TKO600 Clutch Cable Problem - Help

01silverstang

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My 96' Cobra had a TKO600 and QuickTime Bellhousing installed by a previous owner. I wasn't happy with the BBK adjustable clutch cable setup, as it just didn't feel right. I had read that the adjustable cables weren't great, and that an OEM cable with any quadrant and firewall adjuster would be a big improvement. So I went that route, but it doesn't feel right either. I have to pry the clutch fork forward and inch to an inch and half to just get the end of the cable on the fork. I found a thread that advised that my old BBK Gripp Quadrant doesn't work with the OEM cable as the OEM cable is too short.

So I finally decided to spend the money and go with a Maximum Motorsports clutch cable kit with quadrant and firewall adjuster. Spent last evening installing only to find out that it was way too long even with the adjuster screwed all the way in... Very disappointed, tried to install the OEM cable which is shorter than MM, and it was still loose. Finally installed the BBK quadrant and OEM cable and gave up. Any ideas as to what is going on? Am I stuck with the current setup or an adjustable cable?
 

01silverstang

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not sure if this was a typo, but screwing the fw adjuster in (clockwise) loosens the cable. (makes it longer)

screwing it counter-clockise tightens (shortens) the cable

No not a typo, the instructions from Maximum Motorsports aren't great... they advise to screw the adjuster all the way in, but every YouTube video has advised to unscrew it about half way as it's easier to have it a little tight and loosen than to tighten it at the firewall.

I'm thinking if I try again with the adjuster unscrewed, it should work? Thoughts?
 

01silverstang

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Thread it out and you'll reduce any slack. Done.
Their quadrant ended up being too small, I used their cable and adjuster and the larger BBK single hook quadrant and got it figured out.

Didn’t have to thread it out as far, listened for ToB chirp and then threaded it out enough that the noise went away to put a slight preload on.
 

01silverstang

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Well after a couple hundred miles of driving the chirp returned, and on my most recent drive the clutch dis-engagement became so difficult I barely made it home.

I've reached out to a local Mustang shop and am waiting to hear back, hoping they can adjust/inspect everything.

In the meantime I'm trying to figure this out in my head. QuickTime Bellhousing should allow use of the SN95 clutch fork which I believe is being used, as the stock T-45 came with the car and is missing the clutch fork. The two variables right now are the specific type of McLeod clutch and the pivot ball. Currently with the cable off the clutch fork sits almost as far as it can go towards the transmission. So maybe depending on the type of McLeod clutch it needs a shorter pivot stud?

The funny thing is despite all of this the MM kit would have been too long as any adjustment would move the clutch fork close to the clutch making the cable length even longer than now.

Any ideas of what could be going on, or what to do until the shop calls back? If I had access to a lift, I'd be more apt to just drop the transmission and inspect everything myself.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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I do not recall seeing people talk about changing the length of the OE pivot ball until you start running a dual disc clutch.

once a TOB starts squeaking it's on borrowed time. You might be able to make adjustments to shut it up but it'll be a constant chase until it eventually fails.
 

01silverstang

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I do not recall seeing people talk about changing the length of the OE pivot ball until you start running a dual disc clutch.

once a TOB starts squeaking it's on borrowed time. You might be able to make adjustments to shut it up but it'll be a constant chase until it eventually fails.
I went ahead and scheduled an appointment at a local Mustang shop... Best case scenario I'm out a couple hundred bucks for a new quadrant and adjustment. Worst case, I'm out about $500 to have them drop the transmission and replace the pivot ball and throw-out bearing.

It bugs me that I can't seem to find from any of the manufacturers what specific parts should work. The only variable is single or twin disc clutch.

In order to get the clutch cable onto the fork I had to use a crow bar and put quite of bit of force to move the clutch fork forward. I don't want to preload the clutch to much and end up thrashing a thrust bearing on the crank... but if I didn't do that couldn't get the car into gear.... maybe I should just go auto lol.
 

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