn't force through? Not to long ago I ran into this again, tuning an auto swapped Cobra, 4r70w, the trans cooler was put right up by the grill opening for direct air. The owner was playing with this car on the highway racing it hard at triple digit speeds and guess what? that trans was over heating. So bad we had to pull off on the side of the highway. I wired up a fan which takes up the whole entire surface of the cooler which some would say blocks 90% of the air but guess what? Now that cooler was super effective and no matter how hard we beat on it the trans temp stayed nice and cool. I have many other examples over the years. Time and time again it has been my experience that coolers / heat exchangers are so much more effective with a fan(s) even at highway speeds. I've always found fans improve cooling, from tiny trans coolers that are barely larger than the size of the fan motor all the way up to the radiator. Heck I once built a forged motor, turbo'd E85 honda for the hell of it. Those cars have tiny half size radiators and running it hard on the highways in mid summer heat the car's temps would slowly creep till it was getting to over heating and this is doing 70 to 100+ mph. I adjusted the ECU to keep the fan on even at highway speeds and boom problem fixed. Proves right there that even at very fast highway speeds the fan still pulls more air through than what it's been exposed to passing through the grill / bumper openings. [/QUOTE]
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