Tire rubbing with rolled fenders!

Bdubbs

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Here's the question, if you look and take pics, does the offset appear the same on both sides, or can you see that it's sticking out further on the passenger side? If it appears even it could be your shock on that side.

To me it looks quite the same, but it's hard to tell if it's just a smudge off. I was also told once you make a lot more power the stock shocks and even some aftermarket springs can be less effective. Being the hp and tq can take out the spring rate.
 
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Woody6799

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depends on what you are most interested in accomplishing. I have rear springs for now and have no experience with the rear coils yet but I have noticed a lot of drag racing oriented guys go QA1 and the street level guys lean MM. Personally I plan on MM in the rear if I do them because I am strictly street driven and I run MM coils up front.
 

Bdubbs

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depends on what you are most interested in accomplishing. I have rear springs for now and have no experience with the rear coils yet but I have noticed a lot of drag racing oriented guys go QA1 and the street level guys lean MM. Personally I plan on MM in the rear if I do them because I am strictly street driven and I run MM coils up front.

Okay mine will be strictly street driven, May lean towards mm. I'm curious on ride quality with coilovers. Also what about ride height? I need to do some more research, but I'm assuming mm coilovers kits are not adjustable.
 
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Bdubbs

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Do you guys really think coilovers are the answer? I'd hate to spend the money and find out I still have tires rubbing.
 

R.D.P.

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Do you guys really think coilovers are the answer? I'd hate to spend the money and find out I still have tires rubbing.

Our cars are not engineered for coilovers. I think it works in the front, but the rear is a different ball game. There is a pic out there where the upper rear shock mount area tore away, literally tore away a big chuck of the metal. So if you do run them, you should also add a rear shock brace, which takes up trunk space.

I could see this happening on track launches, but it's happening just hammering on it in 2nd?

Here's an idea - mount the gopro to the front bumper of another car, set it to at least 60fps, have them right on your bumper when you go WOT in 2nd a couple of times. Play it back at half speed and see if you can see the passenger side rear dropping more than the driver side.
 

94slowbra1

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Do you guys really think coilovers are the answer? I'd hate to spend the money and find out I still have tires rubbing.

short answer no. like stated before, our cars are not meant for coilovers on the front or the rear. everybodys opinion is different though. can they be run yes but you would need some bracing to help stabilize the shock towers. not to mention they are noisy as heel in the rear. if you think the car is unenjoyable now, wait till you put coilovers in the rear
there is another issue somewhere. you run h&r race so you have a stiff spring already. could be a shock issue, could be a centering of irs issue or a wheel offset issue. shocks are an easy not too expensive upgrade and measuring the wheel is free. you have a little more sidewall than me but i have very minimal rubbing even with both kids in he back and im lower than you
i like the idea of the gopro on both side to see if it is squatting more the than the other. that should give you an idea of where to start. there are way to many cars out here that are as low as you or lower, as much power or more, just as wide wheels or wider that dont have these issues. so your combo should work
 

03' White Snake

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This is why I ordered my wheels at 10" for the rears. My fenders are rolled also, once in a great while I will rub on my back bumper, but not the fenders. I have race springs with no iso's, so I am a bit lower than you too.
 
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Bdubbs

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I have toyo r888 305/35/18 and I've run this exact tire size last year on a saleen 18x10 with zero rubbing. I know for a fact the passenger side has to be squatting more. Even without fenders rolled the drivers side never rubbed.

I'm at a loss with suspension on these cars and don't even know where to look. Is it worth replacing shock with new oem?
 

Bigc6428

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Why don't you try removing the spring and cycling the suspension with a floor jack and see exactly where it is rubbing? Maybe you just need to roll or trim in a different spot. It's kinda a pain in the ass I know but it is free and at least you will have a definitive answer as to what's happening.
 

Bdubbs

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Why don't you try removing the spring and cycling the suspension with a floor jack and see exactly where it is rubbing? Maybe you just need to roll or trim in a different spot. It's kinda a pain in the ass I know but it is free and at least you will have a definitive answer as to what's happening.

Could try, I've never messed with any suspension before. I mean do I need to roll fenders completely flush? My car isn't near lowered as many others.
 

Woody6799

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I had 335/30 on 10.5 on my old set up and 295/35 on 10 on my current set up. I rubbed on the old when the car was at highway speeds with a full tank of gas. I replaced my shocks with OEM and it didn't happen again, but I had 97k on it at that time. I don't think your shocks are the problem. I agree with others that your IRS is offset slightly to one side but there is not much I think you can do about that. I would do a rear coil set up with a stiffer spring rate. Then I would but in a shock tower brace to help absorb some of the structural strain, just like I did up front when I converted to coil overs. Then you can adjust your height until you get it right where it needs to be not to rub. Just my .02
 

Steve@TF

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its definitely not the offset of the wheels. i personally checked them before they went out and theyre the same fender flush offset we do for everyone.

i know 04sleeper mentioned before about being able to adjust the IRS when stuff like this happens. i dont recall how though. ill have to ask him to post in here.

i think you need to roll your fenders more as well. i know when we did mine we got them folded over like paper thin. and i still had some rubbing on one side. i think it was the driver's side on my car. and that was on an 18x10 with a 295 tire lol. 04sleeper told me back then that its common for the IRS to be out of wack but can be adjusted. also the camber as well. even just a little bit makes a big difference.

there's guys running the same wheels and offset on bigger tires, 335s, with no issues. i would hold off on the coil over set up for now. see if you can address the issue specifically. lots of experience folks on this forum that can give good advice. just might take a few days before they see the thread.
 

Bdubbs

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It might be hard to try and roll that fender anymore as the temps are only in the 50-60 degree range. I've been told to do it in warmer weather. This time around the rubbing actually looks worse after rolling the fender. Nearly 3/4 of the tire has rub marks. It's quite frustrating and I'm questioning if it really worth all the hassle.
 
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Blueline

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Brady have you checked the camber on the pass side? I breezed through this thread and don't know if you mentioned it. You may be able to get away with some more neg camber.

If you want we can trade wheels lol
 

Bdubbs

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Brady have you checked the camber on the pass side? I breezed through this thread and don't know if you mentioned it. You may be able to get away with some more neg camber.

If you want we can trade wheels lol

I had the camber adjusted in the right rear ever so slightly, because it was off a little. I'm trying to find the paperwork on it. I went off the recommendations on MM site.
 

Bdubbs

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Here's the alignment, I'm not quite sure what to look for.

IMAG1291_zpsszebp6go.jpg
 
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04sleeper

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Pull the wheel off and adjust this bolt "In" or "Out" depending on where you want the tire to sit in the wheel well. It will not affect tire wear and is necessary to achieve proper fitment with larger wheels.

22383742826_d732351feb_o.jpg


Hope this helps.
 

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