Tracing a vacuum leak with JLT intake?

FiveLeeter918

OK Performance Fords
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2011 GT A6

Car is pulling 5 degrees of timing throughout the powerband above 3500 rpms. Thought it was my tune, so my tuner sent me a revision thinking that it could have been due to the winter blend gas. Well, even with 3 degrees of timing pulled, still doing it. I had an old tune from another tuner that I had that was never modified per my data logs, and it is doing the same thing. The A/F is pretty close to what is being commanded, but timing is being pulley in a stepped configuration from 3500 all the way to redline.

I found a leak in my intake, caused by one of the screws on the MAF getting sheared off. Drilled it out and installed a new screw and now the car is only pulling 3.5 degrees. It's getting better, but still a bit too much for me to feel warm and fuzzy.

I am looking around for other vacuum leaks, but can't seem to find a diagram online to make sure I am checking everything. A JLT intake is the only mod I have on the intake side.

One thing I am thinking is that it could possibly be related to either the PCV or brake booster connectors that are drilled in. The brake booster fastener clip (yellow) broke when I removed the factory intake, and even though I replaced the clip, the fastener has about 1/4" of axial play. It's held on to the connector by the clip, but still seems loose and if I remove the clip, it will easily slide out.

Also, the PCV connector seems to pull out of the intake fairly easily. The hose connector is very tight, and while trying to remove it the connector on the intake itself came out of the grommet very easily.

Trying to figure out how much these should actually have, and if there is any way to tighten up the connection.

Also, if I wanted to check to see what vacuum I am pulling, where is the best place to hook up a mechanical gauge?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

69camaro...

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My JLT connections are sloppy as well, this is something i need to look into as well. My PCV running into drivers side valve cover, where it connects into the JLT is at a weird angle so it doesnt fit 100%. Also if you dont have the sound tube, check for pin holes or zip tie the plastic cap that deletes the sound tube on the JLT as well.
 

FiveLeeter918

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I already have a worm gear on the sound tube delete. I was thinking about wrapping the brake booster connector in electrical tape to try to seal it off. I broke the yellow clip off some time ago and fixed it with a clip from a fuel filter. I don't want to spend $70 on a new hose...
 

five.slow

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I already have a worm gear on the sound tube delete. I was thinking about wrapping the brake booster connector in electrical tape to try to seal it off. I broke the yellow clip off some time ago and fixed it with a clip from a fuel filter. I don't want to spend $70 on a new hose...

if you are gonna do that just get some shrink tape. we have 2" shrink take so im sure you could find some 1" or what ever will fit over the connection and then take a heat gun to it. it would seal better than tape. when electrical tape gets cold it doesnt stick for shit.
 

FiveLeeter918

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Oh I was meaning for a temporary check. If I were to do a permanent fix I'd hack the connector off and worm gear it too... lol.

Heat gun on a plastic hose doesn't sound too good to me...
 

orange_whiner

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You can also take off the air filter and plug or cap the inlet then pressurize with either a bike pump or mighty vac. This way you can have the car off and hear it for sure.
 

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