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The Terminator
Driveline
Update on TOB and retainer sleeve
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<blockquote data-quote="JoeNashville" data-source="post: 1421876" data-attributes="member: 14602"><p>OK guy, here's a reply from someone who has "been there, done that":</p><p></p><p>Don't put your wheel weights on the inside only.</p><p></p><p>The deal is, when a tire is manufactured, there is no way to evenly distribute the rubber across the carcass to a tolerance of less than one ounce per linear inch. If they did do that, then tires would cost WAY more than they do already. TRANSLATION: we all have to use wheel weights and techs to install and balance our rotating stock in the field, using both inside and outside weight. </p><p></p><p>The rubber in the very outer portions of the tire is even for the most part, but does vary not only from one side to the other radially but also axially. When looking at a mounted tire on your vehicle, the edge of the tire that you *can* see will have more/less mass than the edge you *can't* see. Hence, there is a wheel weight, approximately the same mass as the imbalance, on the opposite side of the wheel on the other side. Often, techs will even split the required weight across the rim axially. This results in an exceptionally well balanced tire.</p><p></p><p>So, if you ask the wheel weights to only be placed on the inside of the wheel then the tire will be somewhat balanced radially but may be totally imbalanced axially. The end result will be axial vibration (felt through the steering wheel or seat as a vibration depending on which end of the car the imbalance is on), and if left unchecked will result in prematurely worn wheel bearings and ball joints for the steering rack (worst case scenario). Axial vibration is from side to side (or roughly yaw if you fly an aircraft), while radial vibration is up and down. Radial vibration, when severe, makes the tire appear as if it is hopping down the road rather than rolling.</p><p></p><p>A very good way to balance without using rim lip weights is to balance exactly in the center of the rim. Check out sportbikes at your local powersports dealer and you would see what I mean...the rim weights are placed on the rim bead in the exact mass center of the rim. The weights are usually very small, and I have never had an imbalanced carcass even after a sportbike tire is well worn (sometimes I have to ride a while on a worn tire, they last around 8K on a sportbike with a sticky compound). However sportbike tires are much narrower than the the wide tires that we have on our Cobras, which brings us back to square one.</p><p></p><p>Add in the fact that some of the vibration problems that we have been having with our Cobras have been attributable to out-of-spec tire carcasses stock (i.e., the Goodyear F1s), and to balance a stock type tire with inside weight only could turn into a big problem.</p><p></p><p>So...the only way to balance without outside weights is to ask your tech to use inside the rim stick-on weights (stuck in the exact center of the rim, which would be difficult to achieve for a Ford tech). This should be 80-90% of what is really required, and will work for most of us that don't use our cars for the Silver State Classic. Hope this helps...</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="JoeNashville, post: 1421876, member: 14602"] OK guy, here's a reply from someone who has "been there, done that": Don't put your wheel weights on the inside only. The deal is, when a tire is manufactured, there is no way to evenly distribute the rubber across the carcass to a tolerance of less than one ounce per linear inch. If they did do that, then tires would cost WAY more than they do already. TRANSLATION: we all have to use wheel weights and techs to install and balance our rotating stock in the field, using both inside and outside weight. The rubber in the very outer portions of the tire is even for the most part, but does vary not only from one side to the other radially but also axially. When looking at a mounted tire on your vehicle, the edge of the tire that you *can* see will have more/less mass than the edge you *can't* see. Hence, there is a wheel weight, approximately the same mass as the imbalance, on the opposite side of the wheel on the other side. Often, techs will even split the required weight across the rim axially. This results in an exceptionally well balanced tire. So, if you ask the wheel weights to only be placed on the inside of the wheel then the tire will be somewhat balanced radially but may be totally imbalanced axially. The end result will be axial vibration (felt through the steering wheel or seat as a vibration depending on which end of the car the imbalance is on), and if left unchecked will result in prematurely worn wheel bearings and ball joints for the steering rack (worst case scenario). Axial vibration is from side to side (or roughly yaw if you fly an aircraft), while radial vibration is up and down. Radial vibration, when severe, makes the tire appear as if it is hopping down the road rather than rolling. A very good way to balance without using rim lip weights is to balance exactly in the center of the rim. Check out sportbikes at your local powersports dealer and you would see what I mean...the rim weights are placed on the rim bead in the exact mass center of the rim. The weights are usually very small, and I have never had an imbalanced carcass even after a sportbike tire is well worn (sometimes I have to ride a while on a worn tire, they last around 8K on a sportbike with a sticky compound). However sportbike tires are much narrower than the the wide tires that we have on our Cobras, which brings us back to square one. Add in the fact that some of the vibration problems that we have been having with our Cobras have been attributable to out-of-spec tire carcasses stock (i.e., the Goodyear F1s), and to balance a stock type tire with inside weight only could turn into a big problem. So...the only way to balance without outside weights is to ask your tech to use inside the rim stick-on weights (stuck in the exact center of the rim, which would be difficult to achieve for a Ford tech). This should be 80-90% of what is really required, and will work for most of us that don't use our cars for the Silver State Classic. Hope this helps... [/QUOTE]
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