Earico, Thanks for the link. I'm removing my Lfp h/e and was going to buy a stock unit. I'm running a killer chiller and the larger h/e is working against me. Looks like this company offers an exact replica of our factory h/e units..
Water to Air Radiator, 26X7X2"
I'll just have to fab up a bracket like you did and it'll clean up the front end.. My dream was always to eliminate the h/e brackets (such an eye-sore Imo)
Great Job!!!!
Just curious if you noticed a difference....any change in the efficiency of the KC with decreased capacity on yours? also any difference in IAT2's from the whipple to the TVS? :shrug:
the reason I ask, with my KC setup I saw lower temps at the end of a WOT run 1st-4th with the increased capacity of coolant.....I use to see a spike of near 110-115*, now I see a spike of around maybe 105 post run....granted it does take the system longer to recover to pre-run temps with more coolant to cool back down. I would estimate my setup may take a couple extra minutes at most..
many recommend the OEM H/E or deletion totaly for better efficiency, but IMO a bypass valve negates some of this loss by not passing the coolant that is chilled to the H/E seeing ambient temps higher than the fluid.
I wont delete the H/E just for the reason, if I have a AC failure, IAT2's are not going to go through the roof.
w/o the AC, my IAT2's go from low to mid 80's* to high 120's without even beating on it, I know this observation isnt accurate for real IAT2's unless your at WOT, but none the less 40* difference is substantial....:beer:
I appoligize OP for off topic post..