Timing Chain Tensioner

SLOWNED

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I think i may have a bad timing chain tensioner on my 1997 cobra. It makes this horrible rattle at the first start up of the day then slowly dies down. However, it rattles whenever its at 2000 rpm- 2500 rpm. It doesnt rattle anytime above that powerband or below it. Does anyone have a video clip or sound clip of a bad timing chain tensioner for these cars? Id like to confirm the noise before i shell out the cash for an expensive job like this.
 

Slow95Cobra

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how long does it make the slapping/rattle noise. if it is just a few seconds first thing in the morning, it is normal. oil pressure has to build for a second or two to tighten the tentioner. but i have seen the chain guides wear out, tentioners do go bad, but it will make the noise for a good while. what oil are you using?
 

SLOWNED

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Mobile 1 5W-30. It makes the rattle the first start of the day but also makes it from 2000rpm-2500 or so rpm. It will rattle throughout that band even if the motor has been running for a while. Anyone know where i can find a sound clip or something from someone with a similar problem?
 

Slow95Cobra

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the first start up rattle is just oil pressure building back up in the tentioners. usually only does it if they sit a few days.

but with it making that noise that long, i would pull the front cover and replace the the ten. and all 4 guides.
 
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my timing chain tensioner went bad, but I slacked and waited...My car was making a constant light tapping, at first I thought it was just a lifter tap. within a week or 2 it became so bad that the tapping noise would hurt your hears when the hood was up.

I ended up taking everything apart, and the driver side tensioner went bad, broke both the upper and lower guides in half, chain jumped a tooth or 2, and from the chain slapping so hard it broke off a chunk of the keyway/crankshaft. Literally had to pry the 2 timing chain gears off the shaft. Not fun! Fix it now before it becomes major like mine lol.

I hear that the 96-98 Cobra's are notorious for having bad chain tensioners. I would replace the 2 timing chain gears to a 1 piece while its apart....
 
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Slow95Cobra

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all in all, it sounds like you just need to take the cover off and take a good look. i would say its in the timing area
 

misterb

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There is a TSB on the tensioners- plus the parts have been upgraded.

I changed mine @ 85k- they were a bit ratty and the new pieces were better made.
 

SLOWNED

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I did, i had the cover off and checked both primary and secondary tensioners and they all looked brand spanking new with no slack in the chain. I just had the motor rebuilt about 2000 miles ago. The rattle is getting really annoying.
 

COBRA97SVT

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timing tensioner

when you changed your tensioners how did you do it? how did you keep the chain from moving? i have the ford repair manual and it says you have to take off the valve covers and use the tool to lock the cams in place. Theres an easier way right?
 

MouTine

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Hey friends... Is there any mileage limits or such dead-lines to timeing parts? When do I have to take care of something? How long these parts last? I have 124k miles on clock and nothing odd sounds.
 

OCSnk

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Found this on file hope this helps. Not my write-ups


Before you buy four tesioners and 32 valve tappets..$$$..Look in the direction of the passenger or driver side primary timing chain, usually its the passenger side one that dies if they die...To check the chain tension start by removing the valve covers or the valve cover where you isolated the noise and check the slack or tension in the chain..if there is some noticeable slack, your tensioner may have died..its always a good idea to pull both valve covers so you can compare...Also check the tension of the cam chain, Ive never seen a cam chain tensioner die, due to its non ratcheting design, but its possible the spring in the tensioner body could break..The lash adjusters are a bummer and do go bad, I found three bad tappets on the driver side head when I did a cam swap, which explained all the ticking prior to the cam swap. Upon removal the bad tappets, the plunger had absolutely no hydraulic pressure, you could actually actuate the plunger by shaking the tappet with your hand...You will have to remove the rockers (cam followers) to get to the valve tappets..you will have to remove valve covers to do this set the cam lobe at base circle and pop out the rockers that are at base circle and turn the crank to reset the remaining installed rockers at base circle and pop those rockers out, repeat this until all 32 or whatever head is producing the noise, so you may just have to pop out just 16..I use a flat head screwdriver to pop the rockers out and pop them back in.

If you find a bad cam chain tensioner in the head you’ll just have to pop the valve covers off but you'll have to pop the valve covers off anyway. If you have a bad timing chain tensioner the timing chain cover needs to be removed...Good-Luck...Duane V

=====================================================

Its the timing chain tensioner and it always seems its the passenger side one that fails ... What’s happening is the tensioner plunger doesnt pump up fully and the timing chain guide will bounce against the tensioner plunger, eventually it will get bad enough where the timing chain will start slapping against the chain guide...My advice change both the RH and LH timing chain tensioners, they are $70 each from Ford. All you have to do is remove the pulley accessories and timing chain cover, then remove the timing chain tensioner, submerge the new one in oil for about 30 seconds install it, torque down the two bolts to 22 ftlb, pull up on the timing chain guide and at the same time remove the plunger retaining pin from the tensioner body. Repeat this process on the driver side the only difference is you push down on the driver side timing chain guide...Its very easy to do...DA snake boy!!
 

Koval7887

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Help Me!!!...

both my chains have some slack. i only took off the the valve cover on the driver's side. i can't get the passenger one out yet. both primary chains have slack. even on the sprockets, i can lift a wiggle them a bit. my noise started as a tick. now its a knock. i hope to god that its in the upper end. it is dead silent at start up, then once it warms up, it knocks. its a deep knock at idle. as i rev it up, it sounds like a diesel car. it used to go away after 2500 or so, now its loud at EVERY rpm...could it be a tensioner? how much slack should they have if any? also, since the car is not running obviously, how do i know if the slack will go away once the oil pressure builds???...
 

qkslvr221

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OP, I have the same problem, and so do many others. My engine builder himself said that these engines are prone to ticks, and if your compression and driveability aren't affected, you shouldn't worry too much about it. He also thinks its a hydraulic lash adjuster causing the noise.

Might as well get those tensioners right if there's some slack, though!

whats the TSB never ever heard of it before?

+1

:shrug:
 

Tx_Diablous

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qkslvr221....your builder is full of Sh**...They are prone to knocks and ticks when something has gone wrong just like any engine. If it knocks....its a rod bearing...if it ticks for a second at startup...its ok dont worry....These engines dont Knock if all is working right.
 

qkslvr221

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qkslvr221....your builder is full of Sh**...They are prone to knocks and ticks when something has gone wrong just like any engine. If it knocks....its a rod bearing...if it ticks for a second at startup...its ok dont worry....These engines dont Knock if all is working right.

I really doubt that, and he wasn't talking about loud knocking, just valve chatter and light ticking sounds from HLAs and timing chains. These engines are more prone than the average SOHC or OHV engine to this sort of thing.

There's a big difference between a ticking sound and a knock.
 
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